I purchased some Payen inlet manifold gaskets the back two (the ones with the long holes) had the slot cut to low and blocked the water passage by almost 50% which also ment the sealing area was reduced. The reason I found out was I had a water pump seal go bad and had to remove the manifold then refit Just thought I would make people aware check the gasket against the head with the top bolt in and against the manifold. If you are paying 12 quid a pop for a gasket set they should be right. I now have a a few sets cut and on hand from .030 thou thick to help fit the manifold and some 050 thou thick if I ever need to pull the head which is what they should be.
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I fitted Manifold gaskets from LDparts and they fitted like a glove.
Sukh.
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I could be wrong, but I believe there is a deliberate mismatch between the inlet manifold and cylinder head waterways put in when the engine was designed and the coolant flow was being adjusted so you might find that the gasket lines up better on one side than the other.
Or then again i could be completely wrong :shock:. Does this ring any bells with anyone?
Rgds
Dave
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Can any one confirm this ? Is the idea to restrict water flow there by slowing the heat transfer medium and increasing cooling.
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This couldn't be anything to do with what Peter at LDparts says on his website could it?:
"Notice also the slit along the rear gasket. If the gasket ever starts to fail, then the water is drawn into these slots and then is pushed out via two grooves milled into the head, leading into the Vee.
If these slits are not present, as is the case in some aftermarket gaskets, then when they fail the coolant disappears out of the exhaust leading people to think the head gasket has gone as water level goes down but there is no telltale leak to the Vee"
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No this is the oblong hole in the gasket for the water passage, the ones Peter is talking about are the small ones just above this and they get blocked by sealer even when you are very conservative with it since it squeezes out.
Stuart
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elvimto wrote:But not if you use wellsealNo this is the oblong hole in the gasket for the water passage, the ones Peter is talking about are the small ones just above this and they get blocked by sealer even when you are very conservative with it since it squeezes out.
Stuart
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I have come to the conclusion,after maintaining & running Stags for over 30 years,that the issue regarding the inlet manifold gasket & head configuration is complimentary to correct installation of the heads & manifold.The angulation of the cylinder head studs allows for compression of the fixings of the manifold,in other words they pull the heads towards the manifold on tightening .The hottest part of the engine is at the rear that is why the gaskets have that extra slot in the gasket to allow more coolant to pass to cool this area. The problem most of us have in this area is leaking from the rear inlet gaskets due to the exessive expansion & contraction in this area,therefore the need to helicoil the the 6 threads on the heads.It is an unfortunate fact, but the removal of the manifold for say the access to the water pump,requires the removal of one of the heads to facillitate the said bond between the heads on refitting.To be brutally honest the sure way is to remove both heads & rebuild torquing the manifold bolts before the head studs & bolts.Due to the problems regarding the duff gearwheel on some after market replacement pumps I would definately opt for the external pump that has been featured recently together with a header tank.I am sorry for the diatribe but you cannotexersize short cuts,when dealing with these engines
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Quote (I could be wrong, but I believe there is a deliberate mismatch between the inlet manifold and cylinder head waterways put in when the engine was designed and the coolant flow was being adjusted so you might find that the gasket lines up better on one side than the other.)
Quote (.I am sorry for the diatribe but you cannotexersize short cuts,when dealing with these engines)
This is my first time at ownership of a Stag I removed the heads and did a valve job replaced all the valves recut the seats put thread inserts in all the exhaust and intake manifold locations and checked all the component parts etc also installed the manifold like the book said and I agree you do not short cut when rebuilding or maintaining equipment. I am going to rebuild my own water pump so I will not have to worry about bad gears or replacement parts not being up to spec. I will however use a thinner .030 thou gasket to enable me to replace the water pump without removing the head since I was able to seal the manifold in order to eliminate where the leak was coming from. My original question was about the rear gasket and the long slot for the water passage and the offset and is it like that for a reason or should the passage be open giving full flow or was it restricted for a reason? Once I eliminate all the water leaks I can then test drive the car and see if I have any other issues that will need fixing by the way Wellseal is not available in in US.
Cheers Stuart
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When I changed my left hand head earlier this year I put the inlet manifold on before pulling the head down,I used County inlet manifold gaskets with no sealent and the inlet manifoldI usedwas in good shape.Im tempting fate here saying this but so far everything is bone dry,this job was done about April time and the cars been in regular use since.I put the excellent seal down to thegood condition of the inlet manifold because in the past I have used Payen i/m gaskets with wellseal and always ended up with a weep untill I put the saviour in, K-Seal,also like to point out neither of the heads was slackened off to replace them before.
Mark
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elvimto wrote:you can get it on ebay had a quick look and this one will post to you I would think - there are a number of other listings for itby the way Wellseal is not available in in US.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WELLSEAL-JOINT...item3a5c9df45b
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I have just put the top end of mine back together and the thing i found with these is that the bolt holes are actually about 2mm too high in the gasket and because of this the manifold does not fully seal against the head. ( only about 1.5mm of the gasket is against the head) i milled the holes out slightly lower, this raised the gasket and they then have full contact with the head.
i did get some last year that were correctly aligned but the weep holes were larger.
i put the hoses on and filled the engine with water before i fitted the engine and there are no leaks so hopefully when i put the engine in a after breakfast all will be well.
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elvimto wrote:My original question was about the rear gasket and the long slot for the water passage and the offset and is it like that for a reason or should the passage be open giving full flow or was it restricted for a reason?Hi StuartCheers Stuart
my cotribution comes a little late but I was on holiday.
As far as I remember from a very detailed investigation at the University of Mannheim concerning Stag pumps and water flow ( carried out by our German club member Prof. M. Lindner and his team):
the water ways should be as wide as possible because any counter pressure will reduce the flowing water volume. The main restrictions are the manifold gaskets if not fitted correctly and the open orifice of the thermostat. Lindner has therefore eliminated the manifold gaskets and milled oval O-ring grooves into the manifold (there was a thread here showing a picture with this situation some months ago). Some weeks ago he reported that there is a thermostat on the Stag spare part market (from an no 1 supplier) with a very narrow water way!
Hope I met the point of your problem.
Klaus
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