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    Ballast Resistor help

    On dismantling my Stag, I noticed the ballast resistor attached to the bulkhead, with fairly loose black wires conneting it to coil / interior. The wires had been coiled and sort of hang loose in the engine bay. This all looked very heath robinson and got me thinking whether a BR was standard in a 1974 Stag.

    On searching around I have seen a couple of time that Mk2 didn't have a BR, but equally a few posts mentioning them. Can anyone tell me either definitively or where I can look this up?

    BTW on rebuilding the car I will upgrade to electronic ignition, with either the Lumenition or Pertronix type system.

    Nigel

    #2
    imported post

    The BR on a Mk2 was not visible as a component; but was built into the wiring harness using special resistance wire.

    Comment


      #3
      imported post

      So this isn't built in to the loom I guess.....


      Comment


        #4
        imported post

        It's not unknown for the loom ballast wire to overheat and melt the insulation, so then the easiest thing to do to get the car going again is revert to the early external resistor.

        At the coil + you should on a Mk2 have 2 wires - a white pink which is the ballast wire, and a white yellow which is the ballast bypass 12v "cold start" wire from the starter motor.

        You should have a close look and see what you have at the coil, but it looks like Billy the Bodger has been playing under your bonnet and it should be at least tidied up and make sure it is safe.

        Russ

        Comment


          #5
          imported post

          Thanks Kryten

          Don't worry - I am stripping with whole car. Funnily enoough, when I removed the dashboard and main loom inside the car there is a pink and white wire exposed through where the loom runs under the dash. I am tempted to strip the whole loom insulation tape and replace this wire.

          Feels like another job I hadn't really planned - re wiring / binding the loom :shock:

          Comment


            #6
            imported post

            If you are replacing it, and want to be the original type of ballast rather than the external one, please remember it is a special nichrome wire......

            The good old classic mini (post 84 but pre EFI) had the wire as a seperate, replaceable part of the loom so you could bind one of those in, assuming someone still has the part in stock.....

            Comment


              #7
              imported post

              Mines a Mk 2 but it's been rebuilt and has a Rover lump.

              I am having trouble starting it and have discovered the coil is for a V6 Ford - it also has a BR.

              This is how it looks .....

              [img]

              Does the wiring look right?

              Comment


                #8
                imported post

                Bad angle, but I think no it's not.

                White yellow must go to coil plus, and also be connected to the tiny terminal on the starter motor, and yours looks like it might be in the wrong place - it should bypass the resistor when the starter is cranking by adding a direct 12v supply to the coil +, giving you a stronger spark.

                Despite coil for a V6 Ford, as long as it's a 6v coil it will still do the job on a Buick lump.


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                  #9
                  imported post

                  Changing the topic slightly, I noticed in the photo that Nigelboy posted of his engine bay that there is a vertical coil spring to the right of the ignition coil which connects up to the carb linkage. My car doesn't have one of those:shock:. Is that a standard feature as I can't see it in the Rimmers catalogue.

                  Regards

                  Bruce

                  Comment


                    #10
                    imported post

                    Bruce

                    I wouldn't use my car as a reference point (...yet). The carbs / throttle linkages have a few issues and with broken link rods, a couple of bits of wire holding bits together and random springs. 'Billy the Bodger' had a lot of custom from the POs

                    BTW does anyone know who can help to repair re-bind wiring looms - I can't seem to find any "suppliers" from a few searches?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      imported post

                      Nigeyboy wrote:
                      BTW does anyone know who can help to repair re-bind wiring looms - I can't seem to find any "suppliers" from a few searches?
                      Hi Nigel

                      I used this stuff when I built my own harness earlier this year:-



                      If you can afford it, go for the PIB tape. We use it at work on Trains and its good stuff

                      Regards

                      Bruce

                      Comment


                        #12
                        imported post

                        Looms are bound with plain PVC tape which you can get fromVWP or similar suppliers. This is not a difficult job. Finish the ends with sticky PVC tape.

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                          #13
                          imported post

                          Or better still Twistwrap sleeving, its ACE. Again, I used it on my car.



                          Bruce

                          Comment


                            #14
                            imported post

                            Bruce



                            Did you use the twistwrap sleeving and tape on top in the same part of the loom - sort of belt and braces I guess. Or, were they for different applications?

                            I know I will have to replace the pink / white ballast wire as it has been cut off where the loom opens up to go to the coil and appears burnt through under the dash area.

                            I think I have a few other "scotchblock mods - " to put right too.

                            Nigel

                            Comment


                              #15
                              imported post

                              Hi Nigel

                              I used the Twistlock for the long runs and then used cloth tape on top of it at the points where wires entered/exited out of simply to hold them in place.

                              Bruce

                              Comment

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