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    Headlight flasher

    no this is not rude and would be « moderated » if it was. The stalk for trafficators should also allow me to flash my headlights. It works fine for the trafficators but the headlights stay unlight when I pull the stalk back. I gather this is a common fault with Stags.
    However, I would like to restore this function as full headlights can be used to warn other motorists you are coming through. I would like advice as to what to look for / do. Electricals are not my forte, but I am about to replace the steering column covers so this might be the moment to tackle this job.
    Incidentally, neither the curtesy light in the « T » bar or the boot light work. I am going to start with the bulbs first.

    #2
    Assuming its the correct switch it is possibly the top and bottom covers that need realigning, slacken the screws and try and move it down slightly, but not too far as this will stop you pushing rg stalk back to obtain main beam.

    Nigel
    Nigel
    1976 MK2 TV8 ZF - 4 HP-22 Auto, Hard Top Inca Yellow, Minilite Replicas, Stagdad Pump

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      #3
      With this combination of symptoms, sounds like you may have either a blown Fuse 1 (closest to centre of the car).or a broken connection on one of the circuits coming from that fuse. If not the fuse itself, check the fuse clips for tightness or corrosion. Strongly recommend disconnecting the battery before adjusting/ cleaning the fuseclips as this circuit is live at all times..

      Jonno

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        #4
        Be aware that, whatever you are flashing with your stalk, the standard wiring set-up puts a great electrical load on the switch and may be at the root of your problems. On mine the plastic, connectors, and wires were almost fused together with heat. The way around this is to fit relays so that only a low switching current passes through the switch. It's not a huge task and there are plenty on the forum who could talk you through it.

        Drew
        If you can't say something nice, don't say it !

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          #5
          The column switch, as Drew writes, is a weak point. Take to cover off the column (three screws underneath) and examine the contacts on the switch that make when the flash function is selected. Note that there are two contacts, one for main beam and another for flash. The main beam could be okay while the flash one is dirty, although I have found one that was melted like Drew mentioned.
          Have you got the standard lighting set-up or have you fitted main/dip to all four, or maybe uprated bulbs? Either of these without a relay will destroy the column switch.
          Of course, it might just be a fuse, as Jonno write. Two contacts label.JPGtwo contacts side.JPG
          Last edited by mole42; 6th November 2018, 17:01.
          Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, ZF 4HP-22 auto,
          2016 RBRR finisher. 400 mile C2C 21/22 April 2018!

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            #6
            All the reported non-working items are fed from the purple wire circuit. Makes sense to go back to the source first, especially as this is probably the easiest. If there's a short somewhere, then a bit of checking of individual components will be necessary, then the wiring itself. I've read a few comments lately that the cigarette lighter has caused some owners shorting problems - not sure if they're internal to the socket, the lighter itself or some incidental contact between the +ve terminal and other equipment.

            Jonno

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              #7
              Thanks guys. Away on grandson sitting duty till next Friday/ Saturday week so just dreaming of how to fix.
              I did get a look at the stalk and it did look rather less than shiny. But I will also check the fuse with battery disconnected first!

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                #8
                Hi all.
                At ladtgot around to this job. Garage was frigging freezing though! Anyway tested the fuses first and all OK. squirted copious quantities of WD 40 and still no headlights on pulling back the indicator stalk. Then dismantled the plastic covers to the steering column. With LDL rechargeable flood light found the problem. The purple wire has become detached from the little grommet that holds it in position.
                So thanks for the advice and the colour to track down. Now trying to refix the wire with the unit in situ!

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                  #9
                  Copious quantities of WD40 never fixed anything except an Austin / Morris Mini with damp ignition!

                  it’s fairly easy to take the switch off the column but less easy to take it off the car. If you unscrew the two fixing screws it will hang down on the cable and be much easier to work on. However, I fear that the purple wire termination has broken and may be a bugger to repair. A new switch may be necessary.
                  Mabel is a white 1972 Mk1½, TV8, ZF 4HP-22 auto,
                  2016 RBRR finisher. 400 mile C2C 21/22 April 2018!

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                    #10
                    Guys - having trouble uncrimping the broken wire that’s fixed to the unit. Hopefully I can attach a photograph. As Mole suggests this is not proving easy and I would prefer not to replace the switch - this is not a good time of year financially as many of us know!
                    Tried with very fine pliers. Also tried picking prizing crimps open. Only result is pinched finger and first blood to the Stag - literally

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                      #11
                      Just snip of the wire and clean up the contact as best you can; then solder the new wire on to the old crimped connector "piggy back". You could slip some heat-shrink sleeve over the patch if you feel it might contact some surrounding metal or connector.

                      Buying a new switch might not even solve your problem - on mine the new switch had slightly different wiring so I also had to swap two wires over at their crimped connector. I still needed the new connector as my old one had melted due to the headlight current going through the switch and not via a relay (a common Stag problem!)

                      Drew
                      If you can't say something nice, don't say it !

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                        #12
                        Thanks Drew. Will try this over the weekend. I think I might even add a small new piece of purple wiring connecting that first to the connector and then connect that to the wire. Obviously I will protect the new bit connecting to the old with a heat shrink sleeve. Do you know what rating the wire is?

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                          #13
                          It's just the High Beams that are flashed - assume 60W each element (and the wiring hasn't been changed to flasher 4 lights), then the load is nominally 10A. 0.5mm2 would do the job - I'd be inclined to use 1.0mm2. If you're going to buy some purple wire, spare 1.0mm2 could be used at different parts of the circuit. Autosparks carry a wide range of colours & sizes https://www.autosparks.co.uk/electri...thin-wall.html

                          Jonno
                          Last edited by StagJonno; 11th January 2019, 20:30.

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                            #14
                            Thanks Jono
                            Nigel

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