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Once you have the inlet manifold out of the way, turn the engine to tdc on the timing mark on the camshaft you should see a line on the camshaft which will line up with the camshaft bearing cap # 1 I believe. Once you have that in position that leave it there, you then need to remove the two bolts holding the timing gear to the camshaft there should be a bracket that will hold the gear in position you hold the gear on by placing a nut on the stub shaft. Put some rags to stop any bits falling into the the timing cover area and sump. If the head is free and you have one stud left move the head up just high enough to get a small pipe wrench on the stud and it should come out once you have that bit done the head will lift off.
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Russ is the expert on this and will give you a better diagnosis but it looks like the valve guide in loose in the head for it to move like that. It also makes me wonder what damage it may have caused to the head and if it is Salvageable. The fact that it's covered in carbon if evidence that exhaust gages are escaping, best of luck.
Ian.
Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic
when you say damage to the head, what is that likely to be?
I ve just looked down the hole to see if I can fathom out whats going on, the sppring seems to be okay, what I can see of it, so I am thinking stem guide, but am worried now as to else may have happened
The Guide is harder than the head so if it's been going up and down when the valve opens it may have worn the hole that it is pressed into to such an extent that it's over sized or misshapen for a new one to be fitted.
Wise men ignore the advice of fools, but fools ignore the advice of wise men sigpic
Exactly what I have just done on another Stag, good news or bad news depending on how you look at it. The valve spring looks like it has been broken for a while, and so when the valve has been operated the busted spring has biased the valve as it travelled down and has worn the valve stem, and probably the guide too, but you will probably be lucky and the guide is still firm in the head.
I changed my own guides, so it can be done at home if you are brave, have a gas barbeque, and some common sense/guidance and a 0.3125" chucking reamer.
Main thing is to get the head off, then you can dismantle, and either send the head for repair to someone, get an Exchange head (not always recommended as a single due to amount of skimming) or light the barbie!
If you think I can assist with advice, give me a ring...
Hi Russ, I am sure you would be able to ..I am back to work tommo, I will try and give you a ring, I need to be able to get the head off and I am struggling at the mo..I had a chat with Dave B earlier and we agreed that the 2 broken studs are probably fused to the head in between the threads..so I need some penetrating fluid to find its way down there..Once I get the head off then I will send it away for a skim, Paddocks do a head rebuild kit which Imight get..do the stems/guides need to be pressed in place?
With the one I've just done, my initial thought was the guide was loose in the head due to the movement, but it was just very bad wear. A standard guide replacement was all that was needed. There are oversized guides available, and a competent machine shop could make up whatever you needed, so stop panicking about a new head.
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