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A "bit" might not be enough. A stud extractor is a tool that tightens on the stud (now your bolts have no heads, they are studs) the more pressure you apply to try an unscrew them the tighter the tool grips. If you have enough meat left to get hold of, a good few days soak in plus gas, the application of heat on the aluminium with a blow torch to expand it and a stud extractor might get get them out for you. Otherwise its the risky business of drilling them out in situ and then helicoiling or manifold off time to get it done professionally I am afraid.
A "bit" might not be enough. A stud extractor is a tool that tightens on the stud (now your bolts have no heads, they are studs) the more pressure you apply to try an unscrew them the tighter the tool grips. If you have enough meat left to get hold of, a good few days soak in plus gas, the application of heat on the aluminium with a blow torch to expand it and a stud extractor might get get them out for you. Otherwise its the risky business of drilling them out in situ and then helicoiling or manifold off time to get it done professionally I am afraid.
ian
i mite sound a bit thick but what does a stud extractor look like
Unless you have at least 5mm of bolt for it to grip,I fear it would be a waste of time trying. Also although that type of stud extractor is very good it's not great in tight spaces. There are extractors that tap a left hand thread into a hole you drill into the stud. I have never had one of these work. Also as they are hardened steel taps, if it breaks you then end up with an un-drillable stud because it now has a center that's filled with tool steel.
Tough one this. I hate to be the one to have to tell you but you may well be in a manifold off situation. Shame cos your engine looks lovely now *and* you only just got it fired up :-(
[QUOTE=Ian Durrant;158930]Unless you have at least 5mm of bolt for it to grip,I fear it would be a waste of time trying. Also although that type of stud extractor is very good it's not great in tight spaces. There are extractors that tap a left hand thread into a hole you drill into the stud. I have never had one of these work. Also as they are hardened steel taps, if it breaks you then end up with an un-drillable stud because it now has a center that's filled with tool steel.
Tough one this. I hate to be the one to have to tell you but you may well be in a manifold off situation. Shame cos your engine looks lovely now *and* you only just got it fired up :-([/QUOTE ian
that is definately not what i wanted to here ( manifold off )
been on youtube and people weld a nut to the broken stud, they say the heat from the welding brakes up the rust, will this method work with alli and steel
been on youtube and people weld a nut to the broken stud, they say the heat from the welding brakes up the rust, will this method work with alli and steel
dave
if you have enough to weld to it might! Still soak it in plus gas first, the deeper it penetrates before you hit it with heat the more the heat will help it's penetration!
Both of my thermostat housing bolts had stripped their threads in the inlet manifold so I had to helicoil them. Trouble was, I couldn't get a drill in there. I bought one of these 90 degree drill attachments and was then able to drill it easily.
You could do the same - drill out the old bolts, helicoil the holes and fit new bolts and you don't even have to worry about the seized old bolts.
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