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    #16
    imported post

    Klaus Schlüter wrote:
    XFSTag wrote:
    My Car suffered from this badly when I bought it............ felt like the steering wheel was loose, really nasty feel through the wheel:shock:

    Changed the track rod ends and the drop links (thanks for the advice Stu)together with the anti roll bar bushes and she is now a very different drive, not awobble :P

    All the other stuff brakes hubs and bottom joints were virtually new and just passed the MOT this week ( did I say that again :P).
    Hi XFSTag

    could you please explain or show which part is called "drop link"?

    Regards Klaus

    Klaus

    See Daves second picture the drop link is at the end of the roll bar. Not expensive to change and relatively easy too

    cheers

    glyn



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      #17
      imported post

      I found it's worth shopping around for track rod ends and anti-roll bar links, prices seem to vary alot for what appear to be the same items.

      Mine came from Peter at LD Parts.

      Dave
      Dave [ 1974 MkII - TV8 - BW35 Auto ]

      Comment


        #18
        imported post

        Yep got mine from there too


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          #19
          imported post

          The trick regarding centreing the BL alloys is to use tapered wheel nuts from the original steel wheels to centre the wheel and then to replace one at a time the wheel nuts for the alloys.A legnthy process,but it works& centres the alloy on the hub

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            #20
            imported post

            Anyone used Paddocks TRW y2k anti roll bar link, and what's the advantage over the initial one?

            Cheers....Al

            Comment


              #21
              imported post

              XFSTag wrote:

              Klaus

              See Daves second picture the drop link is at the end of the roll bar. Not expensive to change and relatively easy too

              cheers

              glyn


              Thanks Glyn. I will go this route.

              Klaus

              Comment


                #22
                imported post

                flying farmer wrote:
                Check the wheels are round

                Ok it sounds silly, but jack the car up and spin the wheels with a pointer to the edge of the wheel rim.

                In my experience at least half your wheels will be moving up and down as BL never managed to drill the wheel nut holes in the right places

                There is often enough movement on the studs to recentre the wheels before tightening, and you may find some of the hubs are off centre as well and turning the wheels round will improve the situation

                Of the 5 rims I bought for my stag 2 are good , 2 are usable with care, and the worse one is only fit for a spare. Oh the joys of 70's BL engineering:?

                Neil
                I had a bad wobble on mine when I first got the car ,replaced every thing and still the same ,then replaced one road wheel at a time with a different wheel I had and hey presto wobble gone

                JOHN
                MK 2 1977 FLAMENCO RED ,WEBER ,BELT DRIVEN WATER PUMP.

                Comment


                  #23
                  imported post

                  DaveB wrote:
                  I found it's worth shopping around for track rod ends and anti-roll bar links, prices seem to vary alot for what appear to be the same items.

                  Mine came from Peter at LD Parts.

                  Dave
                  Hi all

                  I followed Dave's advise and found for the tie rod ends the following prices:

                  LDparts Pounds 7,83--Paddock 11,60--Rimmer 13,50.

                  Are they the same items??? And how is it possible to manufacture, ship and sell such a complicated part for just 7,83? A casted or forged part with an inner thread, a ground (and hardened?) part with a ball and a cone and an outer thread with a lock nut, two plastic cups for the ball, a gaiter, a circlip and a cover. There are at least 2 companies earning money with, the manufacturer and the trader--from an engineering standpoint it seems to be impossible to do that in a good quality for this price as it is a low volume part.

                  Peter at LDparts has really an excellent reputation for his parts and I think I will place my order at him as I don`t know anything about the Paddock or Rimmer parts-but I am really worried.

                  Could some one please shed some light on this?

                  Klaus


                  Attached Files

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                    #24
                    imported post

                    Klaus Schlüter wrote:
                    DaveB wrote:
                    I found it's worth shopping around for track rod ends and anti-roll bar links, prices seem to vary alot for what appear to be the same items.

                    Mine came from Peter at LD Parts.

                    Dave
                    Hi all

                    I followed Dave's advise and found for the tie rod ends the following prices:

                    LDparts Pounds 7,83--Paddock 11,60--Rimmer 13,50.

                    Are they the same items??? And how is it possible to manufacture, ship and sell such a complicated part for just 7,83? A casted or forged part with an inner thread, a ground (and hardened?) part with a ball and a cone and an outer thread with a lock nut, two plastic cups for the ball, a gaiter, a circlip and a cover. There are at least 2 companies earning money with, the manufacturer and the trader--from an engineering standpoint it seems to be impossible to do that in a good quality for this price as it is a low volume part.

                    Peter at LDparts has really an excellent reputation for his parts and I think I will place my order at him as I don`t know anything about the Paddock or Rimmer parts-but I am really worried.

                    Could some one please shed some light on this?

                    Klaus

                    Hi Klaus,

                    Peter won't sell anything he wouldn't fit and use on his own 200,000-mile-plus Stag. He is able, through long experience in the parts supply industry, to identify quality at the right price. He also has fewer overheads than some of the main suppliers, so his margins are comparatively smaller.

                    The only question mark over this item is the new-fangled 'metric' thread and nut, but if you can stomach that, then I would have no fear of buying from him.

                    Dave
                    Dave
                    1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      imported post

                      Arbman Al wrote:
                      Anyone used Paddocks TRW y2k anti roll bar link, and what's the advantage over the initial one?

                      Cheers....Al
                      I fitted these much better movement and ploy bushing, the ball is also protected from the elements with a rubber boot like a track rod end.

                      Stuart

                      Comment


                        #26
                        imported post

                        Klaus Schlüter wrote:
                        DaveB wrote:
                        I found it's worth shopping around for track rod ends and anti-roll bar links, prices seem to vary alot for what appear to be the same items.

                        Mine came from Peter at LD Parts.

                        Dave
                        Hi all

                        I followed Dave's advise and found for the tie rod ends the following prices:

                        LDparts Pounds 7,83--Paddock 11,60--Rimmer 13,50.

                        Are they the same items??? And how is it possible to manufacture, ship and sell such a complicated part for just 7,83? A casted or forged part with an inner thread, a ground (and hardened?) part with a ball and a cone and an outer thread with a lock nut, two plastic cups for the ball, a gaiter, a circlip and a cover. There are at least 2 companies earning money with, the manufacturer and the trader--from an engineering standpoint it seems to be impossible to do that in a good quality for this price as it is a low volume part.

                        Peter at LDparts has really an excellent reputation for his parts and I think I will place my order at him as I don`t know anything about the Paddock or Rimmer parts-but I am really worried.

                        Could some one please shed some light on this?

                        Klaus

                        Hi Klaus

                        The ball in not ground it is burnished but the use of a rolling head or machine.

                        The thread should rolled as well if quality item as 10x stronger than cut threads so less likely to fail.

                        Rolling heads normal come from the company I work for which is Germany LMT Fette from near Hamburg.

                        Stuart

                        Comment


                          #27
                          imported post

                          After refurbishing the whole front suspension just after I purchased my Stag, I found it had a steering wheel wobble. I knew it was not the bushes or bearings as all were new and the wheels had just been balanced. To cut a long story short, I found that one of the tyres had a barely perceptible flat spot on the tyre, probably due to it standing in the one place on the tyre for too long. I found it by ensuring that the brake pads were fully clear of the disks and then spinning the wheels with the front jacked up of course. As the wheel spins, look at a fixed point on the floor or on the car as the wheel spins and you may see the tyre going in and out. Replaced with two new tyres and all was fine after that.

                          Hope this is understandable



                          Jim.

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