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    Towing a Stag

    Still can't get mine to start properly It turns over and seems to start to fire but never catches. The voltage seems a bit eratic even after replacing the coil and BR. Current thinking is maybe the fuel pump isn't getting a steady voltage.

    Anyway the local garage came up and tried to start it using all the "tricks" that worked before, but with no joy.

    They want to get it to their workshop which is about 2 miles from me. As it's an auto, I know these aren't meant to be towed, and I can get it "recovered" to there for about £30. As it's only a couple of miles I would take the risk of towing it AT ABOUT 20MPH MAX but can't really see where its best to tow from. It looks like if the front chassis / ARB is used, the towing strap will foul the valance and I can't see an actual towing point.

    Any ideas?....yes spend £30 I know!

    #2
    imported post

    AA or RAC?

    Comment


      #3
      imported post

      Best not to tow even if its only 2 miles.

      Rv8? Unreliable?

      Inhibitor?

      Check:- Fuel delivery on cranking, spark present on cranking, cylinder compressions, ignition timing, valve timing, firing order, engine to body earth &cranking speed & unmetered air-leaks.

      Should start after these have been checked out, or part way through.

      Both lower arms for winching / towing ~ must link to a low point on winching / towing vehicle though.


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        #4
        imported post

        If you really must tow it disconnect the prop shaft and tie it up out the way

        Ian.
        Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic

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          #5
          imported post

          I have fitted on my Stag a front towing bracket. It is a piece of angle iron with 2 holes drilled in it one hole attaches it to the front bumper mounting on one side and the other on the other angle is low enough to clear the bumper. It will take a towbar or a shackle. I would not recommend it for any great distance but I have had to use it for a couple of miles with no problem. When time permits I plan to make a more structually sound bracket using both the bumper mounting holes on one side. Sorry no photo's.

          Comment


            #6
            imported post

            Cheers chaps, and good idea about the prop Ian.

            I think I will take the £30 recovery - though it pains me to.

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              #7
              imported post

              Hello,

              One of the first things I added to my Stag was a front towing bracket and needed it three times already...I will try to attach a photo.

              Kind regards, Dieter.
              Attached Files

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                #8
                imported post

                Dieter H. Marschall wrote:
                Hello,

                One of the first things I added to my Stag was a front towing bracket and needed it three times already...I will try to attach a photo.

                Kind regards, Dieter.
                Hi Dieter

                Like it, did you drill some new holes to mount it or where they there already?

                Rogerp
                1974 ZF Gearbox, Minilite Wheels, Electric Water Pump, Quick Release Steering Wheel, Central Locking & Window Closing

                Comment


                  #9
                  imported post

                  Hello Roger,

                  I used the existing holes and just longer bolts to fix this bracket. There are two U-shaped irons welded to the loop.

                  On my TR6 I welded the loop directly on the frame.

                  Kind regards, Dieter.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    imported post

                    Dieter H. Marschall wrote:
                    Hello Roger,

                    I used the existing holes and just longer bolts to fix this bracket. There are two U-shaped irons welded to the loop.

                    On my TR6 I welded the loop directly on the frame.

                    Kind regards, Dieter.
                    Hi Dieter

                    Thanks for that..................Thats another job for later this year.

                    Rogerp
                    1974 ZF Gearbox, Minilite Wheels, Electric Water Pump, Quick Release Steering Wheel, Central Locking & Window Closing

                    Comment


                      #11
                      imported post

                      Thanks Dieter. That looks good.

                      Ian

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                        #12
                        imported post

                        Ian.
                        Could be a complete shot in the dark but worth trying. Check out ALL of the earth connections between the body/battery and the engine. If you can put a good voltmeter between the earth lug of the battery and a really good clean point on the engine and then get someone to crank the engine, you should in a perfect world see nothing, but a few milli volts is fine if its any more than that then you've got an earth problem. if the volts are high enough then the coil will not have enough volts across it to work. Remember just a 0.1 ohm resistance at 100Amps or more is 10 Volts not much left for the coil!!
                        Worth a try.

                        Paul

                        Comment


                          #13
                          imported post

                          Thanks Paul

                          Comment

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