New clutch??

[Guest]

Hi all, i have a 76 stag manual. Not only does my clutch now squeal when the pedal is depressed but, the pedal doesn't come up smoothly and the whole car judders! does this mean i need a new clutch? The car has had a new clutch master cylinder fitted before i bought it!!

Thanks

Stan

[stagstr]

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Hi Stan,

The squealing is likely to be the clutch release bearing either worn or dry. Either way it won't improve without intervention.

The judder is a well-known Stag and TR problem which has been discussed at length in various forums. You might like to try the TR Register forum where a non-member has access and where there is a good search facility across the extensive archives. (the gearboxes are virtually identical). http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/...p?showforum=17

I also have a web link to the Wayback archives of the Buckeye Triumphs of Ohio web site, where there used to be all manner of good technical articles. If you can't locate it then give me your email address I will send it to you.

In essence, the clutch parts you need to cure the judder, on the assumption that once the gearbox is pulled you only want to do it once, so replace everything first time, are those associated with the movement of the clutch release bearing.The problemusuallyhas nothing to do with the clutch or master or slave cylinders, but you must satisfy yourself that this is true in your case. Also check that the slave cylinder pushrod is connected to the middle of the three holes on the crosshaft lever.

The parts to replace are:

Flywheel spigot bush, 150763

Clutch release bearing, GRB211

Clutch fork pin, 100165 (2)

Tapered pin, 158777

Cross shaft bush, 137651 (2), preferably with the newer longer version.

Make sure you press the newrelease bearing onto the sleeve as instructed in the manual otherwise you could damage the new one.

You must examine how freely or otherwise the bearing carrier (154976) slides over the front nose cover (154975) as this is reputedly where the problems arise, exaccerbated by the worn parts listed above. That's why you have to replace the parts above with new. You should not have to replace 154975 or 6 unless they are seriously scratched or grooved, allowing them to hang up. You may also find that the fork pin (158777) is broken. Removing that is another issue which I can help you with if necessary.

Finally, ensure that the clutch and clutch plate are central on the crankshaft axis and upon assembly, ensure thatthe correct dowelbolts fasten the bell housing up square to the rear of the engine.

I've done this job twice, once in a car that has now done 3000 miles trouble free and the second time in a box which is still sat on my bench untested. The car that has done 3000 mileshad a sticky clutch, mainly when hot and the release bearing was noisy.

I hope that helps but let me know if you need furtherinfo

Ray

[Guest]

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thanks for the info. i think i might wait for the weather to warm up a bit before taking it apart. may aswell replace everything while its in bits!!

thanks

stan:?

[Malcstag]

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Dont forget to torque the cover nuts correctly! You may have oil on the clutch which can lead to juder, may be the slave cylinder dripping? I had a wharped fly wheel but thats enough to put you off, worth checking the face of the wheel for heat fractures and check and torque up accordingly.

[Chris810]

imported post

I do like the "I might as well replace everything whilst it is in bits" philosophy a true stag nut!