not so smooth clutch

[mad cyclist]

the clutch on my car is a bit judderery on release, it kinda snatches as i bring up the pedal, it is only noticeable at low speeds, the car did stand for 7 years and has done 600 miles since mot 3 weeks ago.

any ideas?

i haven't done anything to it apart from lube the pedal

[dogsnadgers]

imported post

Hi Nick,

Its the dreaded Stag judder, probably caused by worn parts in the clutch, cross shaft bushes, trunnions, and/or misalignment. It wil get worse I'm afraid. You might be very lucky and it might be pedal bushes but I doubt it. Search the 'other' forum for clutch judder and you will find much informative if depressing information on this matter.

Dave

[DJT]

imported post

Nick,

I'm with Dave (dogsnadgers) on this one. I suffered with this for years. Only sorted it properly last time I had the 'box out.

Alignment is paramount. There are a couple of very tight-fitting 'dowell' bolts among the general bolts securing the 'box to the engine. These are essential for alignment.

Additionally, the release bearing carrier must be lubricated properly, and it helps if you have the later longer front nose. This removes any possibility of the bearing carrier tilting and causing judder.

Worn cross-shaft bearings won't help. These are cheap to replace, but cannot be done with the 'box in situ. There is plenty of room to knock in two bearings either side to provide additional support, and I would recommend this.

I also found the flywheel had 'hot spots'. Whether this was 'cause' or 'effect', I shall never know, because I found an almost new flywheel and fitted that. Imperative to replace the spigot bearing in the crankshaft as well.

After many, many years of suffering varying degrees of clutch judder, it was a revelation to finally cure it and my Stag now has a clutch smooth enough to rival any modern car.

If it is not too bad, I would live with it until it is time to change the clutch, or overhaul the gearbox.

Dave

[Marco Polo]

imported post

DJT wrote:

Nick,

I'm with Dave (dogsnadgers) on this one. I suffered with this for years. Only sorted it properly last time I had the 'box out.

Alignment is paramount. There are a couple of very tight-fitting 'dowell' bolts among the general bolts securing the 'box to the engine. These are essential for alignment.

Additionally, the release bearing carrier must be lubricated properly, and it helps if you have the later longer front nose. This removes any possibility of the bearing carrier tilting and causing judder.

Worn cross-shaft bearings won't help. These are cheap to replace, but cannot be done with the 'box in situ. There is plenty of room to knock in two bearings either side to provide additional support, and I would recommend this.

I also found the flywheel had 'hot spots'. Whether this was 'cause' or 'effect', I shall never know, because I found an almost new flywheel and fitted that. Imperative to replace the spigot bearing in the crankshaft as well.

After many, many years of suffering varying degrees of clutch judder, it was a revelation to finally cure it and my Stag now has a clutch smooth enough to rival any modern car.

If it is not too bad, I would live with it until it is time to change the clutch, or overhaul the gearbox.

Dave

I couldn't say it better myself! Don't forget to rewirelock the bolt on the cross shaft! The most important item being the dowel bolts, (IMHO). I found them missing on my UK Stag years ago and also on my current Stag Down Under, their renewal, alone, was enough to cure my clutch judder.

regards,

Raoul

[mad cyclist]

imported post

Marco Polo wrote:

I couldn't say it better myself! Don't forget to rewirelock the bolt on the cross shaft! The most important item being the dowel bolts, (IMHO). I found them missing on my UK Stag years ago and also on my current Stag Down Under, their renewal, alone, was enough to cure my clutch judder.

regards,

Raoul

Hi Raoul

the whole clutch thing is new to me, though my other car was manual, i never had any probswith it. can these dowl bolt bits be done with the box in situ.

I have been told by a good stag source that if you take a turn off all the bellhousing bolts and take the weight of the box on ajack then do the boltsup again it can cure it . does this sound about right?

if that dosen't sort it i will take out engine and box in the winter and do it properly.

rgds and thanks all.

nick

[grahamb]

imported post

600 Miles in 3 weeks - old yella is seeing plenty of places. Is it running well Nick?

[Marco Polo]

imported post

Hi Nick,

The first time I did it was to replace the clutch so I didn't replace the bolts in situ.

When I did it on my current car, I loosened all the bolts and placed the dowel bolts in their holes first and torqued them. The box took some "jiggling" to make them fit. I then tightened and torqued the rest of the bolts.

I'm now replacing the clutch and the old cover plate had two distinctive wear patterns on it, the newer wear being "more concentric" than the old. I wish I had taken a photo, but the plate went into the bin last week.

regards,

Raoul

[dogsnadgers]

imported post

I have been told by a good stag source that if you take a turn off all the bellhousing bolts and take the weight of the box on ajack then do the boltsup again it can cure it . does this sound about right?

Its worth a try Nick, taking the box out is a pain, might take you two ot three goes to get the alignment right, if that's what it is!

Dave

[mad cyclist]

imported post

cheers dave