Side Stripes and polishing

[Dave M]

Recently had my car painted and left the side stripes off as I wanted some time to decide whether or not to refit them. I am 99% certain now that I will refit the stripes and wondered if anyone had any tips for instance how to keep the line straight along the length of the car etc.

Also can anyone recommend any products for giving the paint a polish before I fit the stripes. I have a professional type polisher and the new paint has been wet flatted and polished but just wanted to give ita final goingover before fitting the stripes and bumpers.

Dave

[Marco Polo]

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G'day Dave,

Happy new Year!

When I replaced mine after the respray, I polished the car and then ran a string line from front to rear of the car. I used this as a guide to then remove the polish and degrease the sides of the car using a degreasing liquid where the stripe was to be fitted. I then ran a strip of masking tap along the top of the string line so I could double check the straightness and location of where I wanted the stripe to run. I found using the masking tape easier to act as a guide because the string line was forced away from the rear wings by the rear arch lips.

Hope this helps,

regards,

Raoul

[milothedog]

imported post

Hi Dave, I would use some Frecla G10 with your machine just to give it a final finish. I would also fit the stripes before applying any polish or wax. Re fitting the stripe I have always stuck it at one end first with a bit of masking tape at the rear and knelt down at the front and looked along the length of the car until it looked right before removing any backing tape from the stripe. It's also worth getting someone to put more masking tape to hold it once you've lined it up.

A scapulae with a nice new blade it is also good for the final trimming.

Ian.

[nib]

imported post

Hi Dave

On the long run position your stripes on the front wing where they start while someones holding the lines in correct position under door handle taut,get the lines started,undo backing paper and bring stripes onto body,keeping them taut all the time,the stripes never want to be more than a fingers width away from the bodywork at the door handle,then onto the rear quarter panel.

As for polish I find Mer one of the best.

Mark

[XFSTag]

imported post

Hi Dave

If your using a rotary polisher, I have found the 3M's system to be the best (perfect it range) They do a final polish which when used with the matchingbluepad gives a top finish and removes any haze or hologram marks etc.I have tried many polishes as my other motors are blackand this is the very best for the job imo. I also use their extra fine compound which removesswirls as long as they aren't too deep. I did have the Farcela compounds but found the 3M gear better and resultson dark cars were A1,which tend toshow up everything. I did the stag with this and the results were first class, so good for Topaz too .

On waxing Carnuba productsgive a great finish but tend to have a shorter life than others. I use one called R222 which has a high carnauba content. Gives a superb finish on all my motors.

Hope this helps mate, look forward to seeing some pictures when your done

Cheers

Glyn

[roadrunner]

imported post

Dave, two bits from me FWIW:

- wet the body with strong-ish water/washing up liquid mixture, you can apply the stripes and reposition. They WILL stick permanently after drying out

- G10 and the finest mop you can get (AutoGlym do one), there are demo videos on You Tube under Farecla, well worth viewing before you start

Cheers

Geoff

[Dave M]

imported post

Thanks for all the replies guys once again the forum proves its worth.

Following on from my post re the polishing, the polisher I have access to is a rotary type (basically a grinder with speed control). Ive been looking on the Internet and one or two people on there are saying these are not good and can easily burn through the paint:X. They recommend an orbital type polisher which is basically a grinder type machine with an additional gearbox that allows the head to oscillate rather than just rotate. Any views/adviceon the type of polisher to use?

Dave

[scarts]

imported post

Dave M wrote:

Thanks for all the replies guys once again the forum proves its worth.

<cut> Ive been looking on the Internet and one or two people on there are saying these are not good and can easily burn through the paint:X. </cut>
Dave

No personal experience but I recall seeing a youtube video (no youtube access from work so cannot get link ) about adetailer who tested the theory as to how much you have to polish using a regular grinder (i.e. circular motion only) before any 'burn' through actually occurs and he came to the conclusion that you would have to almost wear out the polishing pad and would definately end up with a sore arm in order to get to that state. Basically it's manufacturers being over cautious.

Saying that, I'd probably want to spare my anxious nerves and go safe all the same.

SteveC

[milothedog]

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Hi Dave,

I have/use a rotary machine, I find as long as your careful, stay away from edges and ridges you will be OK. I also have a spray bottle full of water to hand to keep the compound from going dry when polishing. you shouldn't hear the polisher labouring either as this is when you risk going through the paint.



Ian.

[XFSTag]

imported post

Hi Dave

The biggest enemy is heat build up if you dwell in a particular area, this can be reduced by the use of the right pad and speed. Waffle pads seem to shed the excess heat better hence I use 3m ones although there are many others mateThe orbital polishers are ok but take much longer to do the job imho. I have one of them which I never use now!

I have been using a rotary for some time and have yet to have a problem. Modern cars are worse with their plastic bumpers which heat up very quick. Start on a slow speed with a fine finishingcompound and work an area about 1 foot sq. do a 2-4 passes and you will get a feel for whats going on. You only use the weight of the tool don't feel you need to apply pressure and as said earlier don't work on the edges to much I tend to prop the bonnet up a couple of inches to avoid the wing tops. Also if you have to soft top up cover it (and anything else)as you get a fair bit of spatter now and again.New paint takes a while to fully harden so take your time. I normally finish it with a hand glaze which gives it a final bit of wow before waxing!

Here's a link to a detailing forum which goes on to explain using a rotary in detail which may be of help buddy .. have a coffee ready as it a long read http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=66024

Here's the bonnet of my old girl after I spent a day on her, well worthwhile.

Topaz does come up lovely :P