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    There is a bumpy road ahead.

    I bought ERL 404K in November 2012, doesn't time fly, and drove it 100 miles home to Cupar in Fife. I noted at the time that problem areas were:

    Rot passenger side at base of 'A' post.
    Panel to wing joints front & rear.
    Hole corner of windscreen and nearside wing.
    Underneath not known.
    Boot lid & Doors need replacing.
    Wheel arches LOOK OK.
    Some restoration has been done.
    I would remove bumpers? Don't know what I meant.
    Respray in existing colour.
    MOT Expires 28th August 2013
    As I did not have space for it it was stored at a local garage over the winter while I built a leanto. I visited it regularly and problems while stored were tyres going flat and leaking float valves. Sometime in 2013 it was moved to the leanto and there it stayed for some time.
    In 2016 I started looking for someone to do the bodywork but two people came to see it but never got back to me which was a bit worrying. Eventually I found someone through a friend. He was only part time as he has a 'day job'. Sods Law he was looking for new premises so it was not until December 2016 that it was transported to the bodyshop.
    CM1.jpgCAR PORT.jpgPC100021.jpg
    That is the story so far. There will be lots of questions as I am converting it back to TV8.

    #2
    Lovely! The colour is great. Watching with interest!

    Paul

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      #3
      Please MK1 wheels.
      Good luck.
      Rebuild started expected September

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Aubrey Hawkins View Post
        Please MK1 wheels.
        Good luck.
        That is the plan but not the highest priority. Hub Caps will be a bigger problem.

        Comment


          #5
          I said that there would be silly questions. Will the Power Steering pump and the Alternator (A127 45) on the Rover engine fit the Triumph engine?

          I am waiting for some more shelving before I start to strip the triumph engine. I have 2 grey rear wing badges and one black one. The Black one had better chrome so I have swapped that to a grey one. Here's what I did with the grotty black one.P2250001.jpgP2250002.jpg

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            #6
            Bought some shelving from Lidl, thought it was my lucky day at £29.99. Got to admit you get what you pay for. Pressed steel, difficult to assemble, all joints needed loosening and shelving bending. Boltless it may be but easy assembly it was not.
            No excuse now for not starting to strip the TV8.

            Comment


              #7
              Engine strip is not going as planned. i can't turn the engine enough to align the timing marks. Kryten has suggested what to do. The tim has offered to drop in if he is in the area so I will await his visit.
              Meanwhile I have loosened the RH cylinder haed as per Mr Hayes. I have removed a cylinder head before but spent some time getting the percussion set up so it would not damage the threads. I managed to get one stud out and it was fairly clean. The second stud has sheared which is why you find me sitting hear writing this and having a glass of wine. Tomorrow is another day.

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                #8
                Well fast forward to September. My bodywork man has been ill then he had to move to another unit in the same complex as the neighbours complained. He started back on the Stag at the beginning of September. I eventually made it to the loocal meeting where the Co-ordinator offered me a Head removal tool. By now on the o/s head I had 2 studs out, 1 out so far and turning, one sheared at the top and one with the threads knackered where I had been using the 2 nut method. With the removal bracket fitted I managed to remove the head. The nearside was a bit easier as I managed to remove 4 studs with the 2 nut method. The last one, the middle one, sheared so removal bracket fitted and off it came.
                When the o/s head was removed the stud that was turning was sticking out about half an inch. I thought that it had stripped the threads in the block but they all seem to have about half an inch before they start. Is this normal? Bodywork is going well and once door and rear wing repairs are done it will start getting welded together.

                P9270001.jpgP9230004.jpg

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by peterrc View Post
                  Well fast forward to September. My bodywork man has been ill then he had to move to another unit in the same complex as the neighbours complained. He started back on the Stag at the beginning of September. I eventually made it to the loocal meeting where the Co-ordinator offered me a Head removal tool. By now on the o/s head I had 2 studs out, 1 out so far and turning, one sheared at the top and one with the threads knackered where I had been using the 2 nut method. With the removal bracket fitted I managed to remove the head. The nearside was a bit easier as I managed to remove 4 studs with the 2 nut method. The last one, the middle one, sheared so removal bracket fitted and off it came.
                  When the o/s head was removed the stud that was turning was sticking out about half an inch. I thought that it had stripped the threads in the block but they all seem to have about half an inch before they start. Is this normal? Bodywork is going well and once door and rear wing repairs are done it will start getting welded together.

                  [ATTACH=CONFIG]42065[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]42066[/ATTACH]
                  Hi Peter,

                  I'd say that is fairly normal, at least that's what happened to me. The bolt remains are then easy enough to unscrew with a bolt extractor tool.

                  I'm sure it's nice to see some progress with the body work as well, even if there external issues and all that. Suppose it's part and parcel of such an involved resto job!

                  Good luck with the project and look forward to seeing some more pics and reading more about your trials and tribulations!

                  Cheers,
                  Joakim

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