Pitted Chrome

[al-stag]

Quite happy with my recently purchased Stag which has been dry used and stored for last 11 years by previous owner. I could spend thousands to get it to concours, but really just want to have a vehicle that is fun, mechanically reliable and looks reasonably good. There are two small rust spots on the door shuts where vibration has obviously rubbed away the paint and rust has started toeat away in small areas. To remedy this I intend to grind back to bare metal, etch prime, undercoat and top coat with brushing finish coat to correct this. I might also file away the offending corners a little and try to adjust the doors to stop the rubbing and thusavoid the problem reoccurring.

Spending £hundreds on rechroming is not on my agenda. Some of the bumper parts have many small rust spots which might get worse if not attended to. The same is true on some of the zinc trim which manifests itself in white rust spots. A polish up means the parts look quite good with just small rust spots visible.

I am willing to live with the tiny rust spots on the chrome but has anyone got any tips on in situ treatments or products to slow down or halt rustng on chromed parts?

Al

[mad cyclist]

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Hi Al

you kind of have the same attitude as me towards the car, i want it to be reliable as well as not having worries about leaving it in a sainsbury car park, 'it's only a car'.

adjusting doors is a pian, they weigh a lot and the smallest of adjustments at the hinge, are exaggerated when you get somewhere else. the biggest problem is that they needed to have been fitted to the car then trimmed and refittedafter painting, some body shops on a time scale, fit a poor panel paint it then fit the door back on. so your ideas of trimming are good but be aware it's quite difficult. good luck.

on the chrome front, around the horse shoes and the other push on trim i squirt a bit of wd40 as a water disperser, then follow up a couple of days later with a dry lube, this has a repellent that drys out only leaving the lube behind, you do need to wipe away excess, but stuff does not stick to it.

if you have pits in chrome ther are things available i think from co's like dinotrol /maguires to slow down corrosion, but chrome has a shelf life ,especially cheaper stuff. if you have original bumpers, keep them as the steel is a thicker guage than the repro ones, you can get bits of steel/rust cut out and then rechrome. this is the only long trm soloution. i also plan to take off my bumpers tis year and paint the insides, as corrosion often stats where you can not see it.

rgds Nick

[grahamb]

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Nick,

is that "old yella" you are going to paint behind the bumpers?

[mad cyclist]

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grahamb wrote:

Nick,

is that "old yella" you are going to paint behind the bumpers?

yes g

in a very subtle way of course, may wax instead.

[Gresley]

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I have sprayed waxoyl inside my bumpers in an effort to slow down corrosion. I treated a Triumph like this which was used daily and then stood for 6 yeras. No rust apperead inside the bumpers in that time. Seems OK so far...

[seaside bill]

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I've used a product called 'Corrision Block' in the past. It was recommended in a classic car mag and it works really well. It was developed in Canada for the marine industry and is also widely used in the aviation industry. You can get it in the UK in spray cans http://www.acf-50.co.uk/corrblock.htm

[toneil461]

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For bumpers initially use 'autosol' (available from Halfords) great stuff! For additional protection just use car wax every couple of weeks . If you can remove thebumpers apply a liberal coat of wax oil on the undersideensuring complete coverage.

For treatment of bodywork, as you described, take back to bare metal the offending area, don't leave any jagged rusty metal areas, if needed get a plate mig welded in place then apply a coat of Hammerite No 1 (Finnigans No1) this a top product! and will offer improved protection over 'etch' for this kind of repair. After this applyfiller to complement surrounding area. Prime, apply top coat.



Hope this helps

Terry..
PS, Al, visit my website may be of interest http://www.thetriumphstag.co.uk

[Stagdad]

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toneil461 wrote:

Terry..
PS, Al, visit my website may be of interest http://www.thetriumphstag.co.uk

Terry

Presumably we have to click on the white stag on theright of the pageto enter your site but it won't work for me (Tried it several times on different days).any one else have this problem?


Cheers Steve

[Big J]

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Steve - no that link doesn't take you anywhere. Instead use the lables at the top of the page. e.g Stag History, B4 the strip, etc.

J

[toneil461]

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Hi Steve,

Under the Stag is an additional 'http//site link'. Although it say's 'Click Here' I'll need to change this if people are having difficulty navigating to my site. Many thanks for letting me know, much appreciated!

The site has been created using 'google pages' really easy to do (it must be if I can do it) and I have boughtthe domaine name 'thetriumphstag.co.ukfrom a company called123 reg,which I have had to link to the google site, hence the screen you initially see (not much choice on the layout)

I'll make some changes shortly please let me know if it's better

Cheers Terry..

[Stagdad]

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I was being a bit lazy

tried the top tabs as J said and it works fine

Cheers guys

[toneil461]

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Hi Steve,

Might have misinterpreted your concern with web site after reading Big j's post. I have changed the 'Links' as detailed by Big J to yellow hope this helps everyone.

Thanks Steve & Big J

Rgds

Terry..

[al-stag]

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Terry,

Looking at your web site you certainly know your stuff.

I have some Hammerite Kurust and some Hammerite Direct to Rust. After grinding to bare metal as best I can I intended to use the Hammerite DTR which is Yellow as a primer. I have some Isopon to go over that. Then, more primer and finally the Inca Yellow.

On any niches where I cant remove the rust (for instance noticed a long niche between the skins on the side edges of the boot lid where there is a little rust), I will use the Kurust which will hopefully stop it getting any worse. Then, the Hammerite DTR, and finally a topcoat.

I was wondering whether to try the Kurust on the spots on the chrome.

Thanks for your advice.

Al

[toneil461]

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Hi Al

Kurust will turn the rust spots black/purple and in my opinion is not the answer.It's certainly a good idea to use this product on the bumper underside if necessary.

Without really knowing the extent of the pitting it's difficult to give an accurate repair method. However, if you have light pitting then Autosol is the answer it will reduce the severity and visual impact of the pitting as well as enhancing the chrome appearance.If this does not satisfy your needs then re-chroming is the only real answer.Regular waxing ofALL chrome work will give sufficient protection.

Rust between flanges is a real nightmare. You must do your best to remove as much rust and dirtas possible. Use scrapper blades, P36 grit disc pads (by hand) and thoroughly clean all crevices. Treat as you described and apply sealant to flanges. After painting put plenty of cavity wax in seam.

Rgds

Terry..