I'm going to renew the sump gasket on my 35 autobox, i've seen on diagrams two seals on the cross shaft, does anyone know if i can change these with the box in the car? any info greatly appreciated. Baz
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Hi Baz,
I don't see why you should not be able todig the cross shaft seals out and replace them with the box in situ. These and the rear seal are more likely to leak than the sump gasket. Have you got the later alloy sump pan?
Be carefulthat you get the sump bolts back in the correct position. If you put one of the slightly longer bolts that hold the anti vibration straps at the frontinto the rear centre hole it canbreak a lump off the back of the box.
Mark.
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Mark S wrote:Thanks for the info Mark, will make sure these are put aside in orderHi Baz,
Be carefulthat you get the sump bolts back in the correct position. If you put one of the slightly longer bolts that hold the anti vibration straps at the frontinto the rear centre hole it canbreak a lump off the back of the box.
Mark.
, the majority of the leak seems to be coming from the gasket & poss' small amount from the x shaft seal, cant quite see for the exhaust but will be taking these off (as there's a small leak from the diff seal) so i'll have a closer look. By the way i see your north lincs, where are you? Cheers Baz
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Hi Baz
If youris leaking slightly it is most likely a blocked breather see this thread http://stagownersclub.mywowbb.com/vi...=Diff+breather
Use a peice of cardboard numbered for each of the bolts so they don't get mixed up!
Stuart
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stustag wrote:Hi Stuart, checked the breather a couple of weeks ago after reading that post, did it the way one of the members suggested i.e o/s/r wheel, the breathers fine as the pin moves quite freely. As you have previously done, going to replace the seal & bearing, was it quite easy to change the bearing? the seal looks easy, i think:?. BazHi Baz
If youris leaking slightly it is most likely a blocked breather see this thread http://stagownersclub.mywowbb.com/vi...=Diff+breather
Stuart
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Hi Baz
The bearing was the easy bit! As long as you remember to knock the bearing out (towards the prop-shaft end) then once the bearing is starting to show it won't come out to far as there's a circlip behind the bearing stopping the shaft travelling to far forward, knock the quill shaft out (towards the diff end)the other way it's dead simple.
Theoil sealon the other hand if the original Metal with Leather was a pig to get out as it takes some serious punch and hammer action to remove it. The new one took about 30 seconds to put in. Remember to drain all the old oil out before putting the new seal in.
Stuart
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. Baz
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