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Tips on reffiting the Cylinder Head

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    Tips on reffiting the Cylinder Head

    Hopefullynext weekend I willbe putting the LH Cylinder Head back onto the car. This is a first fr me so am lookng for some tips from theforum to try andprevent any errors.

    Some immediate questions that come to mind are

    1. How to ensure that after fitting of the CH, that the exhaust and especially the inlet manifoldscan bealigned and fitted correctly?

    2. Should I fit the above before attaching the CH to the engine or should I fit the above before torquing everyhing up?

    3. Should I use any sealants on the CH?

    4. Anything special for the studs I should think about?

    TIA



    #2
    imported post

    There will be many opinions on this but if re-fitting one or both heads I would fit the inlet manifold before finally torqueing down the heads, thus enabling correctalignment.

    Lightly copaslip the studs to help prevent them welding themselves to the alloy. I mean lightly though, not slaveredin it.

    If you are using good quality gaskets which of course you are, then probably no need for sealents, though some recommend wellseal, use spray on if you are goingto use it then you get an even coat and no high spots like you would usinga thick goop from a tube!

    Hope this helps. Dave

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      #3
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      Thanks for the advice. Yes I was expecting some differingviews.

      Regarding the studs do youcover the whole stud or just the threads?

      Comment


        #4
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        SwissSteve wrote:
        Thanks for the advice. Yes I was expecting some differingviews.

        Regarding the studs do youcover the whole stud or just the threads?
        Steve,

        DON'T use copper-based grease on the threads. This reduces the friction and upsets the torque readings. Threads should be clean and dry. (This goes for wheel nuts as well by the way!). Use copper-based grease or, preferably, Molykote 1000 on the stud and bolt shafts.

        Fit the head loosely and then tighten the inlet manifold to it using the recommended torque. Check inlet manifold bolt hole threads before fitting and helicoil if in doubt. Helps to countersink them slightly as they may have pulled up over time. Finally tighten the head to the correct torque. Run the engine up to temp. Allow to cool overnight and re-torque.

        Dave
        Dave
        1974 Mk2, ZF Auto, 3.45 Diff, Datsun Driveshafts. Stag owner/maintainer since 1989.

        Comment


          #5
          imported post

          I used wellseal (from a tube) on the head gaskets and inlet gaskets, both sides. Although others will say it is unneccessary, it works for me, so far at least.

          You may like to take advice given earlier on this forum and have the inlet manifold threads on the heads helicoiled to pre-empt problems later.

          Also, only use cop....

          I'll stop now DJT has beaten me to it!
          ZF 4 spd box, Datsun shafts, SS exhaust, 38DGMS weber 158.9bhp, BMW MC Tomcat seatssigpic

          Comment


            #6
            imported post

            I love the sentence "Finally tighten the head to the correct torque. Run the engine up to temp" What will take me about 4 to 6 weeks part time as an amateur to do ( radiator, inlets exhaust, electrics etc ) you guys make it sound like a few hours work.

            Still, I am enjoying learningabout the carfromyou guys. My wife has zero faiththat this car will ever run again. Lets see if I can surprise her withthe help of the forum.






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              #7
              imported post

              Sorry I should have made it clear that I meant the copaslipping the stud, not the threads, also good advice from Dave and Kevin re helicoiling, I did all mine in the end so better to do it before trying to replace the head and save taking it all off again, the last half turn of the last bolt is always the one to strip the thread! Do the thermostat housing threads while you have the manifold off then you know all are sound. Watch your bolt lengths if you have the thermostat out, the lower one is the shorter one.

              Dave

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                #8
                imported post

                also worth having the inlet manifold machined if you have had the heads skimmed, as othewise it will not mate up as well as it should, if its not been said tighten down one head then tighten down the manifold to the other head then tighten down the second head. i always put the exhaust manifolds on b4 fitting.

                you should at this point while chanting alligance to all things from canly, turn you tibetan prayer wheels ( rimmers 1634523pw) and sprinkle the engine bay with holy water.

                the above is of course not true...rimmers dont sell prayer wheels

                rgds Nick

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                  #9
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                  . You know just how to cheer me up ...

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                    #10
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                    SwissSteve wrote:
                    . You know just how to cheer me up ...
                    thats what nursie says before she gives me my night night injection:shock:

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                      #11
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                      Hey going by your photo we have the same colour car! The only difference is your goes

                      Comment


                        #12
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                        I have always used 2 cut down old head studs with a big screwdriver slot and ground to a bit of a taper at the top,loosely fitted in the block bolt holes (the 2 short bolts) where the spark plugs go at the bottom - it really helps align the heads as you are offering them up and stops them slipping about and damaging the gasket while you get the rest of the studs and bolts started.

                        Then just unscrew them with a screwdriver and extract them to fit the short bolts before tightening.

                        Russ

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