bonnet insulation pad

[pcoleman]

hi all, is it possible to fit a new under bonnet insulation pad without removing the cross brace or does it ruin it trying to kerjigle it into position ?

thoughts / experience please. pete.c :?

[milothedog]

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It can be done but you risk damaging your new one for the sake of drilling out and replacing 2 3/16" rivets.

Ian.

[cosmicwheels]

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When i fitted mine the first time i removed the bar but did not use adhesive and had to re do it ,so i would wait for more posts before starting.. John

[redstag]

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milothedog wrote:

It can be done but you risk damaging your new one for the sake of drilling out and replacing 2 3/16" rivets.

Ian.

Good advice.

When I bought mine I was told it could be done and came very close to ruining it before doing the sensible thing and removing the rivets.

I didn't glue mine in though, and haven't had any problems and it's been in several years now.



Pete

[pcoleman]

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guess i'll have to man up and get rivets as well,think will use spray on adhesive too as it aint getting done again !!

thanks guys. pete.c

[Stevekid1]

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Did mine without removing the bar and did not glue it either and its been fine. I did change the four side bits for stainless steel pieces though. Be very carefull when drilling out the rivetts as the drill bit shoots through the rivett when you get through it. Unfortunately, I ended up witha ping in the bonnet when this happened

Steve

[Moraystag]

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I did exactly the same and drilled through the rivet with way to much enthusiasm and dented the bonnet. Never glued mine either just replaced it with retaining bar, rubbed down and sprayed matt black,and instead of riveting back the retainingchrome steel bitsI bought shinny stainless short reach self tappers and secured it like that.

Use a decent size drill bit to remove the old rivet headsto avoid going all the way through and denting the bonnet. It fairly tidy's up the engine bay with new bonnet insulation and shinny retaining brackets

[pcoleman]

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yes id'e thought about the bonnet damage scenario hence the question to drill or not to drill as it were ! I will see if I can pack out the gap behind with wood or similar to avoid tears at bed time !!

regards. pete.c

[dasadrew]

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Don't drill through the rivets - use a large drill bit (10mm or so) and drill the rivet heads off. Then punch the remains through with a drift.

If the pad does start flapping about, surely you could glue some of those Velcro spots (available at Halfrauds methinks) at critical places - that way it would always remain removable for any reason.

[pompey272]

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Just fitted one what does it do not have one for 3 years cannot think why i spent my money.When drilling the rivet output tape around the drill as a stop.

[Stag Andy]

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Wrap some tape around the drill bit to act as a safety stop,the drill then cant possibly damage the other side.Its an old trick but it works.I should read this **** before i post a response i see pompey272 says the same,sorry mate!

[Rubce]

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Why bother fitting the insulation pad at all? What is its purpose apart from looking tatty after a period of time? What is it supposed to insulate against, heat or sound?

If its heat, you want the heat out of the engine bay, so why insulate it in by fitting the pad?

If its noise, then why do you want to not hear the lovely sound of a V8 engine?

I once heard someone say that it i supposed to protect the bonnet paintwork. I am not sure how true that is seeing as our GT6 doesn't have such a pad fitted and the bonnet paintwork hasn't fallen of yet despite there being almost zero clearance between it and the top of the engine.

Bruce