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    Sticky rev counter

    Does anyone else have this problem? Rev needle is way too low, works ok for a few mins after a few taps on the glass, other times works fine from the off. There's no problem with the ignition, no misfiring - engine sweet as a nut, so I'm convinced the problem is with the needle/spindle on the counter itself.

    If anyone has had the same problem and managed to resolve some way other than replacing the rev counter I'm all ears.

    Thanks!

    #2
    RVI or RVC?

    Comment


      #3
      er...

      It's blue. Oh and manual, a 1973 MkII. Does that help?

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Richard Saunders View Post
        er...

        It's blue. Oh and manual, a 1973 MkII. Does that help?
        on the rev-counter face it will have a number - it should start with RVI or RVC

        Comment


          #5
          Mk2, probably RVI Andy.

          In all honesty Richard, sounds like its been the victim of damp and old age, just like me.

          Worth a punt at dismantling and cleaning, possibly a tiny dab of sewing machine oil on the meter spindle, but I would start looking for a decent secondhand one.

          Try Stag157.7 on the forum, he is the go-to gauge man..... might be able to point you in the direction of another rev counter

          Russ

          Comment


            #6
            there was actually three types of rev counter used on stags

            MK 1 were RVI and were all induction sense

            EARLY MK2 were coded RVC but used the same case and set up as the early rv1 units( they were basically upgraded to work on volt sense)

            easy way to tell is all RV1 rev counters have the face plate attachment screws horizontally opposed

            Same with the early mk 2 units(attachment screws horizontally opposed) also these units had an adjustable potentiometer fitted to trim the pointer to the rpm

            later mk 2 the case and internals were all upgraded to a more basic unit (not as good as the early ones in terms of reliability with capacitors and thermistors failing)

            these units have the face plate attachment screws vertically opposed


            THE REASON YOU HAVE TO TAP THE GLASS IS THE UNIT IS STICKING ON THE METER UNIT ,DUE TO AGED HARDENED FLUX ON IT

            ALAN

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              #7
              thanks everyone. Appreciate the responses...

              Comment


                #8
                Cant believe it ,mine just started doing this today,usually it either works or it doesn't but today it stayed around the 1000rpm mark give or take 500rpm irispective of the engine revs.I've got another duff spare so may take that apart to get an idea of whats what before tackling the one in my dash.

                Steve

                Comment


                  #9
                  Must be something in the air; mine decided to work properly as well...

                  Comment

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