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    Change track rod ends





    Hello,please forgive my ignorance as I am definately no mechanic,but have derived more and more satisfacton as I have tackled some basic jobs on my 1971 Mk1 Manual.

    So next jobs for MOT:

    I need to replace Track rod ends and one of the rack gaitors.

    Can some one please give me an idiots guide of how to do,ie can I change the track rod ends with car on ramps ok.
    I know I need to mark position of threads and get tracked afterwards

    I also remember that there are two kinds of splitter for seperating the T.R ends,cant remember which best,fork type?or other(screwtype?) Seem to remember form an old post that one type damages rubbers,but cant remember which?
    Any tips at all on removal would be very much appreciated.


    Also if I just wanted to change a gaitor is the easiest way to undo the T.R end and slip it over the end of the now detached T.R end.

    Lastly has anyone found out if a different make of spacesaver wheel that will fit the stag,in the interests of weight reduction

    Thanks in advance,
    Mark

    #2
    imported post

    having had one of these snap whilst I was driving, meant that I had to sort-out a similar problem. I also had a leaking steering rack gaitor and believe that if it is leaking, it needs more than new gator - ie a new rack, but I might have been misled on this point.

    Given the potential problems of not getting this right and the fact that you need to ask, I would recommend that you consider getting this work done by someone who knows what they are doing, but appreciate that this may not be an option.


    Comment


      #3
      imported post

      Mark

      I'm no mechanic but I've managed this job a few times on various cars including the Stag... I think it's easy.

      Yes I thinkyou can do it with the car on ramps

      Seperating ball joints.

      I prefer the screw type ... in fact I think I made one last time out of an old G clamp.

      The fork ones are cheaper and do tend to damage the rubber on the track rod end but then if you're replacing it it doesn't matter.

      With end removed and tie wraps or wire fastners cut off the gaiter will slide off

      Fill new gaiter with grease and slide on.

      This is the fiddly bit getting the big end of the gaiter onto the steering rack especially with greasy hands

      Give it a go ... it's the best way to learn

      David

      Comment


        #4
        imported post

        Mark

        Why do you want to do it on ramps? ,it will be alot easier to get to with the car jacked up and the wheel off.Also you can run from lock to lock if needed to get tools in the right places.

        Steve

        Comment


          #5
          imported post

          Actually Steves right about ramps etc

          Comment


            #6
            imported post

            Stagdad wrote:
            Mark

            Why do you want to do it on ramps? ,it will be alot easier to get to with the car jacked up and the wheel off.Also you can run from lock to lock if needed to get tools in the right places.

            Steve
            .. using axle stands for safety of course. Naturally don't put any part of your anatomy under a car on a jack only!

            http://www.stagwiki.com | http://parts.stagwiki.com (Under Development)

            Comment


              #7
              imported post

              I have found that the only way to get them off sometimes is to heat them as hot as you can get themas they are a taper fit, this of course ruins the rubber but makes seperating them easy, once they are hot (I use a water spray to keep surrounding areas cool, especially steering rack gaiters) one wack with a seperator is all you then need. Track rod ends are quite cheap, I would always put new ones on if I had to seperate them for any other reason.

              Dave

              Comment


                #8
                imported post

                I seem to remember a poor quality issue with replacementtrack rod ends?
                ZF 4 spd box, Datsun shafts, SS exhaust, 38DGMS weber 158.9bhp, BMW MC Tomcat seatssigpic

                Comment


                  #9
                  imported post

                  Hello Kevin.

                  I am sure you are right, there has been talk about this previously. Goodness knows where the cr*p is now.

                  I buy from LD parts and SOC spares, as I believe they have our interests at heart.

                  No connection, apart from being an extremely satisfied customer.

                  John.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    imported post

                    StagnJag wrote:
                    Stagdad wrote:
                    Mark

                    Why do you want to do it on ramps? ,it will be alot easier to get to with the car jacked up and the wheel off.Also you can run from lock to lock if needed to get tools in the right places.

                    Steve
                    .. using axle stands for safety of course. Naturally don't put any part of your anatomy under a car on a jack only!
                    Thanks Mark

                    Yes safety first at all times.Got woken up onceby a neighbours son screeming ashis car had fallen on him ,his Mum and Dad managed to lift it up to save him by the time we got there.Dam near killed them as they were old and unfit.

                    Also seen someone jack a car up on a steep drive ,Took out his garage door:?

                    Steve

                    Comment


                      #11
                      imported post

                      Ref the comment about steerring racks.

                      If it leaks, fix the leaks. If the MOT man is happy with it (ie no play) keep it.

                      Rebuilt racks are often very poorly refurbished (if at all) - a lick of paint and a pair of gaiters and thats your lot.

                      If you do replace, keep your old one just in case. Over the years I've replaced a few to find my old one was better than the aledged 'new' one.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        imported post

                        Thanks Stagdad,this is excactly,why I ask these kind of questions ie ramps or jack etc ,As I say me no expert,your points re lock to lock and access are very valid ,just thought may be more stable on ramps,so thanks again.

                        Mark

                        Comment


                          #13
                          imported post

                          colinh wrote:
                          Ref the comment about steerring racks.

                          If it leaks, fix the leaks. If the MOT man is happy with it (ie no play) keep it.

                          Rebuilt racks are often very poorly refurbished (if at all) - a lick of paint and a pair of gaiters and thats your lot.

                          If you do replace, keep your old one just in case. Over the years I've replaced a few to find my old one was better than the aledged 'new' one.
                          My rack has a slight leak, it looks worse than it is, ie there seems to be quite a lot of fluid around the O/S gaiter but the fluid level hasn't dropped much, I think I've topped it up once by 50-100ml in 3000 miles or so. How easy is it to strip down and refurbish? There doesn't seem to be any play in the steering so no need to replace the rack itself.
                          ZF 4 spd box, Datsun shafts, SS exhaust, 38DGMS weber 158.9bhp, BMW MC Tomcat seatssigpic

                          Comment


                            #14
                            imported post

                            Kevin Garrod wrote:
                            My rack has a slight leak, it looks worse than it is, ie there seems to be quite a lot of fluid around the O/S gaiter but the fluid level hasn't dropped much, I think I've topped it up once by 50-100ml in 3000 miles or so. How easy is it to strip down and refurbish? There doesn't seem to be any play in the steering so no need to replace the rack itself.
                            Kevin,

                            I had exactly this problem a few years ago. I bought some power steering fluid from the local accessories shop that claimed to seal leaks. Can't remember offhand what make it was. (Probably STP, or Comma). Anyway I was sceptical as usual but it actually worked :shock:. Stopped all leaks for a couple of years until I was ready to strip down and rebuild a spare rack.

                            Maybe worth a try.

                            Dave
                            Dave
                            1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              imported post

                              DJT wrote:

                              Kevin,

                              I had exactly this problem a few years ago. I bought some power steering fluid from the local accessories shop that claimed to seal leaks. Can't remember offhand what make it was. (Probably STP, or Comma). Anyway I was sceptical as usual but it actually worked :shock:. Stopped all leaks for a couple of years until I was ready to strip down and rebuild a spare rack.

                              Maybe worth a try.

                              Dave
                              This stuff swells the rubber seals, no harm done in the steering rack, you can also get a similar product to put in the Auto box

                              Bob

                              Comment

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