mot today

[pcoleman]

well the little darling passed again today but that was the only good news as on the way home the rear passenger side wheel brake was binding as if the handbrake was stuck on that side,anyway being low on fuel (the light was on)decided to stop and fuel at tesco and thought I'd put super unleaded in but boy, whata mistaker to maker ! as within half a mile things were getting interesting in an unpleasant way.I couldn't get up the small hill on the way home and engine stopped a couple off times so it wouldn't go and i couldn't push it cuz of the dodgy rear brake,don't you just love stags eh! question is though why did higher octane fuel unleash armagedon and is it best to try and get the fuel out,there must be around 3 gallons of super **** in there,or fill up with normal unleaded to dilute the effect.If I have to get it out whats the easist/quickest/least hassle method ? bloody typical as well, the brake has freed itself off standing in the garage so any advice on this please.off to the pub now so sod it until tomorrow. pete.c

[flying farmer]

It might be your pump has packed up, or inertia switch problem, or stirred up some crap in the tank that has blocked the filter. Seems like the pub is the best idea
Neil

[martin]

Hi Pete, it's very likely that the MOT tester pulled the handbrake on REALLY hard, if he then reversed off the ramp, that could explain it hanging up. The fuel thing must be a coincidence, unless you picked up some poor fuel, or it was so low you've stirred up the s=== in the tank. I envy you the pub ! Martin.

[AlanD]

i have not used Tesco petrol since i had a bad batch from them, apparently they said they had problems with water in the fuel, IE condensation from the tanker!!
the BM really didnt like it

[pcoleman]

well I've diluted the fuel with 2 gallons (old money measure) of normal unleaded and she ran fine for 10 miles on Sunday so wondering whether I dislodged some crap in the tank with it being first fill up of the season and it's worked it's way through I hope.only problem now is still the rear nearside brake is sticking on after a few miles but left it in the garage after the run and couple of hours later it was free again,when I bled the system last month I couldn't bleed this wheel properly due to nipple being buggered so slackened off the pipe at the cylinder and got as much out as possible.should I try and bleed this wheel after fitting a new nipple ( got 2 newuns) or is the cylinder toast? cant be much amiss as just passed MOT! pete.c

[martin]

It rather sounds as if your self adjuster/handbrake pivot are seized, an easy fix, but while you've got the drum off, why not change the cylinder, both would be best, they're cheap enough. Martin.

[pcoleman]

yeh why not then,just ordered a newun from LD parts and the bonus is I wont have to arse about trying to get the old bleed nipple out either which no doubt will shear off after hours of teasing me!!

[pcoleman]

changed the brake cylinder on the rear nearside today and bled it through,took it for a good blast around and seems ok and no sign of the engine malady as mentioned earlier.new issues as follows not in any particular order of P*****G me off,hand brake is crap,think I'll get round to fitting new cable this year as all adjustment is used up I bet that will be fun. I didn't like the feel of the drive shaft when turning the rear wheel hub it was alternately tight/notchy and loose/sloppy is this the norm for a 36 year old stag hence the twitch or am I doomed on the next run out ? finally the old girls incontinence is getting embarrassing as even my best mate puts paper under her when I park on his drive ( just cuz he's got a porche that never ever leaks or breaks,boring eh!) so losing a fair bit of engine oil now and wondered whats likely to be the culprit(s) there's nowt coming from the cam boxes as these have just been done with new gaskets and sealer and top end is all dry so its oily bits leaking somewhere,hope its an easy fix though (dream on peter) as a footnote I changed both front discs and pads on my german road car this morning in less time than it took to replace the stags cylinder with all the usual juggling to remove drum( drilled out one of the set screws) free everything up on the adjuster and reassemble the stone age mechanism so it bloody fits and works after a fashion! going for a beer,a bath and read the stag mag whilst the grupenfuhrer watches mama mia or some other ****! and it's good night from me.

pete.c

[martin]

Somebody sounds REALLY p****d off ! Handbrake, make certain the pivots are free, drop the adjusters as far as they will go, disconnect both handbrake cables, preferably with a friend, replace the drums, while firmly holding the handbrake levers flat against the backplates, apply the footbrake a couple of times, you should hear the adjusters clicking up, now re-connect the cables, you may have to swap sides a few times, but keep going till you've got about five clicks on the handbrake to lock both wheels. Now you know why I'd rather have adjustable back brakes. It's very unlikely that a new cable will fix things, but of course it's not impossible that yours has stretched. Good luck Pete, don't forget the pivots in the drum must be free. Martin.

[StagnJag]

I was thinking along the same lines as Martin, I replaced my Handbrake cables thinking that it was stretched. (It was frayed and needed changing anyway) but the new one was the same length as the old one. It is likely to be the adjusters not adjusting quite enough and/or partially seized handbrake mechanism. Try Martin's handbrake adjusting method before you splash out on a new cable.

Rgds

Dave