Broken setscrew removal - any tips?

[Rubce]

Hi All

Whilst reassembling the bootlid to the car today, one of the two small setscrews that secures the key lock mechanism snapped off:X.

Has anyone got any good tips for how to remove the broken section from the lid?

Thanks

Bruce

[new to this]

imported post

Can you get a pair of pliers or side cutters on whats left of the screw

If not it looks like drill it out or drill in to it and then with small screw driver tap it round tell it comes out good luck

Dave

[milothedog]

imported post

When I put my car back together they were really tight so I ran a tap through them, I can't remember if they were UNF or BA threads, I think there are nuts tack welded on the inside so if you run a drill through and re-tap it shouldn't be a problem. they are to small to try an easy-out in though.

Ian.

[Andy Rundell]

imported post

something like this:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/18643/Drill-Bits/Specialist-Drill-Bits/Screw-Extractor-Set?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Drill%20Bits-_-Screw%20Extractor%20Set

many alternatives available ranging from very small to very large - probably loads on ebay

.........Andy

[marshman]

imported post

Hi Bruce,

It all depends on why it sheared off. I asume if you were reassembling it was just a case of over zealous tightening as opposed to siezed with rust. so I assume that the remaining bit should be reasonably free in the thread. if that is the case I usually try the following:

1. use a scriber, or center punch with a "fine" point and try to unscrew it by tapping it round near the circumference of the remaining bit - if you can get access to it.

2. Use a 1/8th inch left hand drill bit. Center pop the middle and use an electric drill to drill into the screw. Hopefully the heat generated and the twisting force will unscrew it with you having to actually drill it.

3. use a small cold chisel to try to gouge a slot in the screw - not easy as it is small - if it is not too tight you can sometimes get a flat bladed screw driver to bite.

4. last resort!! drill it out and retap thehole. Not preferred as it is hard to get the exact center and often the screw is hardened so the drill wanders off.

Hope these ideas help.

Roger

[Rubce]

imported post

Hi Guys

Thanks for all the suggestions

It has broken off below the surface of the lid:?The hole and thread was clear as I had already had the setscrew in and out of the hole once. I believe the setscrew itself was to blame as I was not applying any great pressure. I should have bought new screws and not re-used the originals. What appeared to belight rust on the thread looks as if it was deeper than I thought.

Cheers

Bruce

[alan_thomas]

imported post

Andy Rundell wrote:

something like this:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/18643/...xtractor%20Set

many alternatives available ranging from very small to very large - probably loads on ebay

.........Andy

Andy, These 'EZout' taps look the job but practically I have never found them any good. The boot lock screws are very small so drilling a big enoughhole in the centre of the broken piece to take the smallest EZout means there is hardly any 'meat' left around the hole. When you screw in the EZout it spreads the remaining broken bolt and jams it harder. Then if you are not careful you apply more torque and the EZout tap breaks (they are hard and brittle and break with no warning). The problem is then 10x worse as you cannot drill thru the broken tap. IMO the only method is drilling out and retapping, if you destroy the thread then use a helicoil.

Drilling down the centre of a broken bolt is a skill worth learning! - Alan

[Andy Rundell]

imported post

alan_thomas wrote:

Andy Rundell wrote:

something like this:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/18643/...xtractor%20Set

many alternatives available ranging from very small to very large - probably loads on ebay

.........Andy

Andy, These 'EZout' taps look the job but practically I have never found them any good. The boot lock screws are very small so drilling a big enoughhole in the centre of the broken piece to take the smallest EZout means there is hardly any 'meat' left around the hole. When you screw in the EZout it spreads the remaining broken bolt and jams it harder. Then if you are not careful you apply more torque and the EZout tap breaks (they are hard and brittle and break with no warning). The problem is then 10x worse as you cannot drill thru the broken tap. IMO the only method is drilling out and retapping, if you destroy the thread then use a helicoil.

Drilling down the centre of a broken bolt is a skill worth learning! - Alan

hi Alan - agree about sizing - thats why i mentioned many different sizes/types /brands available - you can get some very small ones - but they may not have the strength if things are very firmly stuck......... may be worth a try before drilling out completely though

............Andy

[Rubce]

imported post

Yep, its a VERY small setscrew

Bruce

[john 4d]

imported post

Bruce,
Are they the two csk hd setscrews that hold the chrome fitting? Drill out with as small a drill as you can get and then work up through the sizes, I've been lucky several times even if the drill is not quite on ctr, it usually gets to the stage that the remains of the old screw falls out, then re-tap. I believe the screws were size 10-32 (5/32"?) UNF or something which almost exactly equates to M5, M5 screws are more readily available anyway.
Had two screws sheered off in the hood front rail that secure the locking levers, I think they are the same screws.

John4d

[new to this]

imported post

Rubce wrote:

Yep, its a VERY small setscrew

Bruce

when you do get the screws out LD parts sell them in stainless

Dave