Steering wobble - any idea of cause?

[KansasCityMilkman]

A few weeks ago, and virtually overnight, I picked up a steering wobble. Starts around 40mph and drives out at around 60mph.
Had the dreaded MOT last week and expected the worst however it went through with no advisories. I mentioned the wobble and they said there was nothing obvious but did balance the wheels as a first line of attack. No change.
The tyres are less than a year old and have done less than 1500 miles. The car is used at least twice weekly so no apparent flat spots.
Any ideas?
Thought I'd get it tracked up next.

[martin]

Hi, tracking is a good idea in any case, but for the wobble, try turning one front wheel 90 degrees on the hub having marked the stud opposite the valve, if that doesn't work, put it back where it was and repeat with the other wheel. I've had this work quite a few times, it's to do with the poor quality of the alloys. Martin.

[flying farmer]

It is always a good idea to lift the tyre just clear of the ground and spin the wheel. If you make a pointer (I use a nail on top of a brick) and align it with the edge of the wheel rim, you will more likely than not see the rim moving up and down. Sometimes there is enough movement on the studs to reposition the rim on the hub, or as martin says turn the rim on the studs a little. I have decided to fit some different wheels at some time in the next year as even with my best efforts I cannot stop an irritating vibration when I am travelling at more than 85mph (obviously not in this country officer!)
Neil

[martin]

Reference Flying Farmer's post, as I've said before on other posts, the centre of the original alloys is not always in the middle, so balancing on centering machines doesn't always work. The answer is on-car balancing, but the machines are like hens teeth. By moving the wheel on the hub, you can often overcome this failing, give it a go, it's free Martin.

[KansasCityMilkman]

Thanks guys - will give it a try in the next few days.

[Lingen]

If you draw a blank with balancing, double check that the lower ball joints aren't worn. I know the car has just passed the mot test, but so did mine-several times-before I found both of them were shot and causing wobbles, particularly on wet roads, when presumably the water lubricated the rust, allowing them to rattle about nicely! It may be that the tester jacked the car up in such a way that there was a load on the joints. You need to support the car under the front cross member with the tyres off the ground, then with the steering locked in the straight ahead position, hold each tyre in turn at the front and rear, and try to turn the steering from side to side-hard! Any slack in the joints will be clearly seen. They only seem to last a few years as they cannot be greased. Why not?

[martin]

If you draw a blank with balancing, double check that the lower ball joints aren't worn. I know the car has just passed the mot test, but so did mine-several times-before I found both of them were shot and causing wobbles, particularly on wet roads, when presumably the water lubricated the rust, allowing them to rattle about nicely! It may be that the tester jacked the car up in such a way that there was a load on the joints. You need to support the car under the front cross member with the tyres off the ground, then with the steering locked in the straight ahead position, hold each tyre in turn at the front and rear, and try to turn the steering from side to side-hard! Any slack in the joints will be clearly seen. They only seem to last a few years as they cannot be greased. Why not?

When they first appeared, these were known as "Sealed for life" joints, while not quite true, they did generally last well. For a long time now, there's been a stock of poor quality ones available from some suppliers, I've had one that lasted 14 months, when I tore the gaiter off it was obvious there had never been any grease in it. Sorry mate, but you did ask Martin.

[Mike J]

I'm trying to resolve the same problem. Mine occurs on right hand bends at about 55. It's not wheel balance, lower ball joints, bearings,tyres. I'm now down to track rod ends or steering rack. Track rod ends first.

[Andrew S]

My Father has had a wheel wobble at 50-55mph. As he had had the wheels recently balanced, we ruled it and replaced the lower swivel joints, track rod end, drag strut rubbers which needed doing anyway along with the control arm bush and it was still there. We then replaced his dripping power steering rack thinking there maybe play there. Made no difference.

Finally, put one of my wheels on one side, and a short test drive later, no wobble. Put the recently balanced wheel on again and it was back. He took the wheel down to another Kwik named place and had it rebalanced and its now gone. So, what I am saying is, don't trust a tyre place and borrow another set of wheels or just one so that you know which side is the problem.

Fortunately all of his work needed doing so got a new front end out of the problem

Andrew

[Mike J]

My vibrating saga I hope is coming to an end. After re placing pretty much all of the front suspension that could be replaced. Had the car checked again today, where I have It MOTed, and one of the bushes on the wishbone is completely off center. With a large gap down one side. I replaced this October 2010 as part of an "Original" full replacement kit from Rimmers. So will be contacting them tomorrow. Fittchets have original ones. Hopefully this will sort sort my bad vibes. Now worried about all the other bushes I have replaced from the Rimmers Kit. Mike

[jleyton]

.... one of the bushes on the wishbone is completely off center. With a large gap down one side. Mike

Hi Mike,

I'm interested to hear this - can you explain a bit more?

My interest is because when I refurbed my front suspension, I noticed that one of my inner radius arm bushes (the one that fixes to the subframe) had moved backwards in the radius arm and was actually rubbing against the subframe.

I replaced it but when I was looking at my car the other day I noticed that it's happened again. My guess is that there is some misalignment that is pulling it backwards - rather than faulty parts. In fact, I can see that some repair work has been done around the rear drag strut mount and I guess that this may be slightly misaligned.

Has anybody heard of anything like this before?

Cheers

Julian

[martin]

That's good news. The current rubber bushes are made "abroad" and are not to the standard of the originals. The solution, is to use the dark blue ones, the same compliance as original but with Poly reliability, ease of fitting, and long life. Martin.

[DJT]

My vibrating saga I hope is coming to an end. After re placing pretty much all of the front suspension that could be replaced. Had the car checked again today, where I have It MOTed, and one of the bushes on the wishbone is completely off center. With a large gap down one side. I replaced this October 2010 as part of an "Original" full replacement kit from Rimmers. So will be contacting them tomorrow. Fittchets have original ones. Hopefully this will sort sort my bad vibes. Now worried about all the other bushes I have replaced from the Rimmers Kit. Mike

See this article from the latest Triumph World. The subject is Chris Liles' early Stag restoration. I think the photo at the bottom of the page shows what you have found:


Suspension.jpg

Dave

[jleyton]

Thanks for that Dave, but as I couldn't quite read it I've gone out and bought a copy. I used to subscribe to Triumph World but cancelled it some time ago as there didn't seem to be much Stag stuff !

The non centralised track control arm bush is exactly what I've got. I replaced it a few thousand miles ago and I know it was in the correct position then but its moved since. It does however seem to still be in good condition.

My best guess is the drag link is not quite right and is 'pulling' the lower part of the strut backwards. Has anybody experienced a similar thing?

Cheers

Julian

[StagnJag]

I have had all sorts of trouble with rubber bits not lasting very long. I am on my third set of half shaft gaiters in three and a half years of ownership (The ones that cover the splined joint) and I have a fourth set on standby as this years replacements are just about to give up. I am systematically replacing my replaced rubber bits with Poly now as the quality is generally very poor.

Rgds

Dave