E-Type

[dasadrew]

Any 'experts' out there who could say whether this would be a good buy or whether one should say goodbye?

Bottomless money-pit? Good investment?

E-Type 1.jpg

E-Type 3.jpg

E-Type 4.jpg

E-Type 5.jpg

[V Mad]

To get that up to standard could take more cash than its market value. If it was a Series 1 or two, maybe.

[dasadrew]

Hi Chris,

what is it about this one which makes it "undesirable"? (It's a 1974 with 44,000 miles; mechanically functioning, interior without tears or rips; obvious bodywork stuff; California "rustless" condition)

[ethel]

Hi Drew,
I don't think any E type could be undesireable.
As far as I understand it though, the Series 3 are considered less pure of line and spirit than the earlier ones because they are viewed more as 'cruisers' than 'sports cars' and they were all (including the soft top) based on the longer floorpan of the 2+2 which makes it heavier and in some opinions uglier.
However I'm sure that with the application of a bit of the 'man maths' that we all use when buying a car you'll be able to convince yourself that it's an economically justifiable purchase
John.

[kgnich]

Bottomless money-pit? Good investment?

I'm no expert ... but my view is

Probably neither ....

I have just rebuilt a Series 2 - all mechanicals and suspension to as new condition, except for the engine bottom end which was perfect. The car had already had £18K spent 10 years ago on the body and is in very good condition. Interior is excellent original but not perfect.

I have spent £8K on it - and a year of my life!

It's a 2+2 so one of the least desirable but I wanted a fixed roof - I drive my stag on sunny days!

I would probably get my money back in terms of the £8K and purchase price but certainly nothing towards the time I have put in.

If you started with the Series 3, assuming you were doing all the work yourself including a full mechanical respray and full mechanical rebuild I guess you would spend about £12K on it. Interiors can be expensive so you'd have to add that on as well. Being a OTS you would get a significant premium when you sell over the fixed head though.

The thing is that Jaguars parts are SO much more expensive than Stags .. I certainly notice it and am quite shocked at how much I have spent on some very minor bits.

I assume you have seen the Wheeler Dealer show on Youtube when Ed "restores" (ahem!) a Series 3. Worth a look.

Finally you'd have to be very careful that the "rust free" really is what it says. These cars have complex sill structures and you just can't see inside them easily - be careful as if the sills have rust then it can get very time consuming and expensive.

As always you are probably best to buy one that has already been done ..... but I know that doesn't suit everyone.

Here's a picture of mine from last week ...



and this is the rear .. very similar to the Series 3



Cheers
Graham

[Andrew S]

Hi Drew, very tempting but fundamentally, I would research the impact of doing a restoration on a left hooker rather than a right hand drive model. reason hwy I say, is that there may be a better market / value for RHD, although where you are, they would want a LHD.

Nice example Graham by the way, well done

[singapore stag]

Hi Chris,

what is it about this one which makes it "undesirable"? (It's a 1974 with 44,000 miles; mechanically functioning, interior without tears or rips; obvious bodywork stuff; California "rustless" condition)

Hi Drew, If the price is right,.....GRAB IT!!
Sukh.

[dasadrew]

Interesting info guys.

Is there a Rimmers equivalent for Jag parts where it is easy to get an overview of prices?

I've missed out on so many classic car deals over the years that I was wondering whether to buy and store and see if I then have time to restore. It's price is low for the market here, so I can't think I'd lose money on a later resale even if I just kept it in its current condition.

That 2+2 looks just gorgeous!

In the late 1980's I didn't buy a Dino 246 'cos I wanted a newer car and could get a brand new Sierra/Mondeo for the same price as a used Dino!!

[MB]

A mate of mine who I’ve not seen for a while has a Red series 3 convertible which he brought for £26,000 over 20 years ago. It was a fortune at the time but he thought it would be an investment, he believed there was a £1000 premium because it was Red and at least that again because it had chrome wire wheels.
He scratched a wing driving it through the church gates at his brother’s wedding a couple of years later, but was not too concerned as it was an excuse to get it re-sprayed as he thought there were some minor flaws around the power bulge on the bonnet. Looked immaculate to the naked eye but apparently they were visible under fluorescent light.
So he got it re-sprayed and he did the engine up whilst it was out and it’s never been on the road since. Got married had kids (who never been in the car) and last I saw it about 8 years ago, it was more or less back together but gathering dust in his garage.
I know he had trouble getting the heads off and he shattered one trying to remove it so had to get a replacement. Also when I last saw it he said last time he started it petrol pissed out of the carbs. (Strombergs needle valves and stuck heads) There is quite a lot of similarities to the Stag engine, overhead cam V engine, chain driven (duplex I think on the V12), Strombergs (4 on jag) alloy heads (and block on the V12).
He would probably still make a profit if he sold it as is and even more if he got it back on the road. For me he has missed out on 20 + years of driving though.
His brother has a Dolomite Sprint that he was building from a new shell, another project that stalled not far from completion about 10 years ago.

[Bob Heritage]

I beleive that on a V12 Jag the cylinder head bolts/studs pass through the water jacket, & you think you have problems getting Stag heads off

[MB]

[QUOTE=dasadrew;140841]Interesting info guys.

Is there a Rimmers equivalent for Jag parts where it is easy to get an overview of prices?

SNG Barrett http://www.sngbarratt.com/

[dasadrew]

[QUOTE=MB;140848]

Interesting info guys.

Is there a Rimmers equivalent for Jag parts where it is easy to get an overview of prices?

SNG Barrett http://www.sngbarratt.com/

Cheers! A lot of those prices don't seem much different to Stags

[Guest]

As we all know there are three basic ways to approach buying a classic and depends on how risk adverse you are ;

1. A fully restored car - You pay top dollar, some things may not have been done how you like them and you never really know what has been done. Overall it might be the cheapest way to go.
2. A good looking useable car - Lesser initial outlay but a minefield on what may lurk. You could end up spending a fortune, on top of the premium paid when it was all looking like a good one and reay to roll.
3. A non-runner / clear restoration car - Obviously you could still spend a lot but you know it's been done right and how you want it.

With regards to the Jag, if you want it and have researched purchase prices / repair costs it still looks a sensible proposition then you go for it. As ever you do so without the expectation that you will "make money".

[dasadrew]

That's a very good summary. With my Stag I went down route 3, and am still (just) in the budget I had planned and, at the end of it, I know that nothing is hidden or bodged. Both 1. and 2. can be big disappointments when you later find out the hidden nasties and realise what you paid.

You are also spot on that it's a mugs' game to think you can make money with a car. Maybe before t'Internet you could have found a farmer with a 250GTO in his barn but I believe all of these barns have now been grazed and Farmer Giles also knows from the Web what the scrap is worth!

Since lunch with a friend today I am now being led down the path of a pair of Schwarzwälder Füchse and a carriage!!!!

Drew

[Guest]

Well I guess that's an alternative which, whilst not requiring restoration, would still leave you in the ****e you would have expected