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    #16
    Originally posted by dasadrew View Post
    One of those Chinese IR thermometers off eBay could give you some factual information about the actual temperatures around the engine. There have been a few posts citing the transfer housing measured temperatures.

    Drew
    Not to forget that different surfaces have different IR emissivity, so will give different readings, used sensibly they will give an approximate indication but not from reflective surfaces.

    Comment


      #17
      OK the plot thickens............

      I have just taken the thermostat housing off to look what is inside and there was not thermostat. There was a brand new one in the boot, this is the second odd thing about the cooling system, as when I replaced the coolant it was water. Should have thought that when I run the hose through the block it did this easily indicating no thermostat!

      I have put the thermostat in and started the engine. The water pump makes a low pitch squeaking noise (I think it is the water pump as it is in that general area). I ran the engine until the gauge showed hot. The thermostat had not opened although the water to the back of this was hot as you could feel it through the hose, obviously not hot enough though, s the hose on the other side was still cool and the radiator was still cold. The engine did not appear too hot and I had only been running it for 5 minutes, but I neshed out of waiting for the thermostat to open. Could it be that the water pump is knackered and therefore even if the thermostat does open it is not pushing it by fast enough?

      There is obviously something wrong if the previous owner had left the stat out.

      Comment


        #18
        Also I have a receipt in the file from the previous owner, from robsport dated 2014 for a new 6 blade pump recon exchange. Also in the file is a temp sender receipt from 2014

        Water does run freely through the water passages as I have done this with a hose.

        I hope that the temp sender or gauge are wrong and that when I have established this I will be worrying about nothing!

        Comment


          #19
          I have now changed the temperature sender. The problem persists! I have checked the voltage stabilizer and at the temp gauge it is reading over 13 volts with the engine running. Should it regulate the voltage to 10 volts? If so then this would be the issue, and the gauge is over reading?

          I am pretty sure that it is not over heating. Even though the gauge was on red (2 minutes after starting) I let the engine run until the thermostat opened. I then checked the top hose which was hot and bottom return hose which was cool, so the rad was working. Also the aftermarket fan suggested that the water temp was 80 as when I moved the gauge round it kicked in at 80.

          Thanks in advance for any help, or confirmation of my thinking.

          Comment


            #20
            It is sounding that the voltage stabiliser may be the problem. Best way to check is to substitute with another one. The way these "stabilisers" work is quite crude. It's designed to give an average of 10V (by switching from battery volts to zero for varing periods of time), not a constant 10V. The way it does this is by incorporating a heating element around a bi-metallic strip, which acts as the switching component. So, from cold, the stabilser puts out battery volts and the internal heater warms the bi-metallic strip. The strip gets warm and bends, interrupting the output and heating element. The stabiliser then cools, and the bi-metallic strip returns to its initial state and completes the circuit once more, outputting battery volts. The timings of the on/ off cycle are what gives the average 10V, and is relatively insensitive to whether the battery is at 12V, or at 14+V when it's being charged.

            The Fuel and Temp indicators themselves function using internal bi-metallic strips with heating elements - the bend on the bi-metallic strips causing the needles to move. This is a slow, damped response when compared with a moving coil meter (pure electrical response) and therefore the intermittent manner in which the voltage stabiliser works isn't an issue.

            Some owners have substituted the OEM stabiliser with a semiconductor type (single device with 3 terminals) - I think there will be references on here if you do a search. Cost of each is similar at sub £15.

            Jonno

            PS - if it is the V stabiliser, you won't have as much fuel as your gauge indicates
            White 1976 build ("Mk2") only a few mods

            Comment


              #21
              Sorted it eventually.........

              It was not the sender, stabilizer or gauge. The previous owner/or somebody else had wired into the light green wiring (stabilizer to gauges) a wire to the fuel low warning light, this was live and putting 12 volts to the regulated side of the stabilizer. Therefore making everything over-read.

              The previous owner has put a £200 electric fan on it as he though it was running too warm, and in a desperate bid to keep it cool has taken out the thermostat! Only thing is I now need to work out how to make the fuel level warning light work. It must have been running really cold and telling me it was warm!

              Comment


                #22
                Good spot.

                Oh, the unintended consequences of "upgrades".

                Glad you're making progress.

                Many owners get a bit p'eed off with the Fuel warning light as it tends to start flashing on when cornering when the level is only just under half. Some have added a delay circuit, so that the float switch has to have been on for 15s or so before the light comes on.

                Jonno
                White 1976 build ("Mk2") only a few mods

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by Swifty75 View Post
                  Sorted it eventually.........

                  It was not the sender, stabilizer or gauge. The previous owner/or somebody else had wired into the light green wiring (stabilizer to gauges) a wire to the fuel low warning light, this was live and putting 12 volts to the regulated side of the stabilizer. Therefore making everything over-read.

                  The previous owner has put a £200 electric fan on it as he though it was running too warm, and in a desperate bid to keep it cool has taken out the thermostat! Only thing is I now need to work out how to make the fuel level warning light work. It must have been running really cold and telling me it was warm!
                  well done, for once not lucas or triumph fault.

                  We like to call the DPO

                  # previous owner

                  It your system pressurising now?

                  I have the TR7 delay unit on my stag, saves the fuel light flashing constantly at anything from 1/3 tank and down. causes my heart to skip a beat thinking OIL LIGHT then realising I took the bulb out years ago*

                  * to fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge

                  Last edited by richardthestag; 23 March 2018, 20:10.
                  Stags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony

                  Comment


                    #24
                    It has run well. Temp stays at half when warmed up. Fuel gauge now reads more accurately as well.

                    I now have another issue though. The rev counter has started jumping up and down. I have checked the wiring to the back and it looks ok with WC / W / G / Earth. So not sure why it is doing this. Fix one and find another!!!

                    Oh and one more, when I fill the Petrol tank to the top it seeps though the seal where the sender housing is spot welded into the tank (not the unit itself). Obviously cannot weld here, can you use a sealant?

                    Comment

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