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    Re: another stag....

    I have finally collected my latest stag. Its a 1972 (thanks to gaydon for proving that!) and has the rover engine with holley carb. It needs a tiny bit of welding to the front outriggers, and the hood frame sorting but seems okay.
    However I have had a few issues already:

    1. Collected by trailer, starts okay, drove onto trailer. Get home, roll off trailer and put into reverse to back onto drive. Gearsick gets jammed in reverse position, but letting clutch up shows no gear. Push car into drive and get depressed! Its the rover engine, with adaptor plate, using stag man o/d box. I have removed the box, taken the cover off and re-alligned the selector. No idea how it jumped free, or why - all looks okay inside, just a bit low on oil. The small lever that is operated by the selector is okay, but does "wobble" a bit on its pivot bolt (the one you can see on the outside of the box) Anyone know what causes the boxes to get stuck in reverse like this? I dont want it to happen again, as I want to take it abroad in september!

    2. maybe related, but I dont think so... There is only 1 inhibitor on the box - on the side of the selector top. This clearly knows when the car is in reverse, so I guess does the reversing lights, but the 3 blanking plates on top the box are still blank. How does this car know when you are in 3rd or 4th for overdrive?

    3. It has a fuel pump that 'looks' like an original stag one, but doesnt have points - it has a little electric eye (like luminition?) If you connect 12V direct to it (jump leads) it works fine, and once its woken up the feed from the car will do, BUT if you approach from cold, then the +ve feed from the car wiring just isnt enough to get it pumping! The inertia switch appears to work fine, and my testor shows 12V to be there with ignition on. A faulty pump?

    general questions:

    a. Taking the gearbox out showed the spigot bush in the crank to be the 'automatic' size - far too large to support the stag input shaft. How critical is the spigot bush? Its clearly been okay so far?

    b. The exhaust manifolds are mild steel and both exit to the front. The whole system is mild steel (except for stainless standard size rear tail pipes). Where can I get replacement pipes to replace the very dented pipes that push onto the manifolds? I think they must be down to 1/2 bore in places - they look like they have impacted with a few kerbs?!

    c. The holley has an electric choke. The only way to start it is to pump the throttle about 4 times, then turn the key. It then fires, ticks over for a few seconds and stalls. You do this about 6 or 7 times after which you can then carefully give it some throttle and raise the revs above tickover.

    d. The brake pedal goes almost to the floor before anything happens. We tried bleeding the front passenger side, but couldnt get any fluid out. I am guessing dead seals in the brake master cylinder?

    Any thoughts greatfully received. For the purists: I already have a stag with Triumph v8, so will probably stick with rover in this one for comparison purposes for now...

    #2
    Re. your point 3 about the fuel pump, I have found that they will not work unless they have at least a 12v feed to them. You may have a weak battery or a voltage drop somewhere in your system. The fault only appears if the petrol in the float bowl dries out. If there is the fuel there, then once fired, your alternator will supply enough power to start the pump.

    Re. c, it sounds like the choke isn't working

    Re. d, I would try a pressure bleed, though it could be the shuttle valve on the NS inner wing has moved to the rear position or the flexible hose to the caliper you are bleeding has collapsed internally.
    Last edited by v8wgm; 1 June 2011, 14:41.

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      #3
      a) You really should fit the correct spigot bearing or you might get clutch problems (judder etc), and worse, damage to the gearbox shaft.
      b) Several suppliers sell link pipes to the Rover engine (Rimmers, Monarch)
      c) It sounds like the electric choke is not working properly. (connected?)
      d) The master cylinder may need priming (filled with fluid) to get it started. This often happens after new seals are fitted.

      Comment


        #4
        It won't be anything to do with the the pdw switch on the n/s inner wing. The shuttle is there merely to operate the switch, and can have no effect on the passage of brake fluid through the assembly. Have you tried bleeding the front driver's side? If that is dry as well, then the master cylinder is almost certainly the problem. If you have got fluid there, the bleeder may be blocked.

        Comment


          #5
          Point 2
          There should be 2 switches on the outside of the selector housing ,one on the top for overdrive one on the side for reverse light,well thats how mine is anyway .

          As for the sticking gear stick take a look at this thread



          Cheers Steve
          Last edited by Stagdad; 1 June 2011, 20:41.

          Comment


            #6
            For the fuel pump, check and clean the inertia cut off switch, it could be corroded up inside.

            Rgds

            Dave
            http://www.stagwiki.com | http://parts.stagwiki.com (Under Development)

            Comment

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