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    Hood elbow rail seal

    Before I do something stupid I thought I'd throw this question out. Please look at the attached picture and tell me which is the correct seal orientation.
    I'm edging towards 'A', the lips are facing the weather and any driven forces would tend to close the seals down on the toneau strip, at the same time any door slam resulting in a pressure rise in the cabin would open the seal allowing the pressure to relieve.
    That's my logic anyway.
    Lets hear it for the 'B' option.

    ELBOW SEAL.jpg
    John4D

    #2
    A nice sunny day, can some one go and check their elbow rail seal orientation? A or B? Please
    John4D

    Comment


      #3
      Well its raining here, but the answer is B is correct. Never come across one fitted the other way. PS: I hope you enjoy fiitting the rear seals, my favourite job (not). Let me know how you get on.
      Cheers

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks, Chris.
        Well there goes my logic, glad I asked.
        John4d

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          #5
          Chris. No wonder its not you favourite job, I can't see how it can be achieved. I've offered the seal and retaining strip into place and I can't see how the seal can be compressed so that the original rivet holes can be reused. Is the new seal profile so radically different, that I have to drill new holes?
          See new photo's. Orientation 'A' and the fit is achievable.
          John4D
          Attached Files

          Comment


            #6
            Wait a minute; I didnt look carefully enough at your pics; neither A or B is correct. In picture B the seal goes the other way round so that the metal plate goes into the gap between the two layers of seal. The seal still fits into the corner though. Does that make sense?

            This is how I do it;
            1.Use a bradawl to make holes in the hood material where it covers the holes; use the metal plates as templates to know where the holes should be.
            2. Fit the plates into the recess in rubber seal and poke holes with the bradawl
            3. Push rivet through plate and rubber, then fit onto hood frame and rivet.
            Last edited by V Mad; 13 March 2011, 16:11.

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks again Chris, There's always more than one way to get it wrong. I hope this configuration is now correct.
              John4D
              Attached Files

              Comment


                #8
                You got it!
                ps how do you do such brilliant drawings?

                Comment


                  #9
                  I'm glad its right because they are now fitted! All I've got to do now is re-adjust the hood frame position, again, to compensate for the previously unknown seal ride height. Chris, you were right, fitting a hood is an art gained by experience, I wish I had the money to allow an artist to fit it for me. Still, all in all I'm pleased with the results, it will never match the sleek looks of a modern convertible hood, but I've never seen a Stag that has, so I'll be pleased to equal the norm.

                  There's an adjacent thread querying rejuvenating hoods and proofing was mentioned, does a new hood need proofing or does that requirement start after a period of time?

                  As for the drawings, they were produced using CorelDraw9 circa last century. My art form, as a occasional distraction from SolidWorks and Microstation my usual CAD platforms.

                  John4D

                  P.S. How do I attach the images so they don't appear as thumb nails?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by john 4d View Post
                    P.S. How do I attach the images so they don't appear as thumb nails?
                    Once you have uploaded the picture, hover your mouse over it. A yellow highlighter will appear on the left hand side of the uploaded picture. Click on that and another box will open. Select 'Full Size' and save changes. You can also select the alignment you want for the picture at that stage.
                    Dave
                    1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by john 4d View Post
                      There's an adjacent thread querying rejuvenating hoods and proofing was mentioned, does a new hood need proofing or does that requirement start after a period of time?

                      John4D
                      New hoods should not need proofing although it would be a good precaution for cheaper (duck) ones. In my experience, hoods made of duck will eventually fade, and need re-proofing, but if left to get damp over long periods may become clogged with algae which could go on to cause failure of the material. 'Mohair' (ie better quality materials including stayfast etc) should not need any proofing and will not usually fade.

                      Its easy to test to see if it needs re-proofing; water should stay in droplets and not wet the material.

                      Comment

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