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    Driveshafts

    Hi,

    I've just remove one of the driveshafts and found movement in the spline that I can feel/hear and just about see, so I reckon I need some new or reconditioned ones - and that's my question - what should I buy?

    I'm tempted by the idea of new shafts and alternatively by the price and convenience of reconditioned complete shaft assemblies including the bearings. Different suppliers seem to supply different components, some uprated by a coating on the splines, some appear to have UJs already fitted and the complete recon ones are, I assume, complete, though I wonder if the splines are acually reconditioned (how?) or if they just try to find a good matching unworn inner and outer.

    What are your experiences and recommendations for quality of part and minimum hassle fitting. By the way,it's a mk2 with circlips on all UJs.

    Thanks, John.

    #2
    imported post

    What about some good S/H ones, they are about from people like Les Clark on E-bay, I bought a complete pair from him including hubs, and the diff input shafts to upgrade mine to the circlip type, I think I paid about £70 including delivery.

    Ian.
    Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic

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      #3
      imported post

      The best bet is Datsun driveshafts, I got mine from tonypy1, but I'm not sure that he is doing any more as they are getting difficult to find these days. The next best is the Rilsan coated ones, I'm sure someone who has them will be along in a bit..
      ZF 4 spd box, Datsun shafts, SS exhaust, 38DGMS weber 158.9bhp, BMW MC Tomcat seatssigpic

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        #4
        imported post

        I'm tempted by the Rilsan coated ones, and I've just had a bit of practice fitting UJs on my propshaft so I'm getting a bit quicker at that! I think my rear hubs are ok so I should probably keep them and just fit new shafts. Just got to find the best place to get them.

        john.

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          #5
          imported post

          I have the Rilsan coated ones which Paddocks sell and so far have found them to be excellent. More expensive than 2nd hand Stag shafts, but all traces of twitching and clunking have gone.


          BTW as I understand it the complete assembly is new.


          Brian

          Drive a Stag every day... it's wonderful!

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            #6
            imported post

            John,

            Good questions. There are many 'reconditioned' driveshafts about. Some will change the U/Js and give everything a coat of shiny paint. Others will do a good job of the hub bearings as well. But I don't know of anyone who has the ability to do anything about worn splines.

            Having said that, is the movement you can sense/hear/feel/see in your splines because they are dry? You may find that when they are packed with grease (graphite type or CV joint grease is best) that they become much quieter.

            It is possible to fit grease nipples to the female section so that fresh grease can be pumped in periodically. I found that, with practice,it only took about half an hour to strip the outer section out through the suspension arm, re-grease and re-fitonce a year so didn't see the need to fit nipples.

            Two-and-a-half years ago I bought some 'Datsun' shafts from tonypy1 and haven't had to bother with maintenance on them since.

            The new Rilsan-coated ones are probably the best option if yours are shot and Datsun ones aren't available.

            Dave
            Dave
            1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

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              #7
              imported post

              DJT wrote:
              Having said that, is the movement you can sense/hear/feel/see in your splines because they are dry? You may find that when they are packed with grease (graphite type or CV joint grease is best) that they become much quieter.

              Dave, there seems to be plenty of grease around the splines, it's grey - not sure if that's because it's full of worn splines or because of graphite.

              When I took it off the car I noticed the movement and noise by twisting the ends of the shaft relative to each other, so I seperated the inner and outer and tried twisting the individual end UJs -no movement, so I put the spline back together and at first the movement that I'd seen before wasn't obvious, but aftersliding the spline in and out a few times and twisting again the movement was back, I assume the reassembly moved the grease around enough to mask or cushion the movement, but it then got squeezed out again.

              John.

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                #8
                imported post

                I fitted the GKN rilsan coated driveshafts years ago and must have covered 40,000 miles on them. They transformed the car andare still as good as the day I fitted them. I wouldn't hesitate to do the same again.

                I am not sure how the reconDatsun shafts are any better but either will be a huge improvement on worn originals.



                Pete

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                  #9
                  imported post

                  I can do brand new Rilsan ones considerably cheaper than the main suppliers e.g. Paddocks sell them for £290 a pair with UJs but without rebuilt hubs. PM me if you want any more info etc.

                  The main reason I have stopped doing the Datsun shafts, apart from the whole process being hugely time-consuming, is that the Rilsan shafts are so good in service. I m not really into spending hours rebuilding driveshafts anymore but could sort out a few moree sets (Rilsan) if anyone was interested.

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                    #10
                    imported post

                    I have a pair of Tonys' brand new drive shafts, they've been on the car 18 months without any issues, and they're greasable!

                    Jason

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