rear brake drums

[blue 464]

Hi, as fast as I cure 1 problem another comes along!

need to remove the n/s rear brake drum as the brakes are sticking, a couple of good clouts
with a mallet have loosened the drum but it won`t pull off. looking in the workshop manual its talking about releasing the self adjusting mechanism, which seems from the illustration 70.10.03 to be on the front shoe at about 3 o`clock, what am I looking for? I cannot see anything through the hole in the drum that resembles tha drawing

thanks, derek

[alistair260661]

not done it on the stag, but I seem to remember that there is a lever mechanism inside the drum which adjusts them. The trick is to used a robust screwdriver through the slot in the back and poke around. It may either be a lever to flick over, or using the screwdriver rotating the adjusting mechanism inside - anticlockwise - you'll know if you are rolling/rotating it the right way as it get looser (or not)

[Andrew S]

You wont be able to release the adjuster with the drum on I don't think. My guess is that the shoes, one may have come away off its securing pin and is biting into drum when you pull. Check on the back plate that you can see both securing pins have come through the back that hold the shoes in place.

Make sure its not the handbrake that is causing the binding as if it is, then removing the cable at the lever end may solve your problem. If not, two large screwdriver and just keep levering it off against the backplate.

If you have a rubber hammer, then hit the drum hard on the face and it has an action of making the drum bounce back and sometimes releases them

Presume you have removed both drum screws?

Good luck

Andrew

[martin]

Hi Derek, get down on your knees with a bright light, slowly rotate the drum while peering through the hole in it, if you put your thumb and forefinger together you'll note that your forefinger is slightly longer, that is the shape you're looking for, but much smaller, when you find it, separate the two "fingers" with a very small screwdriver, that drops the adjuster, if no success, try the other drum, that may come off and you can then see what I'm talking about. I might add that I HATE those rear brakes, if someone comes up with a manual adjustment conversion I'll bight his arm off ! Martin.

[Frank G]

Hi Derek,
Martin is absolutely correct. I've had to do it in the past. The 'thumb and forefinger have a ratchet between them.
If you prise them apart, then the adjustment will be slackened off and the drum should be released.
Best of British.
Cheers,
Frank

[StagnJag]

Does this help?
As I have noted on the picture, the adjuster is the wrong way around - this is how it was when I bought the car. If you can get to the upper bit and lever it up it should release the adjuster. The Lower bit needs to move closer to the outside of the drum to slacken.
DSCN5040s.jpg

Martin - with the adjuster this way around it is possible to move the adjuster with a screw driver and adjust the brakes slightly further than they do automatically. I left my adjusters the wrong way around as they were working fine, but with a bit of 'manual adjustment' and checking to make sure the drums don't bind, I have achieved a fantastic Handbrake. I can get 90lbf on the wheel nuts with the wheels off the ground. Much better than my modern car. (although I think that is only holding on one wheel lol.)

Rds

Dave

[martin]

Hi Dave, I usually manage to tickle the adjuster up 1 - 2 clicks at a time, re-fitting the drum each time, until it slips on just kissing the shoes, same result as you, but on both sides.
I've looked at the possibility of a conversion, apparently the Mk 1 2000 back plate will fit, but the pivot mount for the shoes is too close to the back plate and won't accept the wider Stag shoes, BUT, if you could transfer the Stag mount to the earlier back plate, manual adjustment should be possible. I have NEVER come across a self adjusting drum brake that worked worth a light. Manual adjustment would want attention once or twice a year, that's less attention than the auto system.
Rant over, but I think I'm right. Martin.

[Mike Stevens]

I've been driving Triumph big saloons since 1974 and the Stag since 1988 and I've rarely if ever had problems with the rear self-adjusters. As long as you keep the mechanism free, clean and lubricated - and disconnect the handbrake cable when 'clicking-up' the adjusters - they seem to work OK for me.

I too can tighten/remove rear wheel nuts with just the handbrake holding the wheel!

Cheers,
Mike.

[martin]

I've been driving Triumph big saloons since 1974 and the Stag since 1988 and I've rarely if ever had problems with the rear self-adjusters. As long as you keep the mechanism free, clean and lubricated - and disconnect the handbrake cable when 'clicking-up' the adjusters - they seem to work OK for me.

I too can tighten/remove rear wheel nuts with just the handbrake holding the wheel!



















Cheers,
Mike.

Hi Mike, isn't that my point ? that's a lot of work to keep an automatic system working ! The Scimitar had adjustable rear brakes, they got tickled up once a year - easy and reliable.
I've driven and maintained 2000s since about '68, the Mk1 was MUCH easier. Martin.

[Mike Stevens]

Hi Martin,

To coin a phrase 'I'm sure you're right'! When I had a Mk1, I didn't really like the manual adjusters and when I got a Mk2 and Stag with the auto ones I preferred them. I don't believe that the tasks in keeping them clean etc is any worse/more often than manually adjusting them.

Each to his own of course. Life would be boring otherwise!

Cheers,
Mike.

[martin]

Hi Martin,

To coin a phrase 'I'm sure you're right'! When I had a Mk1, I didn't really like the manual adjusters and when I got a Mk2 and Stag with the auto ones I preferred them. I don't believe that the tasks in keeping them clean etc is any worse/more often than manually adjusting them.

Each to his own of course. Life would be boring otherwise!

Cheers,
Mike.

Very true !

[blue 464]

Thanks guys, martin the photo was realy helpful, mission accomplished!

derek