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    painting problem

    Hi all

    I had some damaged paintwork right on the edge of the lock plates behind the seats where the hardtop is locked in. Suspect thje edge of the hardtop did the damage. Took the lock plates off cleaned up the area, masked up and primed then painted. I've found then after I applied the paint, some of the painted area looks crazed and I wonder if this is because the touch up spray can (CarPlan) I am using might be cellulose paint and paint on the car might be 2 pack.

    Can anyone confirm that this would be the effect caused by appolying cellulose on top of two pack, or perhaps suggest what I might have done wrong?

    Thanks

    Gord

    #2
    Gord. What did you use to clean up the area? Panel wipe, water or something else? How long did you leave it to dry before applying the paint? Bruce

    Comment


      #3
      Hi Bruce

      Water, with probably about an hour before I applied the paint. It has been raining here today, so could it just be the moist air settling on the car? It's in the garage, but I did have the door open to apply the paint (so that I had better light to see what I was doing).

      Truth is, I'm still a novice at this, as you probably know

      Gord

      Comment


        #4
        How many coats did you spray, sounds like you put too much on in one go.

        Jeff.
        I only do what the voices in my wife’s head tell me to do!

        Comment


          #5
          Hi Jeff

          2 coats of primer and 2 of paint. I'm only trying to do quite small areas. I have done 2 or three areas, 2 look passable, but one looks quite crazed.

          Gord

          Comment


            #6
            Hi Gord,

            I assume the primer was ok and sound before top coat, did you flatten the primer? Not that it makes any difference to the crazing, just what's been put on the primer when wiped over.

            The damp shouldn't cause crazing unless the primer was actually wet when you sprayed the top coat, the damp would just cause a 'bloom' over the finished paint, like a milkiness.

            I had this years ago on a Citroen, just crazed for no known reason.

            Only way forward is to flatten down again, prime and top coat.

            Jeff.
            I only do what the voices in my wife’s head tell me to do!

            Comment


              #7
              Hi Jeff

              Yes, the primer was sound, and it had been left to dry for 24 hours before I applied the first paint coat. Flattened the primer with 1200 wet n dry, dried it off, then washed in soapy water, dried it off again, waited an hour, first coat of paint, then 30 minutes later 2nd coat, then left to dry. It was only when I removed the masking tape next day to see if there was an edge between new paint and old that I realised I has this crazed section.

              I guess I'll have to have another go.

              Gord

              Comment


                #8
                Hiya Gord, it's definitely a reaction, it sounds as if you did everything right. It won't be hi build crazing, it happened too quickly. Cellulose or enamel won't react with 2K if it's cured, aerosols are always packed with one of those unless you ordered something special. I'm betting it's a contaminant, possibly even soap residue, primers and undercoats are generally not water proof, so I always prep them dry, then use panel wipes. I'm betting when you re-do it there'll be no problems. Sorry, rambling again. Martin.

                Comment


                  #9
                  After flating the primer try panel wipe insted of soapy water ,celly will go over 2k ,but 2k will not go over celly
                  JOHN
                  MK 2 1977 FLAMENCO RED ,WEBER ,BELT DRIVEN WATER PUMP.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks, everyone, for the advice

                    I started to flatten the crazed area (about 2.5 inches x 0.25 inches) and it looks a lot better, the crazing mainly disappeared and now I am left with what looks like pitting on the original paint surface. If also feels rough to the fingers. Do I just keep sanding away the original paint until I get it smooth? I'd guess so, but would welcome any views on what might have caused the pitting. Just in case i am making mistakes with the process I am using.

                    Gord

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Hi Gord,

                      Yes you need to flatten the crazed area completely or the new primer will possibly get into the 'cracks' and penetrate unless you do very 'dry' coats and build them up. It is def a reaction of some sort which is why so many people shy away from using celly, but get it right and it will be great.

                      Jeff.
                      I only do what the voices in my wife’s head tell me to do!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Hi Jeff

                        Thanks again. The most anoying thing about this is that I have previously repainted a panel in the engine bay after the brake fluid had leaked out and damaged the paintwork in there; I seemed to make a reasonable job of that, and was pleased with the result. Also the two main areas I am trying to fix today look OK, but there was this other smaller area that I thought I might as well do at the same time. This is the one causing me the grief. Wish I hadn't bothered in some ways!!

                        Gord

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Just carry on Gord, it's tedious but you want to get rid of any residue. Martin.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Hi Gord. When you say you used soapy water to clean the area, was this with the masking tape in position? In other words did the masking tape get wet? From personal experience the water soaks into the tape and then get drawn out by the newly applied paint and creates craters and crazing etc. To prevent this, remove old tape, wash the area and only once fully dry do you apply new masking tape then the paint. Bruce

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Hi Bruce

                              Yes, it could well have been that simple.!! Ah, well, you live and learn!

                              Gord

                              Comment

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