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Of course pictures can lie but it doen't look too bad to me. Certainly not a massive welding job it looks extremely localisedand outside the MOT problem areas. The usual cause of damage in this area isthe drain pipes that drain thechannel that holds the rubber seal around the Tonneau top being blocked. Getthe drainscleared and then clean the small rust section and add someglass fibre and resin.
It won't be the prettiest job but should keep you on the road. - Alan
I would dig about a bit more to see how bad the corrosion is, if any, could be surface. Easy to weld, depends how original you want to keep it, could be patched up.
Jeff.
I only do what the voices in my wife’s head tell me to do!
I'm a bit scared to dig any further, this is not the first repair the car has had, the pictures dont show what else has been done previously, i think i'm off to welding school (or i shall buy a welding kit) i can see daylight through the holes, the pictures i dont think doo the corrosion justice. Nightmare. Buy a stag loose your sanity, but its so good when the sun is out and every one and i do mean every one i meet and talk to loves them, bizzare.
This area is the top of a box section formed by the rear chassis rails /spring supports. I had to repair both sides on my car when I restored it.
It is a common spot for corrosion andif you can see daylight then the chassis section is corroded, most likely at the spring support. The spring support itself will probably have rusted badly but is available as a repair panel. The chassis member is relatively straightforward to repairand is a heavy gauge steel as it is a structural part of the car.
The seat panel is not too difficult to repair but it can take some time to make up a repair panel to the right curvature.
If it's any consolation mine looked a lot worse than yours (but you havent started digging yet)
put a wire brush on a drill give it a good clean and dig out that white sealer round rinner wheel arch when it all clean your know how bad the rust is then you can make up plates to be refixed and your have to reseal round inner arch
Hi Rob, Do both purchase a welding kit, Go to welding school and then practice on pieces of scrap sheet steel until you are confident of your work and have a go. There are several good DVDs availible on Mig welding. Welding must be done between two good clean pieces of metal so cut back until you have that and fabricate what you need. Anyway you will or should be taught that at school anyway. Practise many many times on scrap and you will pick it up. Persevere and Good Luck
Cheers Ian A
Get a 4.5" or 5" angle grinder and use a wire brush attachment.
That will tell you how much good metal you have there.
A small MIG (150amp) and as others have said practice first. Don't buy the disposable bottles, you are throwing your money away. Either Distillers (Pub style) or BOC / Air-Products.
can anyone advise are the attached pics of the rear wheel arch and rear seat plenum critical condition i.e DEFCON 1 or are we still at DEFCON 5:?
this will teach me to rip things out to replace, ignorance is bliss
is welding difficult?? :shock:i think i shall find out and just how expensive?? :shock:
Rob you might want to check your seat belt mountings. Dont look right mounted on that flimsy frame for the seat squab. Mine go through the arch and through the body in the centre of the tonneu storage. I could be wrong have been many time's in the past
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