Boot Lid Condensation

[Princejohny]

Hey Guys,

When I had my first Stag back in the eighties, it suffered from loads of condensation under the boot lid which dripped onto the carpet during the winter. A new boot seal made no difference. My current Stag which was last on the road in 2004 always had the same problemand that now I am restoring it, I have several holes in the boot corners to do. The cars lived outside. Is there any answer? Do you think it was water already in the boot causing the condensation or just the cold air on the metal?


Cheers Johny

[RogerP]

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Princejohny wrote:

Hey Guys,

When I had my first Stag back in the eighties, it suffered from loads of condensation under the boot lid which dripped onto the carpet during the winter. A new boot seal made no difference. My current Stag which was last on the road in 2004 always had the same problemand that now I am restoring it, I have several holes in the boot corners to do. The cars lived outside. Is there any answer? Do you think it was water already in the boot causing the condensation or just the cold air on the metal?


Cheers Johny

Johny

I have had the same problem on the odd occasion it's been left outside in certain weather, I think it's just condensation, you could try glueing some sound deadening pad under the boot lid.

Roger

[Princejohny]

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Roger

At least I'm not the only one. Good idea about insulation. I have to do some work on the boot lid due to rust getting under the paint at the corners. I have a spare fibreglass one that would be quicker to fix up. Not original but may be better insulated to live outside. Anyway else have a plastic boot?

Johny

[Moraystag]

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John try these, I bought last winter and they were really good. I put one in the engine bay one inside and one in the boot. My motor stands for a month at a time as I work away. The garage is not heated.

http://www.google.com/search?q=pingi%20dehumidifiers

Mike

Description



Pingi New Generation Dehumidifier Drying Bag 250 Grams.

Pingi
The frontrunner of the Pingi product line. Developed to protect your home, car, boat or caravan from the harmful effects of excess humidity. This product can be used for years on end. It absorbs 100cc of moist per cycle.


Requires 5 Minutes of recharging in the microwave oven.


Pingi basics
Rechargeable in the microwave
The Pingi moisture traps are easy to recharge in the microwave oven. When the patented indicator changes from blue to pink, full saturation has been reached and Pingi is ready to be recharged. Good for the environment and for your wallet. Within a few minutes, Pingi is again ready for use.

[Duncan Skye]

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Hi, Jonny,

I recall back in the eighties I had an early Audi 80 which would alsoform condensation on the bootlid. It seemed to occur when the weather changed from warm, humid and overcast, to cold. I guessed that the moisture absobed by the soft furnishings and fittings inside the car (and wet feet on the carpets) would be drawn to colder surfaces when the temperature dropped at night. Being unable to park the car into wind and win a spot of through-flow ventilation meant no gentle exchange of air inside the car overnight. If I recall right, the ventilation on that car only worked on the inside of the cabin, leaving the boot isolated, so I drilled a couple of one inch holes in the rear panel of the car behind the number plate. I packed the fixing screws with a couple of thick washers behind the number plateto getit to stand out a littlefrom the body panel, and that seemed to help. Certainly after a journey the boot was always dry.

[mikethemechanic]

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problem of condensation on on inside of boot door was a problem from new Triumph suggested cutting two areas of seal to allow air circulation. The areas were approx 1 inch wide either side of lock equidistant between lock and wings.

more important is that the condensation runs via the boot strengthening to the rear edge of the boot panel causing the rust that is common on boot rear edge. the way to help this is to drillholes in the rear panel to let the water drain,i.e outer edge rearmost point in the panels where no platelamps fit on mk2

[Andy Rundell]

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common problem, many opt for the kind of moisture traps that Mike has suggested - a while ago someone mentioned something similar from a camping shop for caravans with the same problem which sounded like an excellent idea.

Insulation on the underside of the boot lid will help to.

.........Andy

[Guest]

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Warm air has the ability to hold more moisture than cold air. Condensation forms where moisture ladened air meets a surface which is colder than the air. This cools the air, reducing it's ability to hold the water and, hey presto, the moisture vapour is dumped and you see condensation.

The key to preventing this in a car is to trace and eliminate where moisture enters, and dry it out. Permanent ventilation will then help control any future problems.

Fixing insulation under the lid will stop the condensation forming at that point but is not eradicating the problem. the moisture is stil there and fill simply form elsewhere. Drilling drain holes or using moisture absorbing bags help but are not addressing the main problem.

[Rubce]

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Hmmm, I suspect that attaching insulation to the underside of the boot lid will simply speed up the corrosion process:shock:. It willabsorb moisture and retain it against the metal

Bruce

[new to this]

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my boot lid is rotten at the moment a winter project i have the repair panels

is the boot lid ment to have drain holes in the corners

Dave

[Rubce]

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Dave

Does this photo assist you?

Bruce

[STAG1973]

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This seems common on saloon cars all the cars i have had always have condensation on the underside regardless of make and model.

Adrian

[new to this]

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Rubce wrote:

Dave

Does this photo assist you?

Bruce

thanks bruce

i see all the drain holes are on the back half of the boot andNO DRAIN HOLESwhere they usually rust by the numberplate lights and front corners

Dave