Hello everyone, I am about to remove my oil pump and the oil transfer housing to replace all the O rings as both the pump and housing are leaking, could anyone who has carried out this work before forewarn me of any little traps I may come across, it all looks straightforward in the manuals which I know from experience is not always the case....Steve
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Hi Steve,
The hardest thing for me was accessIIRC, to remove the oil pump you need to drop/remove the front exhaust pipe and the transfer housing isn't much easier
. Apart from that, it's all pretty straightforward.
Are you thinking of checking/overhauling the pump while it's out? - it is a doddle to dismantle and all of the vital dimensions are in the ROM.
And yes, I can vouch for the Vaseline trick (). I'd replaced big ends and mains as well as overhauling pump (I also drilled and tapped an additional hole for my OPG in the transfer housing). Anyway, start up was going to be critical and so I packed the pump with Vaseline and then removed the distributor and drove the oil pump, via the drive shaft, with an electric drill and the pressure came up nicely. Someone else on here recently left their engine drained for a day or two and the pump just wouldn't prime itself so I reckon this is well worth doing.
Btw Don't believe the Parts Manual - there isn't a gasket between the pump and the block (although possibly a few early cars had one)
Cheers
Julian
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If its an auto you will definately need to drop/remove the downpipe. To get proper access i had to remove the pipe which involved seperating it from the first joint on the exhaust. Dont do this (as i did) with the downpipe still connected to the manifold, I cracked the seal between the manifold and head and ended up having to remove this as well in order to make an air tight seal again. Managed the o rings in the transfer housing without removing anything but its very awkward. If your relatively quick you should not need to prime the pump, mine was okay.
Steve
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Steve, might be an opertunity to check the pump as Julian said. I found that mine was full of grooves, why I'll never know, although it gave good pressure readings, but it was the original pump not a county one, and probably was grooved when the engine was trashed back in 79. It looked like something had worked it's way into the pump, probably then.
I fitted new county pump with the old pressure valve, going on advice from guys on this forum.
pretty straight forward job to be honest, and one of the first jobs I tackled myself after numerous garage let downs
Good luck
Mike
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Originally posted by terry View PostHave you got a decent Oil Pressure gauge fitted in the car or just the standard electrical one,
as now would be a good opportunity to fit the "T" piece necessary for an oil pressure gauge that actually uses the oil to drive it (eg. Paddocks one)
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Originally posted by StagnJag View PostOnly things I can think of are to make sure you don't loose the drive shaft, and try to prime the pump before re-assembly. Fill with oil. I have heard of Vasaline being used but someone will have to confirm that!
Rgds
Dave
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Originally posted by Stevekid1 View PostIf its an auto you will definately need to drop/remove the downpipe. To get proper access i had to remove the pipe which involved seperating it from the first joint on the exhaust. Dont do this (as i did) with the downpipe still connected to the manifold, I cracked the seal between the manifold and head and ended up having to remove this as well in order to make an air tight seal again. Managed the o rings in the transfer housing without removing anything but its very awkward. If your relatively quick you should not need to prime the pump, mine was okay.
Steve
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Originally posted by Moraystag View PostSteve, might be an opertunity to check the pump as Julian said. I found that mine was full of grooves, why I'll never know, although it gave good pressure readings, but it was the original pump not a county one, and probably was grooved when the engine was trashed back in 79. It looked like something had worked it's way into the pump, probably then.
I fitted new county pump with the old pressure valve, going on advice from guys on this forum.
pretty straight forward job to be honest, and one of the first jobs I tackled myself after numerous garage let downs
Good luck
Mike
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Steve, You will not be spending most of the time watching gauges. I have a dual oil/water temperature gauge, capillary type, replacing the clock. More accurate than the current method of a light and the electronic water gauge. I have two water temperature gauges, the single one replacing the old electronic one. They read off the back of each cylinder head thus giving me an indication of balanced water temperatures.
Rod
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Originally posted by therat04 View PostHello Terry i have not got an oil pressure gauge just the dash light, and to be honest i don't want one being of the paranoid persuasion i would spend most of the time looking at it, I would then miss the temp gauge overheating!! ...Steve
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Originally posted by 404ROD View PostSteve, You will not be spending most of the time watching gauges. I have a dual oil/water temperature gauge, capillary type, replacing the clock. More accurate than the current method of a light and the electronic water gauge. I have two water temperature gauges, the single one replacing the old electronic one. They read off the back of each cylinder head thus giving me an indication of balanced water temperatures.
Rod
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