REAR DRIVE SHAFT REPLACEMENT!

[WHITESTAG]

Hi!

My 74 mk2 rear half shaft has distinct cyclic clunk noise(n/s)- am assuming it's a uj problem- so have decided to replace whole shaft complete as picked up at a good price but needs a hub bearing replacing-my question : as am bit new to stags- am told that hub removal can be an utter swine of a job?- can I use a universal puller and bit unclear about correct end float adjustment and setting? any pointers in all directions appreciated- I know this is common problem area in STAGS- I also have a modest diff whine-again I know common but dont really know what is classed as an acceptable level! all help from you dedicated guys gratefully recieved!

CHEERS!

PHIL

[redstag]

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Is it only the uj that is worn on your current shaft? As long as it isn't staked it will be much easier to change this than replacing bearings in another shaft.

You will not be able to remove the hub with a universal puller, a specialheavy duty tool is needed.

Very high levels of force are needed to dismantle a rear hub and if it is not done correctly the consequences can be disastrous. I bought recon hubs from a respected supplier - you can see what happened herewhen one of them failed

http://www.stag.org.uk/bedfordshire/hubs.htm


Diff noise dependsat whatlevelyou find the whine intrusive. It's a common problem and you will often hear of recon diffs still whining. Probably best if you can get a ride in a car with a "quiet" diff so you can decide if it's worth changing.

Pete

[stagstr]

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Hi Phil,

I have to agree with Pete. Fixing a UJ is a whole lot easier and cheaper than replacing a bearing - I don't think the bearing replacement is DIY, better to buy a reconditioned one if that's the route you want to take. You probably got yourhalf shaftcheap because the seller knew the bearing needed doing and that's the expensive bit!

I've heard stories of people buying recon diffs and the recon is noisier than the one they exchanged. Take care - but if you can live with the whine, then it might be best to leave it alone.

Besides these issues, let me wish you the best of luck with Stag ownership - I'm sure you'll have plenty of fun.

Ray

[WHITESTAG]

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Hi Pete !

Thanks for the reply and content !

much appreciated!- will go the uj route as mine has circlips and see how I go! am reticent about having a go at bearing in lieu of the jig etc that have not got-!!

[WHITESTAG]

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Hi Pete!

Thanks for feedback and advice ! much appreciated- will have a stab at ujs as mine has circlips

have not got jig to tackle bearing! keep you posted on the diff!

cheers

phil

[DJT]

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Peter,

These pictures bring back memories. Had the same thing happen to me, but I was doing 70 at the time! The wheel jumped two hedges and ended up in the middle of a ploughed field.

Dave

[WHITESTAG]

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Hi RAY!

Notice you in BURY!....small world am in RAMSBOTTOM!....

Funny is it.... I have been trawiling EBAY for ages for bits for my STAG! and low and behold found a chap called STEVE -lives in EDENFIELD who has 5 of em!!!!!!!

Has masses of bits available!....mail if you want further info!

CHEERS

PHIL

[jbuckl]

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During 2005/6I under-took a couple of stag rear wheel bearing changes.

WhenI bought the bearing, the supplier said the job was pretty near impossible to do at home.

I remember changing one on a 2000 saloon which took a 150 ton press (taper cracked at 50tons, whilst we left it to have tea....always helps)

The stag ones proved quite easy with a home made puller 'activated' by a 4 lb lump-hammer.

The shaft can be removed and rebuilt / replacedwith new bearingsin about three hoursinclusive ofplenty of tea-breaks!

A vice is helpful, but not essential.

I also made a couple o/eof spanners to adjust the pre-load nuts.

Ill try and get a picture of the puller / spanners.

[WHITESTAG]

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Hi!

Thanks for that!!!

Its one one those jobs! have got well equipped garage- but do not have a puller yet!

happy to buy one when I know the right brute to get! be greatull of all tips and hints!

kind regards

PHIL!

[jbuckl]

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Phil, key thing is to prevent damage to the drive flange.

A puller that does not contactover a small area is necessary.

The one I used was actually bolted tightly through the stud holes before the M20 bolt was screwed hard into the countersink in the shaft end.

Next thing is to hammer the M20 bolt sharply, re-tighten and repeat until bingo, the shaft separates from the flange.

No damage to either part on both occasions.

Jbuckl

[WHITESTAG]

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THANKS EVER SO

Feel a bit more confident now!...think I have found a reasonable one on EBAY! that should do ! will keep you posted!.......now wheres me hammer?...........

cheers!

PHIL