Varnishing Dashboard

[Camo]

I got myself a dash at Stoneleigh and have fitted it with a view to restoring my original dash.

I have got most of the old varnish off using a chisel (with great care) and am close to being ready to give a light sanding then re varnishing.

any tips from others who have done it ?

how many coats etc...

thanks

Stuart

[brian0443]

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Probably a bit late to mention it now but apparently the varnish comes off quite easily if you heat it with a hair dryer.

[Guest]

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Stuart, i did mine the easy/expensive way. I had one re veneered by chapman and cliff. It looks absolutely fantastic (shows the rest of me car up!) If i'd have done it my self i wouldnt even be awarded a blue peter badge:P

I would post a picture but this doesnt seem to work.

Jason

[seaside bill]

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Stuart

I've made several DIY attempts at this over the years and have never been pleased with the results. It always irks me to pay for something I think I should be able to do f myself, but in this case I'd recommend sending it to a professional and getting it reveneered (the original will be faded/bleached by the sun) as well as varnished.

Tips from my miserable failed attempts:

• go easy with the sanding - the veneer is wafer thin and you'll soon be down to the plywood.
• don't use varnish from your local DIY store - go for a cold -cure specialist lacquer like Rustin's Plastic Coating.
• If you apply a new veneer, make sure it's thoroughly glued to the backing board otherwise it may blister when you apply the lacquer/varnish.
• Build up several thin coats of lacquer/varnish - at least 4.

Also, is the varnish you're removing coloured (mine was)? If so, you'll need to match it for the right finish.

Good luck

[Mark S]

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Rustins Plastic Coat is deffinitely the way to go as it isn't supposed to yellow over time. The secret is to build up lots of thin coats, (12+) then allow to cure for several months before cutting back with wet&dry on a flat block, finishing with 2000 grade, then burnishing to the desired sheen.

Mark

[Camo]

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thanks folks, I will have a look for this Rustin stuff.

I have pretty much run out of money now so need to start doing jobs myself again, I reckon anything is better than the dash I had, it was literally flaking off in chunks !



Stuart

[Camo]

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Heres the dash getting its first coat, I am using Ronseal Walnut stain varnish to give the colour I wanted and will try to get some clear varnish, I could not find any Rustin and am too impatient to keep looking, I want it back in the car in the next few weeks.

Stuart

[seaside bill]

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Stuart

Get your Rustin's from Here

[Camo]

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Heres the dash all back in the car, Its not the £350 effort but I prefer the aged look of a 70's motor, I want my car to look old if you know what I mean, not just a new looking old car, but to feel old

Stuart

[Guest]

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I want my car to look old if you know what I mean, not just a new looking old car, but to feel old

Stuart


What about the driver??:P

Jason


P.s, dash looks good!

[jbuckl]

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I used 20 coats of rustins this winter, flatting between coats... well worth the £30:00 for the rustins.

Its 2 pack, and bakes dry to flat in12 mins.

The stripping was the longest part 2-2.5 hrs each piece!

Used £4:00 letraset for the hazard and brake text. looks like original unless your very very close.

[seaside bill]

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jbuckl wrote:

The stripping was the longest part 2-2.5 hrs each piece!

If you're very impatient (like me) you can speed the process up by power sanding the old varnish off. This will inevitably damage the underlying veneer, but you can then apply new teak (or whatever) veneer. It's cheap to buy - but not as easy as I thought to fit! However, I reckon second time I'd make a better job of it by dampening the veneer before using PVA glue and applying pressure with clamps.

[John]

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I too rather dislike the super-glossy "new" appearance. In the end, I opted for good old French Polish. I can get as much or as little depth/shine as want (provided I'm willing to put in the elbow grease). I've gone for a mild lustre. Even the re-veneering wasn't as onerous a task as I was expecting, though I doubt the finish would ever be up to show standard. With the veneer and polish it took me two weekends and about £20.

[John]

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..forgot to say, I used a "sheet" of glue from the same people that supplied the wood. Just cut to shape, peel off the backing, sandwich between the veneer and the base, apply heat and it's stuck.

[jbuckl]

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"Stuart

I've made several DIY attempts at this over the years and have never been pleased with the results. It always irks me to pay for something I think I should be able to do f myself, but in this case I'd recommend sending it to a professional and getting it reveneered (the original will be faded/bleached by the sun) as well as varnished.

Tips from my miserable failed attempts:

• go easy with the sanding - the veneer is wafer thin and you'll soon be down to the plywood.
• don't use varnish from your local DIY store - go for a cold -cure specialist lacquer like Rustin's Plastic Coating.
  
• If you apply a new veneer, make sure it's thoroughly glued to the backing board otherwise it may blister when you apply the lacquer/varnish.
  
• Build up several thin coats of lacquer/varnish - at least 4.

If you're very impatient (like me) you can speed the process up by power sanding the old varnish off. This will inevitably damage the underlying veneer, but you can then apply new teak (or whatever) veneer. It's cheap to buy - but not as easy as I thought to fit! However, I reckon second time I'd make a better job of it by dampening the veneer before using PVA glue and applying pressure with clamps."

Seaside Bill:- sounds like you found out how not to do it...

Patience or paying someone for their time is the only way!

Its been a long haul over the winter, but quite satisfying compared to some jobs.