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    bare metal respray

    hi any ideas how much a bare metal job would cost these days I know it will be up or down as to extra panel work etc
    just roughly
    also any one can recommend someone to do a good job and not charge £500 per hour
    cheers

    #2
    Originally posted by richard1705 View Post
    hi any ideas how much a bare metal job would cost these days I know it will be up or down as to extra panel work etc
    just roughly
    also any one can recommend someone to do a good job and not charge £500 per hour
    cheers
    when I did mine a decade ago the cost very much depended on how much I could do myself. I didnt want to pay £xx / hour for someone to strip my car down, so I did all that, got it down to a rolling shell. Then Mr Bodyshop man could do the expensive specialist stuff.

    Once he had finished I reassembled everything.

    On top of all that I was super flexible on when Mr Bodyshop man was free to work on it, This did mean the job took longer but because he fit the project in when he could we were able to agree a fixed price. He would give me a shout on Friday saying bring it up Monday and he has two days to work on it. As it turned out with the exception of a few weeks, when I chose to fit a Manual overdrive box to the car, he had space to store it in his workshop. I didnt want to take the piss so did always offer to remove it if needed.

    It is a pricey business though, lots of body shops are NOT interested in work like this when they can earn more from insurance work.

    My car needed full paint, both doors, a-posts, inner wings on all four corners, outer wheelarches on the back, replacement of half of the headlamp panel. I sourced all the bits. Biggest risk for Mr bodyshop was that he would get tied up trying to fit sh..t pattern parts. SOCTFL helped me greatly here . Headlamp panel I bought complete original factory panel from a breaker that we cannibalised .

    By the time paint was on we were bang on budget, he enjoyed the job because I didn't load pressure on him, nor was I expecting a 100point concourse job from him.

    All these ^^ things will impact how much, pretty sure I paid £2500 for the whole job from him + another £500ish in panels and bits. Now that was a bargain 10 years ago
    Last edited by richardthestag; 11th August 2017, 15:39.
    Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony

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      #3
      Originally posted by richardthestag View Post
      when I did mine a decade ago the cost very much depended on how much I could do myself. I didnt want to pay £xx / hour for someone to strip my car down, so I did all that, got it down to a rolling shell. Then Mr Bodyshop man could do the expensive specialist stuff.

      Once he had finished I reassembled everything.

      On top of all that I was super flexible on when Mr Bodyshop man was free to work on it, This did mean the job took longer but because he fit the project in when he could we were able to agree a fixed price. He would give me a shout on Friday saying bring it up Monday and he has two days to work on it. As it turned out with the exception of a few weeks, when I chose to fit a Manual overdrive box to the car, he had space to store it in his workshop. I didnt want to take the piss so did always offer to remove it if needed.

      It is a pricey business though, lots of body shops are NOT interested in work like this when they can earn more from insurance work.

      My car needed full paint, both doors, a-posts, inner wings on all four corners, outer wheelarches on the back, replacement of half of the headlamp panel. I sourced all the bits. Biggest risk for Mr bodyshop was that he would get tied up trying to fit sh..t pattern parts. SOCTFL helped me greatly here . Headlamp panel I bought complete original factory panel from a breaker that we cannibalised .

      By the time paint was on we were bang on budget, he enjoyed the job because I didn't load pressure on him, nor was I expecting a 100point concourse job from him.

      All these ^^ things will impact how much, pretty sure I paid £2500 for the whole job from him + another £500ish in panels and bits. Now that was a bargain 10 years ago
      Richard I have a shell I need painting and assuming the place you used was local to you (HW) and the guy hasn't closed up shop or died of 2 pack poisoning I would be interested in their contact details.
      I think you could add another 10K to the figure you mentioned for that amount of work these days!
      - Alan

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        #4

        Richard

        I would think your looking at 3-5k depends on how much work they have to do,at the moment mine is stripped and a light coat of etich primer on while im working on it,i stripped mine with angle grinder and wire wheel.

        Dave

        73 mk1.5 originally mimosa now gone to the dark side Delft Blue 73 white soon to be blue

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          #5
          hi dave have you got a good bodyshop guy in mind

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            #6
            thanks for the replies by the way Thomas /rich

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by richard1705 View Post
              hi dave have you got a good bodyshop guy in mind
              Im going to get Martin Thadioes spray mine,hes got to spray the sprint first
              73 mk1.5 originally mimosa now gone to the dark side Delft Blue 73 white soon to be blue

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                #8
                Got to be looking at £5k I think
                It's not orange it's red! (It's brighter now though)

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                  #9
                  I'm going to teach myself. How hard can it be?
                  Paul - 3 projects, 1 breaker - garage built and housing 2 white Stags. One runs, one doesn't

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Goldstar View Post
                    I'm going to teach myself. How hard can it be?
                    Jeff can do it

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The really skilled part is getting it all smooth. That is also the hard grind. When we did my TR6 20 years ago, I helped when my friend had got the car to primer and guide coat stage. It took us two days to rub down by hand and fill in the odd low spot and re prep.

                      The following day he put the paint on in about two hours.
                      David

                      Comment


                        #12
                        i went on a vehicle body restoration course, many years ago...The instructor was Brian Dunbar (i think) he was at that time in Practical classics magazine showing how to do bodywork , a great instructor. he showed us how to do everything and we were able to bring in panels and work on them under his supervision. so from there i restored a Beetle then my Stag . i have just finished a complete body restoration and paintwork of my TR6. This needs assembling now.....back to your question ...its all about time and patience ,
                        and time and patience ! its slow work rubbing down ,filling shaping etc but so rewarding when done. i did buy an air fed mask and all associated filters as i used 2k paint.
                        My end result in my opinion is a better job than a lot of bodyshops work due to no time restraints,...when its all back together i will await other opinions on the quality of my work !
                        Len


                        this was a reply to Goldstar "how hard can it be ...."
                        Last edited by len; 12th August 2017, 08:25.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by TR5convalescent View Post
                          The really skilled part is getting it all smooth. That is also the hard grind. When we did my TR6 20 years ago, I helped when my friend had got the car to primer and guide coat stage. It took us two days to rub down by hand and fill in the odd low spot and re prep.
                          I couldn't agree more. Getting the panels truly the correct shape takes a lot of time, high-build primer and rattle-can primer! Thank god we don't have to use lead-loading any more.
                          Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, ZF 4HP-22 auto,
                          2016 RBRR finisher. 400 mile C2C 21/22 April 2018!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by KOY 23 View Post
                            Jeff can do it
                            Oi!
                            I only do what the voices in my wife’s head tell me to do!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Goldstar View Post
                              I'm going to teach myself. How hard can it be?
                              I have painted a few cars and learned from the mistakes.

                              prep, prep, prep and then prep some more seemed to be the trick.

                              But this was back in the 1980s and filla technology has improved immeasurably for helping provide a perfect smooth finish

                              when painting sweep for dust, water the floor, sweep again, and again, and again, and then once more for luck. Tape plastic sheet over the walls, an old cheapo gazebo worked quite well as an impromptu spray booth.

                              then when you have done all of that get decent gun and filters, be meticulous with quantities, make sure the weather is perfect or the conditions in your spray booth are warm but not hot, no moisture etc etc, suit and mask up and lay on just enough paint so it doesnt sag or run. and crack on with it.

                              Laying the paint on is the quickest bit of the job by far.

                              Then when finished, think sod that I am going to let a pro do it next time
                              Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony

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