Timing chains slap on passenger side only

[Moraystag]

Gent's in process of removing chains. Cover now off and into the guts of them.
What I have found is that the drivers side seems to have no slap in them at all, however the passenger side seems to have a load of slap at the bottom of the chain where it sits in the chain guide.
The puzzling thing is that expected both sides to be stretched instead of just the one side. Does this point to anything in particular??? or is this common.
Do I still go ahead and change both as a matter of course. Kind of seems false saving just to do one side now that I'm there

Mike

[Bob Heritage]

Hi Mike,
It's false economy to change half the chains. How far were the adjusters out? If you have the renold adjuster holders I would keep those and swap new tensioners if required, have a look at the sprocket cogs as well.

[V Mad]

Mike, you can assess total wear by comparing each hydraulic tensoner position, although if the static plates have been reset at any time that may give a false indication. I can't imagine that uneven wear could indicate any other problem with the engine, such as tight camshaft etc as this surely would have failed by now? I have not noticed an uneven wear before, but when you think of it, only one chain (the left hand one) drives the jackshaft so that takes more load doesnt it.

[Moraystag]

Sprocket cogs all in good order, no points or sharp edges The tensioners have Renold stamped on them so may well reuse them. The guides / keeper plates rubber have all got deepish scores on them where the chain has been bighting in.
As you say it makes sense that the left hand chain takes more weight. And that thats the one that I could hear the rattle from even once the car was up to temperature. Used a screw driver on the cam cover front and could here the tell tail rattle, but no pronounced rattle from the right hand side. Tappits seem to be correct clearance but will check again tomorrow as I was bloody freezing come 4 pm this afternoon. Chucking down snow here as we speak

Mike

[flying farmer]

The tensioner should be taking the slack out of the chain if all was well. If it isn't, then there are three main reasons why not, the first is simply that the chain is so worn the tensioner has reached the end of its travel, and is resting on the thin hooked plate behind the tensioner.
The second is that the tiny oilway into the tensioner is blocked and there is no hydraulic pressure to push it out.
The third is that something is wrong with the ratchet mechanism inside the tensioner, and it is pushing back in again
Definately change both chains, and look carefully at the crank sprockets, as these are the ones which wear fastest (half the number of teeth therefore twice the load)
Neil

[Moraystag]

When refitting timing chain cover would it be best to use gasket mastic, or Hylomar, or does it really make no difference.
My concern is how to seal the sump gasket as this seems to be the paper type and would imagine that this area would be the most prone to oil leakage after being disturbed

Mike

[jleyton]

Hi Mike,

Hylomar, Hylomar, Hylomar.

As you'll have gathered, I'm a big fan - other's opinions may differ !

Cheers

Julian

[Moraystag]

OK Julian but will still wait for any other suggestions. Only one thing is that I have used silicon on the water pump gaskets as I thought this would give better mating of gasket to gasket and onto the face of the block??

Mike

[jleyton]

Ok Mike. To be fair, my admiration of Hylomar comes from 30+ years years ago before silicone was used (I think) - even for false boobs

Cheers

Julian

[stag8manod]

Hi. I would go with the Hylomar also 30+ yrs experience. No comment on the silicon, no experience with false boobs, always natural.
Cheers Ian A