oil/temp gauge

[new to this]

has any one fitted a oil/temp gauge, do you have to modify the water transfer housing

dave

[iani]

I have one, I didn't have to modify the tx housing but I did need an adaptor. Speak to the good folk at the MGB Hive and they will sell you the necessary.

Ian

[martin]

I have seen one advertised that fits in place of the sump plug, can't imagine where the gauge would go. I have a working clock and a dual gauge in place of the old temp one.
Agree with Ian, MGB Hive are brilliant ! Martin.

[Duncan Skye]

has any one fitted a oil/temp gauge, do you have to modify the water transfer housing

dave

Hi Dave,

I'm not sure if you mean a straight Oil Temperature gauge, which you're getting answers for, or the combined Oil Pressure/Water Temperature gauge which is also readily available.

If it's the latter, I got one from Rimmers and you need to send your right hand water transfer housing back to them as an exchange item, because they send you a modified one that takes the new water temperature sender. The original temp transmitter in the L.H. transfer housing becomes redundant. The combined gauge is a straight swap for the existing water temp gauge in the dash, but you may also need to buy an oil pressure 'T' piece and oil pipe to conduct the pressure to the back of the new gauge. Using the 'T' piece allows you to retain the low oil pressure warning light facility.

If this is what you're looking for and want a piccy, let me know and I'll post it.

With best wishes,
Duncan, Skye.

[Dave M]

I have the combined water temp and oil pressure gauge fitted to my Stag. The oil pressure needs a tee piece fitting where the oil pressure switch is mounted on the engine as Duncan says.
The temp sender can be fitted in place of the existing electrical sender but requires an adapter which from what others have said is available from the MGB hive, my mate machined me one on his lathe. Fitting the temp sender to the right hand transfer housing gives you the option of retaining the electrical gauge and monitoring the temp of both heads, IMO it is easier to replace the existing sensor with an adapter if the engine is in the car, if its out then changing the transfer housing is far easier than trying to do it with the engine in situ.

Dave

[Duncan Skye]

I have the combined water temp and oil pressure gauge fitted to my Stag. The oil pressure needs a tee piece fitting where the oil pressure switch is mounted on the engine as Duncan says.
The temp sender can be fitted in place of the existing electrical sender but requires an adapter which from what others have said is available from the MGB hive, my mate machined me one on his lathe. Fitting the temp sender to the right hand transfer housing gives you the option of retaining the electrical gauge and monitoring the temp of both heads, IMO it is easier to replace the existing sensor with an adapter if the engine is in the car, if its out then changing the transfer housing is far easier than trying to do it with the engine in situ.

Dave

Oh, that's even better so long as you're happy to replace the existing electrical temp sender. That would be much easier than replacing the transfer housing with the engine in situ. Another point in favour of fitting the sender there, is that the capilliary tube that comes with the new gauge is long enough to reach the left hand head (on a right hand drive car).

Duncan, Skye.

[Dave M]

Oh, that's even better so long as you're happy to replace the existing electrical temp sender. That would be much easier than replacing the transfer housing with the engine in situ. Another point in favour of fitting the sender there, is that the capilliary tube that comes with the new gauge is long enough to reach the left hand head (on a right hand drive car).

Duncan, Skye.

Even fitted to the LH head the capillary on mine is too long and I ended up having to coil up the excess. I also had a scare with mine once as the excess capillary tube dropped down and was touching the exhaust manifold given me a high temp reading which was worrying at the time but huge relief when I repositioned the capillary and all was well.

Dave

[jleyton]

The oil pressure needs a tee piece fitting where the oil pressure switch is mounted on the engine as Duncan says.
Dave

If you want a really tidy fitment you can drill the oil transfer housing for a separate output to the oil pressure gauge.

There is a boss, next to the oil pressure sensor that can be drilled and tapped for this. I did it and, although it makes no difference to the end result, it just looks neater. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures when I did mine.

Cheers

Julian

[MB]

If you do mean oil temperature gauge I have a capillary one installed where the clock was, connected via an inline adaptor in the engine oil cooler pipes. A dual water temp/oil pressure where the original water temp gauge was.
Why do bods make such a fuss about having a working clock? Modern Radios have one built in or you can have a watch that fits on your wrist these days

[martin]

If you do mean oil temperature gauge I have a capillary one installed where the clock was, connected via an inline adaptor in the engine oil cooler pipes. A dual water temp/oil pressure where the original water temp gauge was.
Why do bods make such a fuss about having a working clock? Modern Radios have one built in or you can have a watch that fits on your wrist these days

BODS ? I'm not a BOD ! - too old for that The clock is meant to be there and I like it so yah boo sucks to you - you - BOD.

[AlanD]

go Martin!!!!!!

[martin]

go Martin!!!!!!

Oh yes - keep going at all costs - doin' me best Guvn'r.

[new to this]

Hi Dave,

I'm not sure if you mean a straight Oil Temperature gauge, which you're getting answers for, or the combined Oil Pressure/Water Temperature gauge which is also readily available.

If it's the latter, I got one from Rimmers and you need to send your right hand water transfer housing back to them as an exchange item, because they send you a modified one that takes the new water temperature sender. The original temp transmitter in the L.H. transfer housing becomes redundant. The combined gauge is a straight swap for the existing water temp gauge in the dash, but you may also need to buy an oil pressure 'T' piece and oil pipe to conduct the pressure to the back of the new gauge. Using the 'T' piece allows you to retain the low oil pressure warning light facility.

If this is what you're looking for and want a piccy, let me know and I'll post it.

With best wishes,
Duncan, Skye.

duncan

do you know what size the hole is for the new temperture sender,and could you post a photo

thanks dave

[new to this]

I have the combined water temp and oil pressure gauge fitted to my Stag. The oil pressure needs a tee piece fitting where the oil pressure switch is mounted on the engine as Duncan says.
The temp sender can be fitted in place of the existing electrical sender but requires an adapter which from what others have said is available from the MGB hive, my mate machined me one on his lathe. Fitting the temp sender to the right hand transfer housing gives you the option of retaining the electrical gauge and monitoring the temp of both heads, IMO it is easier to replace the existing sensor with an adapter if the engine is in the car, if its out then changing the transfer housing is far easier than trying to do it with the engine in situ.

Dave

dave

at the moment i have the electrical sender in the right head, but have threaded the left housing and run water pipe to both heads, could you post a picture of what this adapter looks like, would it be possible to fit the capillary tube in the bottom of the water transfer housing

p.s if you just put the capillary tube in a glass of hot water, would it give a reading on the gauge, trying to check if it works as bought of ebay

dave

[MB]

"BODS ? I'm not a BOD ! - too old for that"

Probably true, more farmer Barleymow or Aunt Flo
Bods(front).gif