puddle light

[mad cyclist]

my passenger puddle light does not work but when i open the passenger door the drivers door light comes on...????

no interior light come on the switch one on c/console does butnot when the doors are opened, pretty sure they have seperate bulbs. any ideas guys?

rgds Nick

[Guest]

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Nick, take the switch out of the console and clean the contacts, i used wd40. I think this switch also acts as a junction box for the interior lights. The purple wireswith orange ( may be red?) stripe should be on the same side of the switch ( i.e. one on one contact one on the other)

Stan

[grahamb]

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Mine do something stange as well. Bet you sort it before I do!

[GDPR]

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Mine was doing the same, but is working great now- I just flooded the switch with WD40 and became violently abusive to the switch - didn't even take it out of the console - proper job!!

Moving on to try carb balancing with a 14lb sledgehammer andkickdown cable adjustment with athermic lance next

Russ

[John Wright]

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I have just been fitting an alarm/immobilser and this is triggered (amongst other things) from the doors being opened. Consequently I have been llookingn at the light switching. I was surprised to find (and had not noticed) that when you open the drivers door, the roof light comes on and only the drivers side puddle light. A similar thing happens on the passenger side. When the centre console light switch is operated all three lights come on. My problem was that I needed a single feed (either grounded or going to +12) when either door was opened. I was very puzzled about how the switch could work without a relay, and I finally discouvered when I opened the roof light to discover that it has two bulbs. One comes on when the drivers door is opened and the other when the passenger door is opened. When the switch on the console is operated, both come on. I then checked the manual, and although my wiring looks original, it is quite different from the curcuit diagram shown. The manual does show the two bulbs though, which I had missed. Knowing this might help you sort out the probelms.

One other thing I noticed from the circuit diagrams of the UK models is that the hazard warning switch and flasher are missing. They are however in the US circuits and my car seems to be wired to match.

John

[mad cyclist]

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thanks John

that was far more useful than Russ (21 years a spanner man's ) reply.

i knew it had 2 bulds but did not know why, will have a look later.

rgds Nick

[GDPR]

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I never said it would be useful Nick, or even interesting....

[grahamb]

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so my little wiring anomaly is down to my security set-up then - excellent news

[mad cyclist]

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kryten wrote:

I never said it would be useful Nick, or even interesting....

dont worry fella it was at least amusing

getting some wd and a larger mallet today

[John Wright]

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grahamb wrote:

so my little wiring anomaly is down to my security set-up then - excellent news

Fitting an alram/imobiliser to the Stag turned out to be more involved than I had thought. I have had to fit a number of relays to overcome the wiring anomalies that Triumph used. The door switches is one. My door switches connect one side of the interior lights (either left side or right side) to the body, and the other side of the lights goes to a permanent +12 (i.e. not through the ignition switch). The circuit in the manual shows non-grounding switches with 2 wires. I have mounted 2 relays with one side of their coils connected to a permanent +12V and the other sides connected to each of the door switches. The relay contacts are wired in parallel with one side grounded and the other side connected to the alarm controller (in the case of the Portman, the white wire). This allows the interior lights to operate normally and trigger the alarm if either door is opened. Relays are available from Maplin (part # N00A, £1.98 each).

[GDPR]

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I hadmy alarmdone professionally by the local stereo/alarm place - happily for a fixed price as I know they worked a full day on it!

I don't know what they did, but the whole interior light system works exactly as it should and what's more opening the boot or bonnet doesn't turn on the interior lamps.........

Russ

[KOY 23]

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If your door switches switch to ground, as on later Stags (1975 onwards) You can do it another way by using 2 diodes joined together so that one end of each diode goes to each door switch and the common connection between them goes to the alarm. The lights will then operate independently side to side.
Your method using relays is ideal for the earlier version, if the alarm needs switching to ground.

The later system switching to ground is much safer in case the switch fails or a wire falls off, the lights will come on, as opposed to fuse blowing, assuming it is there and has not been replaced by a nail!

John.

[John Wright]

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You got a bargain. Fitting an alarm to a Stag is quite challenging as there are a number of 'non-standard' wiring issues to be resolved. It has taken me some time to get to grips with mine. I have the Portman (£40 from Maplin) and the instructions are almost impossible to follow. It is an excellent alarm once sorted. I have fitted the central locking as well.

John

[GDPR]

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I just have a CAT1 Cobra system with rolling code immobiliser and dual zone microwave detector - cost me £450 inc fitting, but it's got a stamped fitting certificate for the insurance company, and it has been faultless.

Plus I've got peace of mind

Russ

[John Wright]

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Having a certified alarm is a good idea but rather expensive. The Portman has all the features (e.g. code hopping), but not the certification. Bearing in mind the difficulty of fitting the alarm, your approach makes a lot of sense.

John