Hi,lads and lassies,greeting from Ireland.Is there anyone around or north of Dublin who has a pullers for the rear hubs.I have tryed a hyd. pullers allready but it did not pop and I did not like to put too much force incase the wheel flange bent.regards Tom.:?
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Hi Tom ,Sorry cant help with the puller but welcome to the forum .
Cheers Steve
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Only think that sifted mine (mk1) was the hydrolic press at my local tractor repair workshop
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Where are you Tom, If you are in or around South London I may be able to help.
Ian.Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpicComment
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milothedog wrote:"Hi,lads and lassies,greeting from Ireland"Where are you Tom, If you are in or around South London I may be able to help.
Ian.
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Thanks chaps so far. As stated, I have tryed a hyd. press allready.I was wondering would heat be any help.Also would the registrar have a list of irish members.Comment
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That'll teach me to read threads properly in future:shock:
Mind you he may come over for his Christmas shopping and could bring it with him
Ian.
Tried, cold, & Blonde (Grey really)
Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpicComment
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Dear Alvis tom
I am just thinking ahead to if and when you manage to locate a BL rear Hub Puller,
I have the genuine BL tool (made by Churchill), and used it in 1990 when rebuilding my drive -shaft assemblies.
Tip no 1,.............even when you use this genuine BL puller, you may still need to applyRAPID heat to assist the puller,.....(a plumbers blowlamp will NOT suffice!), acetylene gear would be good.
Tip no 2,...........Before setting up the puller, if there is a split-pin hole at the end of threaded stub-shaft, be sure to block this up with a tight fitting parallel pin (otherwise, the pressure exerted by the puller will crush and deform the hole. Even with this hole blanked, the end of this threaded stub-shaft can easily be deformed if the assembly proves megga hard to "Split". If this happens, you can (if your lucky) saw the deformed end off and fit a Nyloc nut.
Tip no 3,..............Some other Triumphs > TR 4A, 2000, 2500, 2.5PI at least, used the same drive-shafts.
Tip no 3,.............When re-assembling,......set the end-float to the "snug" end of the specified tolerance,
I hope this helps ? Happy Staggering
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alvis tom wrote:Hi,lads and lassies,greeting from Ireland.Is there anyone around or north of Dublin who has a pullers for the rear hubs.I have tryed a hyd. pullers allready but it did not pop and I did not like to put too much force incase the wheel flange bent.regards Tom.:?
Tom
I recently changed my rear bearings, and I had to make up a 35mm thick plate to support the rear drive flange. I also had to make up a 5/8th UNF protector for the threaded part of the stub axle so that I did not damage the thread when using the press. It took approx 17 ton to brake the taper on the first hub but approx 22 ton before the second one went.You need 30 ton press and some thick bit of steel to brake the taper on these rear hubs sometimes.
Best of luck
Les.
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Welcome aboard Tom.
Have a look at this thread. http://stagownersclub.mywowbb.com/vi...light=rear+hub
PM sent re Irish scene
Brian
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Good stuff in the replys chaps.As a farmer all my life I will not let a little taperded shaft get the better of me. The advise to fill the cotter pin hole before compression is very sound and noted.The main problem is distortion and so it's good to talk and go slow.I'm really looking foward to hearing the engine instead of the back end.Comment
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