Originally posted by DJT
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Condensation in instruments
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without wishing to add to the pantomine I also had the condensation issue on my original temp gauge and its replacement. (though now I have a new mechanical temp/oil pres gauge which doesn't mist up)
However my Vometer does still mist up and without the lights on. With the lights on the speedo and tacho also mist up but then the condensation clears after a mile or two.
I do wonder if it clears because of the heat from the incandescent bulb and whether an LED would have the same effect. i.e. change to LED and have instruments fogged up for longer.
Just saying that newer may not necessarily be betterStags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony
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I see misting with the top down, lights on and off. I have wondered whether it is because the relatively warm garage air (warm air holds more moisture) from inside the dash passes through any unsealed gaps and meets the back of the glass dial faces that are being cooled by fresh air as you drive to create the condensation; it usually clears after a while. I have not looked to see if it happens with the hardtop on, perhaps an experiment is called for.
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Incandescent bulbs don’t generate condensation but the heat they generate will evaporate water which will then condense on a cold surface. LED’s may not result in condensation but they won’t dry out any moisture in the gauge either. I’ll stick with drying them out to save damp related issues.
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Here goes.... changed all gauge seals, new glasses treated with rain-ex!!!!....gauge misting seemed to be slightly improved.
Changed all illumination bulbs to LED.....misting slightly more improved....Rebuilt heater.....gauge misting almost negligible. OH NO IT ISNT, WAIT, OH, HANG ON, DUNNO.
P.S. The clock is a late replacement from kienzle / unipart with an acrylic face....never mists up.
P.P.S. Fit acrylic 'glass' problem solved???Last edited by jbuckl; 3 January 2019, 00:53.There are 2 secrets to staying on top :- 1. Don't give everything away.
2.
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Originally posted by jbuckl View PostHere goes.... changed all gauge seals, new glasses treated with rain-ex!!!!....gauge misting seemed to be slightly improved.
Changed all illumination bulbs to LED.....misting slightly more improved....Rebuilt heater.....gauge misting almost negligible. OH NO IT ISNT, WAIT, OH, HANG ON, DUNNO.
P.S. The clock is a late replacement from kienzle / unipart with an acrylic face....never mists up.
P.P.S. Fit acrylic 'glass' problem solved???
It's behind you
my solution. bought these. when they arrive I will stuff them in the glovebox. When the 5mins of misting in some gauges only on a cold morning annoys me enough* I will stuff some of this into the affected gauges.
*never going to happen because I like that authentic 1970s feeling but more likely I just cannot be bothered to take them all apart until the summer and then I conveniently forget about the misting up .
BTW good tip on the acrylic "glass" can you buy them precut?
How do you get around dimming the LEDs? my oem dimmer has three settings, off, full and glowwormStags and Range Rover Classics - I must be a loony
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I have fitted LED bulbs in all the gauges and have found that they still mist up (when turned on) coming home from an evening run - even in the warmer months.
My Stag is kept in a heated and de-humidified garage with the de-humidifier on a timer so that it's on for a few hours early morning and the same early evening but only when weather is damp.
I have a weather station inside the garage so that I can monitor temperature and humidity and try to keep the garage at 50% or just below. Hope this helps.
Regards, John.
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"They all do that sir" !! Yep, took my car out a few days ago and both volts and temp. gauge had fair amount of condensation inside the glass. Think probably due to it being a cold & frosty night, then the morning sun shining on the (aluminium, horrid stuff !) roof of the lock-up, which was quite moist/damp inside, due to roof and concrete construction. Took her out for 15 mile spin (she will get used through the winter, but only on days when roads are dry), and condensation all but gone after the heater warmed up the interior. Ah, the joys of classic car ownership...
Also have fitted a set of led lights to the instrument.,Frankly still not bright enough, despite being good quality......anyone know if it is possible the rheostat isn't delivering enough volts ?? The original lights were pretty awful too, which is why I changed to led's. Happy Stagging…...Neil'77 Tahiti Blue, Spax, MoD, poly-bushed.
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There are many LEDs out there of variable quality & brightness. From myself and other forumites, there's a general consensus that Better Car Lighting and Classic Car Lighting supply good items.
Joining together the connections on the rheostat will remove it from influencing brightness, though I think it'll not make much difference with LEDs and likely to be on or off.
Jonno
Took too long to postWhite 1976 build ("Mk2") only a few mods
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Hello Neil,
I bypassed the rheostat prior to fitting led bulbs and was surprised how bright the standard bulbs were!
That proved to me that the rheostat was doing a very bad job, although the lights did dim!
LEDs were brighter again but no dimming option, of course.
I believe that there is a way of fitting dimmable leds and an adjuster, someone has explained on here previously and will probably re-iterate for you.
Regards, John.
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Would this be a viable option as a dimmer switch replacement for LED dash lights? http://www.bettercarlighting.co.uk/i...&productId=303
No experience of this item or connection to business, etc.Dave
1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.
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