Clutch adjustment

[Rubce]

Hi All

Fitted new master and slave cylinders to the clutch today. The bite is barely above the floor which seems very odd considering its a brand new clutch. Currently the slave rod is set to the middle hole on the linkage.

Any suggestions on why the bite is so low? To improve it do I move the rod to the top or bottom hole?

Thanks

Bruce

[marlbstag]

imported post

Hi Bruce how much free play is there with slave cylinder piston fully returned in bore, as for some strange reason i had to make my pushrod longer by adding a nut at end of bore to get pick up right as too much free play. Martin.

[redstag]

imported post

When bleeding, did you rotate the slave cylinder slightly so the bleed nipple was at the highest possible point? The slave is often difficult to bleed properly and if you do not rotate it you can leave air in the cylinder.

If it's not air in the system it will be mechanical wear at some point. The cross-shaft and bushes in the bellhousing and the pivot on the clutch pedal where it connects to the master cylinder rod are common areas to find wear. The smallest amount of wear will make a big difference to the clutch action.

The slave rod should be in the middle hole but you could move it to the top hole to get a bit more travel. This will give a heavier pedal though and will only be compensating for a problem somwhere else.



Pete

[Rubce]

imported post

Hi Guys

Thanks for the suggestions. I bled the slave cylinder with it mounted in position. I will try again with it hanging loose so the nipple is at the top and see if that makes any difference.

Regards

Bruce

[Stag Andy]

imported post

It may be the clutch cross shaft pin broken,its very common and the best way to check,is to take the clevis pin out of the slave and then push the cross shaft forwards and then when all the way back and listen/feel for a sort of dull click which indicates the pin is broken.If this is the case when the gearbox is out aswell as changing the pin weld the fork to the crosshaft,all done and will stay done for evermore.
I suspect this is the problem with Marlbstag's clutch too

[Rubce]

imported post

Hi Andy

On my car its not the cross shaft pin as that is brand new along with the friction plate, release bearing, pressure plate, slave cylinder, master cylinder and hose.

Regards

Bruce

[Stag Andy]

imported post

OK thats fair enough,blimey you've done the lot,im at a bit of a loss with your problem now.......i'm guessing it must be air in the system still

[flying farmer]

imported post

Hi Bruce, bleeding the clutch with the nipple at the top will almost certainly fix it, unless it is like mine when I converted from auto to manual.

My clutch pedal sat a little low so I had to cut the master cylinder push rod and extend it slightly to lift the pedal away from the floor a little and give it a longer stroke. This worked fine. I had to do the same thing with a Toledo about 30 years ago

Neil

[marlbstag]

imported post

Hi Andy, my cross shaft taper pin etc are all ok/ new, everything was fine untill i took g/box off engine during engine swop to my mk1 when refitted g/box with same parts untouched had extra movement to previous, strange i know but only differant component in equation was clutch m/cyl and that would not give free play. Martin.

[Stagdad]

imported post

I've see pictures of a modified pushrod that is adjustable somewhere on here,seems like a good idea to me to be able to fine tune the peddal movment,would be quite easy to do with a bit of threaded tube and a locknut.

Cheers Steve

[DJT]

imported post

Stagdad wrote:

I've see pictures of a modified pushrod that is adjustable somewhere on here,seems like a good idea to me to be able to fine tune the peddal movment,would be quite easy to do with a bit of threaded tube and a locknut.

Cheers Steve

I had one for my previous Stag. Got it from Howard Vesey, who told me it was from one of the TR series.

Dave

[Banny]

imported post

Rubce

you're not having the same problem as Stagnjag had with the clutch cylinder are you -http://stagownersclub.mywowbb.com/forum1/9639.html

Tim

[Rubce]

imported post

Hi Tim

Thanks. Yes I had seen that posting at the time and my slave cyclinder is mounted on the gearbox side of the bell housing.

Cheers

Bruce

[Rubce]

imported post

Hi All

Taking the good advice already given I dismounted the slave cylinder, rotated it until the bleed nipple was at the 12 o'clock position and re-bled the system. A large bubble of air popped out. Hey presto the clutch bite is in a much better position on the pedal now.

Thanks

Bruce:dude: