Anyone had any experienve with the paddock rear wing repair panels

[Ian Durrant]

Another crack in the paint and when I started digging I found this. The metal underneath seems very ripply, but its odd because the arch itself doesn't appear to have any crash damage. Really a bit disappointing because I sent it in to a body shop to get some rust bubbles on the arch addressed so they must have known about this filler and had they mentioned it I would have had 3/4 panels done then!

I have a paddocks catalog and their repair panel JPS674 appears to go far enough above the swage in the panel to maybe correct this problem. Can anyone tell me if that looks likely and also what the fit of these sections is like?

[Gresley]

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Hi Ian,

I used those panels to repair mine but I cut them in two and only needed the rear half. I found the fit to be excellent and looking at my picture they seem to go high enough over the swage line to be useful to you.

Hope this helps

Brian

[jamcarr2]

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The reason it is ripply is the person that did the'' repair'' hit the wing with a hammer to make large dents so that it would take large amounts of filler to hide the rust long enough for him to cash the cheque :P

[Ian Durrant]

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Hi Brian,

Thanks but the repair panels you used are the arch lip panels, the JPS674 are from the rear edge of the door to just under the rear bumper from their sketch. It also shows they are above the swage line along 3/4 of the length of the rear wing from the door back, similar to these http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-907075RP

These don't look like they go far enough above the swage line to do the job but the paddocks sketch makes it appear that their ones do. Of course they could be the same panel.

kind regards
Ian

Also its not a rust repair, the metal underneath is sound :P

[Gresley]

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Hi Ian,

I thought these wre the panels you meant - sorry! The quality of these is excellent so I presume the others are as good.

Brian

[Ian Durrant]

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Thanks again Brian.

I notice in dasadrews bavarian stag thread the 3/4 repair panel from EJ ward, which would appear to pretty much solve my problem and look similar to the paddocks JPS674. If they are the same panel then I can probably take it they will fit reasonably well.

[Jeff]

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Ian Durrant wrote:

Another crack in the paint and when I started digging I found this. The metal underneath seems very ripply, but its odd because the arch itself doesn't appear to have any crash damage. Really a bit disappointing because I sent it in to a body shop to get some rust bubbles on the arch addressed so they must have known about this filler and had they mentioned it I would have had 3/4 panels done then!

I have a paddocks catalog and their repair panel JPS674 appears to go far enough above the swage in the panel to maybe correct this problem. Can anyone tell me if that looks likely and also what the fit of these sections is like?

Hello Ian,

Looks like the same repair was done to mine, excellent job but loads of filler.

[Jeff]

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I bought a 3/4 panel from Paddocks and initially wasn't too pleased with the quality and condition, but when fitted, looks ok. They didn't have SOCTFL in stock so I'd wait for the next side to come in and pay the extra.

Jeff.

[new to this]

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Jeff wrote:

I bought a 3/4 panel from Paddocks and initially wasn't too pleased with the quality and condition, but when fitted, looks ok. They didn't have SOCTFL in stock so I'd wait for the next side to come in and pay the extra.

Jeff.

J wards 3/4 repair panel also comes with the lower corner behind wheel arch

Dave

[stag estate man]

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hi
i bought 3/4 repair panals from wards they also include the whole part below the rear bumper to where it joins the rear valance the fit was excellent so highly recommend them
cheers grahame

[dasadrew]

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I can't imagine that there could be a better panel than the E.J.Ward one, although mine were not perfect:

a) the LH side one had a leading edge (where it tucks around the door pillar) which was absolutely dead straight, whereas it should be curved. I had to re-fold this flange using the door pillar as a guide.

b) the waist fold on the RH one was too severe. I had to try and flatten this a bit - not so easy and it left a couple of minor dents.

c) there were patched up imperfections in the actual steel sheet they had used !!!! Never come across that before. Sort of like the odd pulled thread you get if you buy "reject" jeans or whatever.

As the RH one had a perfect door pillar profile and the LH one a perfect crease angle, this shows that it was just poor workmanship which led to my quality deficits and not lack of knowledge!

The steel looked identical to the SOCTFL door skins which I bought, and I suspect they are made by the same outfit.

Just a tip: E.J.Wards pack their stuff extremely well. This led to them taping foam polystyrene blocks to the panels. I unfortunately put the panels in a corner of the garage for a few weeks before unpacking them to find there was loads of rust where the foam bits had been. I guess they transmitted moisture to the metal surface.

Apart from that everything went fine.

I am very happy to "support" EJ Wards as they do a lot of innovative stuff for Stags and deserve it (although the delays in getting stuff are sometimes, errrr, well.... LONG!). I think they are a victim of their own success!

[Ian Durrant]

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Many thanks Guys, i didn't realise that the E J Wards panels come with the lower rear section, that basically wipes out the cost advantage of the paddocks panel in this case, so I'll be going for the wards ones too.

[martin thaddeus]

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Hello There

I have fitted a few of these and infact have couple more to do this month.

The trick is to take you time setting the thing up for the best fit and dont make your final cut to the old panel until it is all square. Use Pk's or 1/8th pops as temporary fixings and be sure not to press on the panel as you weld as this will cause the new section to ride over the old and set up ripples.
Also don't allow the heat to build up. Place tacks as far apart as possible until they are about 1inch apart and then fill in using overlapping spots of mig. Again working in such a way as to keep the hot welds apart.
Some distortion is inevitable, but a large rubber block inside the panel used as a dolly is a nice way of easing things. A flat slapping tool or bumping file gives a diffuse blow without stretching.

Hope this is useful to you. Feel free to send a PM and I will talk you through the whole process if you like.

Regards Martin Thaddeus.

[martin thaddeus]

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Sorry Chaps my post keeps coming up twice and this is the best I can do to remove it!!!!