LAMP DIMMER RHEOSTAT

[Hantsdave]

Hi, everyone,

Bit of help required please.

I've read previous posts on dimming lights etc but not found this problem before. My dash/instrument lights have never been very bright so I replaced the rheostat. On first testing it seemed to work for 1 second then went dim again and I lost the illumination in the gear selector panel. All fuses seem ok so I was wondering if it could be an inline ballast resistor playing up or something else.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks

David.

[DJT]

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David,

The instrument lighting has never been bright. IMHO the rheostat is a waste of space. It is never on anything other than max. Having said that, mine has a 'dead spot' right on max, where the lights go out. Turn it back a little bit and the lights come on. Keep turning and they dim.

When I had the dash instruments (Mk1) out for cleaning a few years ago, I painted the inside of the instrument cans with white primer. This improved the brightness a lot. Some people have used LED lights to get a brighter display.

Are you sure the rheostat you fitted is OK? Have you tried going back to the original one?

FWIW One of the Triumph suppliers makes a nice engine start button which goes in place of the rheostat. Adds a little modern day drama as well as reducing the stress on the ignition switch.

Dave

[Hantsdave]

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Thanks Dave,

I did see your earlier post on this, I appreciate your thoughts. It doesn't, however, explain why I have lost the illumination in the gear selector panel. Can anyone explain that?

Thanks

Dave.

[seaside bill]

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Dave

I suspect that's a localised problem e.g. connection or festoon bulb in the panel. Take it out and have a look - it's a quick, easy job to remove.

[Andy Rundell]

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DJT wrote:

When I had the dash instruments (Mk1) out for cleaning a few years ago, I painted the inside of the instrument cans with white primer. This improved the brightness a lot. Some people have used LED lights to get a brighter display.

I was thinking of LED's for mine - hadn't considereda coat of while paint to help as well - good idea, thanks Dave

[KOY 23]

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I bought some 30 degree and 100 degree LED's with MES bases from e bay, this week. Just been out and fitted them. Cannot see any difference between either of them or the original bulbs.

John

[Andy Rundell]

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KOY 23 wrote:

I bought some 30 degree and 100 degree LED's with MES bases from e bay, this week. Just been out and fitted them. Cannot see any difference between either of them or the original bulbs.

John

Oh dear - maybe just the paint will do for me then ! - on the bright (no pun intended) side you'll be drawing less current !

cheers.....Andy

[NickA]

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DJT wrote:

David,

Having said that, mine has a 'dead spot' right on max, where the lights go out. Turn it back a little bit and the lights come on. Keep turning and they dim.

Isn't it supposed to do that? Mine also go out just after the max brightness setting.

[NickA]

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[Andy Rundell]

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NickA wrote:

DJT wrote:

David,

Having said that, mine has a 'dead spot' right on max, where the lights go out. Turn it back a little bit and the lights come on. Keep turning and they dim.

Isn't it supposed to do that? Mine also go out just after the max brightness setting.

I'm pretty sure it shouldn't - but they often do behave that way

[NickA]

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Andy Rundell wrote:

NickA wrote:

DJT wrote:

David,

Having said that, mine has a 'dead spot' right on max, where the lights go out. Turn it back a little bit and the lights come on. Keep turning and they dim.

Isn't it supposed to do that? Mine also go out just after the max brightness setting.

I'm pretty sure it shouldn't - but they often do behave that way

Just checked in the manual, after all it is Friday and I'm bored at work.

"From the off position (fully anti-clockwise), turn the switch clockwise to illuminate the instruments at high intensity, and further clockwise to diminish intensity."

So there you have it another piece of Stag trivia

[Hantsdave]

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Thanks everyone for the useful comments.

But.......my rheostat works the same way as described by others here...so far, so good. What I can't bottom out is why my selector lights went out a split second after fitting the new rheostat, there must be a link surely?

More head scratching please gents.....

Thanks

Dave.

[NickA]

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Hantsdave wrote:

Thanks everyone for the useful comments.

But.......my rheostat works the same way as described by others here...so far, so good. What I can't bottom out is why my selector lights went out a split second after fitting the new rheostat, there must be a link surely?

More head scratching please gents.....

Thanks

Dave.

According to the wiring diagram the auto selector lights runs off the rheostat via the same cable as the cigarette lighter illumination. So does the cigarette lighter light up? I'd also swap this connector on the rheostat with the main instrument illumination as see what happens. It'll show if you've a faulty connector on the rheostat.

[Gresley]

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My instrument illumination goes out with the rheostat fully clockwise too. The same happens on my PI Estate. And yes, the illumination on the PI is DIM!

[brian0443]

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I had to change my battery last year. One of the unexpected bonuses was that the illumination lights suddenly got a lot brighter. I also have an alternator problem. Charge initially stays around the 12 volt mark, but when it eventually rises to the 13+ , all the lights, including the illumination ones become very considerably brighter. Illumination is not as good as on modern cars, fewer lights etc, but a check of charging rate and battery condition might work wonders

Brian