Front Strut - Dismantling

[StagnJag]

Hi All,

Does anyone have any tips on how to get the top nut out of the front struts? I have the spring compressed but I can't shift the castellated nut without the strut shaft rotating. If poss. I want to do it without replacing the damper.

Cheers

Dave

[rogerc]

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Mole grips on the strut shaft?

RogerC

[StagnJag]

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Hi Roger,

I've tried that with cardboard so I don't mark the chrome, I guess if I do it high enough it will be ok?

[rogerc]

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Been a while since I did mine, so to be honest can't remember how I did it.

But don't remember the castellated nut causing undue problems...

So long as springs are compressed and there is no pressure against the nut, should come off easily enough I would have thought. Maybe compress the springs a little more if you can?

[StagnJag]

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Hi Roger,

Springs are loose enough to move around freely so it isn't that. The nut and threads have no signs of rust, but look like some sort of thread lock was used. Can't see that making much difference though.

[Sheepdip]

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StagnJag wrote:

Hi Roger,

Springs are loose enough to move around freely so it isn't that. The nut and threads have no signs of rust, but look like some sort of thread lock was used. Can't see that making much difference though.

Is it the top nut youre'trying to get off or the ring that holds the damper in the container? If its the top nut, try not compressing the spring first until you've loosened it. Another way is to use an air gun on the nut, inertia tends to loosen it.

[StagnJag]

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Done it . I just needed to swear a lot while I was doing it! - Mole grips on the shaft without the cardboard. I just hope it is outside the travel of the damper!

Cheers

Rog.

[stag8manod]

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Hi StagnJag, As a suggestion for next time; find a piece of tube with a smooth bore as close as possible to the dia of the stru rod, cut it approx 30- 40mm long and then cut it length ways twice so you have two semi-circular pieces. Fit around the rod and then use the vise-grips. If it still slips use a second pair on the sleeve. This will prevent any damage to the rod.

Cheers Ian A

[StagnJag]

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Great tip, thank you. (I've still got the other side to do at some point so I will give it a go).

Cheers

Dave

[Bazstag]

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StagnJag wrote:

Great tip, thank you. (I've still got the other side to do at some point so I will give it a go).

Cheers

Dave

Do you want to borrow one of my shiny new spanners, Dave? :P

[StagnJag]

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Bazstag wrote:

StagnJag wrote:

Great tip, thank you. (I've still got the other side to do at some point so I will give it a go).

Cheers

Dave

Do you want to borrow one of my shiny new spanners, Dave? :P

[stagwingnut]

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abit late now dave ,but i always crack that nut open while the wheels arestill on the ground and the full weight of the car is enough to hold the the lot stillwhile you crack the nut with the steering lock on also ,same when reinstalling ,has always worked for me reguards graham

[StagnJag]

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Another great tip, Thank you. I will try that when I get around to the other side.

Cheers

Dave

[richardthestag]

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Sheepdip wrote:

Another way is to use an air gun on the nut, inertia tends to loosen it.

Worked for me... with strut still in place and the car on the ground. Air Impact wrench on top nut chonked away for 30 seconds before it shifted.

Wound nut back on a few turns and then removed strut, compressed spring and removed top mount. :dude:

[StagnJag]

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Sadly I don't have access to a compressor. (No garage so nowhere to keep one and nowhere outside to plug one in!)