Voltage Stabiliser

[Bazstag]

After having my temp/ fuel gauges fluctuating more often, I've now replaced the stabiliser with one I've made from Maplins, however, on a run about tonight the temp needle sat on the 'E', when as before it was always on the 'M' halfway mark and when I put petrol in this showed lower than it normally does as well. Two years ago I remember breaking down because I ran out of petrol, even though the gauge showed just under 1/4 a tank.
Have I always been running about with the wrong readings?
Baz

[martin]

Hi Baz, short answer - yes. M.

[Bazstag]

Hi Baz, short answer - yes. M.

Thanks Martin, at least I got one post from 80+....

[Staggard]

Thanks Martin, at least I got one post from 80+....

I don't think you have been ignored and I suspect a lot of people agree with Martin. But if you want to go into it deeper you have to do more work eg (as far as I can think offhand) drain the tank half fill it check it on the gauge it's difficult to know how accurate these gauges are you see to me (as much as we would like it) E on the temp seems a bit low, we will see if any other idears flood in.

[Westfaling]

Baz
What output voltage are you using on the voltage stabiliser?
Nick

[Bazstag]

Baz
What output voltage are you using on the voltage stabiliser?
Nick

I've got 10.4v on the output Nick

[Duncan Skye]

I don't think you have been ignored and I suspect a lot of people agree with Martin. But if you want to go into it deeper you have to do more work eg (as far as I can think offhand) drain the tank half fill it check it on the gauge it's difficult to know how accurate these gauges are you see to me (as much as we would like it) E on the temp seems a bit low, we will see if any other idears flood in.

Here's one.. When fitting a replacement fuel sender, the gauge reading was way out. Fortunately, I knew exactly how much fuel was in the tank as I had just put 10 litres in from empty, so I bent the wire to the float inside the tank until I got the reading I wanted. As its a 58 Litre tank, I was happy to have it reading just over a quarter, which would give me a calculable distance to run from that point until I really got nervous. As a rule of thumb, if your gauge reading is too high, bend the float wire to 'raise' the float, (this has the effect of telling the sender that the float is lower) and conversely if your reading is too low, bend the wire to 'lower' the float, (which tells the sender the float is higher than it actually is) then fit it to the tank and see what reading you've got. A couple of points, though. Work in good ventilation and don't generate any electrical sparks in the boot, as the fuel tank has been open. Take care not to stress the sender unit if bending the wire, and don't split the float either. Use two pairs of pliers to bend the wire. And before you start, it might be worth making an outline tracing of the relationship between the sender unit and the wire float arm, so that your original reference point doesn't get lost.

Once you're happy, note that the accuracy of the system may be variable in use and that the only point which may be known is the one you set.

Hope that helps.

Duncan, Skye.

[martin]

Hi Baz, 10.4v is spot on. Is it an electronic one ? The issue of the level float is a different matter, the currently available ones are universal, they just don't bother to warn you, the idea is to bend the new one to match the old. Martin.

[Bazstag]

Hi Baz, 10.4v is spot on. Is it an electronic one ? The issue of the level float is a different matter, the currently available ones are universal, they just don't bother to warn you, the idea is to bend the new one to match the old. Martin.

Yes Martin, it is an electronic one and as you and Duncan have stated I bent the float to match the gauge 2 years ago. I'm not overly concerned about the fuel gauge, its the temperature side of things I want to be sure of. I've never had any overheating problems in the past so I'll keep a watch on it and see how it goes.
Baz

[martin]

Hi Baz, you probably haven't got overheating problems now ! The electronic sender is notoriously inaccurate. The cheap option is to get a new one from LD Parts, the best, is to fit a proper capilliary gauge, preferably the MGB type oil pressure /temp one. The difference between half way, and the start of the red is about 5 degrees, so well worth having something accurate. Martin.

[richardthestag]

If both temp and fuel gauge were overreading then I would be looking at voltage stabailiser earth. Mine is earthed to back of tacho iirc but I extended that to one of the dash frame bolts. never had a problem since.

oh except when the fuel sender started playing silly buggers and I ran out of fuel with 1/4 showing on the gauge. it packed up altogether shortly after and a new sender fixed it