Subframe mounting bushes

[Dave M]

Well Ive spent some more money on my money pit of a Stag, just fitted a CV jointed prop shaft in an attempt to get rid of the intermittent clonk from the rear end which I can not pin point to a particular time or action of when it occurs. Thought getting rid of a couple of UJs might help. So spent last night stripping the exhaust off again, fitting the new prop and refitting the silencers so that I could get the car off the ramps and back into the garage before it got too dark (10PM).

Now before I refit the exhaust tail pipes I have a question re the subframe mounting bushes and their replacement. These are the only bushes on the rear end I havent replaced so bought two new ones at ND with a view to fitting them in another attempt to rid the car of the dreaded clonk. Question is can I fit them without having to drop the subframe out again?

Im hoping the combination of these two jobs as well as the recent fitting of the Datsun drive shafts will rid the bloody thing of this annoying clonk, if not it will be Basil Fawlty time but with a sledge hammer not a branch of a tree.

Trouble is if and when I get rid of this one theres the annoying clunk from the rebuilt gearbox to get rid of (which a certain Stag specialist has had 3 goes at), it never ends.

Dave

[NickA]

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Dave M wrote:

<snip> Question is can I fit them without having to drop the subframe out again?

yes you can, there's room to unbolt and re-fit once the sub-frame drops with the long bolt removed.

[Mike Stevens]

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Dead easy. They fit under the subframe so come down once the bolts are removed. Getting the boltsundone can sometimes be 'fun'.

Cheers,

Mike.

[stagunhalf]

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hii dave did mine and fitted poly ones and used s steel washers and new bolts stewart

[stagunhalf]

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hi dave stewart here from N D i did mine and used poly ones and s steel washers and new bolts good luck stewart

[Dave M]

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Thanks for all the replies guys, bolts should undo ok asI had the whole subframe out earlier this year (should have changed them then but they looked ok) bought the standard rubber ones as Ihad read somewhere that it was not advisable to fit the poly ones in this location, hows your stagwith them on Stuart?

Just hoping the new prop and new bushes will get rid of the clunk as its one of those niggling things that doesent always happen and then suddenly it does it.

Dave

[confrench]

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Dave M wrote:

Thanks for all the replies guys, bolts should undo ok asI had the whole subframe out earlier this year (should have changed them then but they looked ok) bought the standard rubber ones as Ihad read somewhere that it was not advisable to fit the poly ones in this location, hows your stagwith them on Stuart?

Just hoping the new prop and new bushes will get rid of the clunk as its one of those niggling things that doesent always happen and then suddenly it does it.

Dave

Whilst you are underneath the back end fit the Monarch Watts type linkage to the Trailing arms.This mod competely transforms the handling and keeps the rear wheels in line with the front ones

[martin]

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Hi Dave, I understand that the modern rubber bushes don't last well, get the softest polys you can find. Martin.

[Guest]

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martin wrote:

Hi Dave, I understand that the modern rubber bushes don't last well, get the softest polys you can find. Martin.

Oh Martin, what did you say that for? I fitted new rubber ones 'cos I didnt want to for out £95 on poly:shock:

I too have still got the stag clunk. Brand new greasable driveshafts, new UJs on driveshafts and prop, so is me diff knackered?



Jason

[NickA]

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martin wrote:

Hi Dave, I understand that the modern rubber bushes don't last well, get the softest polys you can find. Martin.

Personally I'd buy these

http://www.ldparts.co.uk/shop/shop.p...uct&pid=68

not keen on Poly given the price

[flying farmer]

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If you can turn the propshaft flange ten or twenty degrees before there is any movement on the driveshaft flanges, it is normally the thrust washers behind the smaller bevel gears in the diff that have worn thin. The shaft they are mounted on is held in place with a roll pin.

Knock that out, withdraw the pin and remove the small gears and their thrust washers. The center of the thrust washer doesn't wear and can be measured to find the appropriate thickness. The original thickness was stamped in but the numbers have normally worn away

This will normally remove most of the backlash in a diff and costs very little. I have never tried doing it with the diff still in the car, but if it is possible to lower it enough to remove the backplate it should be possible.

I have replaced the washers in my TR twice now and they need doing again, but it had done 145000 miles when it came out of a dolly sprint axle with knackered casing, and has probably done another 100000 since, still on the original bearings

Neil

[martin]

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stagstan wrote:

martin wrote:

Hi Dave, I understand that the modern rubber bushes don't last well, get the softest polys you can find. Martin.

Oh Martin, what did you say that for? I fitted new rubber ones 'cos I didnt want to for out £95 on poly:shock:

I too have still got the stag clunk. Brand new greasable driveshafts, new UJs on driveshafts and prop, so is me diff knackered?

 

Jason

Sorry mate, hope I'm wrong. Martin.

[stagunhalf]

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hi dave did the hole car in poly bushes and lowered it a lot.all so new standed drive shalfs and adjustable sub frame mounting brakets .the car drives good but will change all shocks as soon as a can make my mind up what to go with no knocks and no bangs

[Mike J]

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I,ve got to the stage where I would be worried if my Stag didn't clonk going up and coming down gears. At least I know there is something going on at the rear end and Its not getting worse YET.