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    Vibrating Stag - Ideas?

    One day these questions will stop, but this problem is really frustrating.

    Whilst the Stag runs nicely and makes a lovely noise it does have one issue. Taking the car above 50MPH is near impossible with its vibrations.

    I would say they probably start at around 30-35MPH from the rear when accelerating (slightly vibrating) before sounding and getting more intense at 50MPH. Pushing beyond 50MPH will result with the vibration taking over the car, with it making no difference as to whether the car is under load or not. To play it safe I stick below 50MPH (but of course this puts the car out of action for any long trip or motorways (lorries overtake me...)). Just before 50MPH arrives the diff will also whine. Once the car is warmed up it will also clonk quite a bit when going from drive into reverse or vice versa but it is fine if you go from drive to neutral to drive as well as if you perform the same procedure in reverse. A friend of mine called it the Intercity Stag LOL.

    Compared a knackered inner CV on a driveshaft (I have experienced this twice on a MkIV Escort and a Mk3 Mondeo) I would say the frequency of the vibrations is quite a bit higher. I am sure the vibrations can also be heard (a bit like a train or ferry).

    I have had the wheels checked and rebalanced, the propshaft looks to be brand new and I am told was made by a well renowned prop company near me (www.davemacprops.com). The UJs are in great conditon on the prop. It does have an aluminium toothed disc at the front (for a speedo) which is part of the front of the prop that is spigoted (however it does not come off the front of the prop).

    One thing I will say is that the diff does leak oil via the front diff seal (in between the front nosecone and the front face of the diff), with the diff last time taking around 0.2 litres to bring it to the correct level (with it dripping slightly from the front shortly after I topped it up). The car has also been converted to a ZF 4HP22 auto 'box which has been reconditioned along with the torque converter by www.drivertransmissions.co.uk .

    I was going to take it to Vibration Free (anyone here used them?) before I start testing props and buying other drivetrain components in an effort to locate the problem but what do you think is the issue?
    Last edited by ChasR; 5 April 2012, 18:56.

    #2
    i would look at the front diff extension bearing first as you say your diff is leaking oil, that bearing may be causing your vibration
    then look at where the exhaust comes through the rear subframe arms, the exhaust may be touching the subframe arms

    dave

    Comment


      #3
      When this happens can you hold onto the gear shift (auto or manual) or is that vibrating badly as well? I am not a mechanic but experienced loud and physical vibrations in my second car many years ago, you could not hold the gear stick. It was the propshaft, even though the ujs looked okay they had gone and the propshaft was not alined properly. Six bellhousings later I found out what the problem was but if your diff is leaking you should do as dave says first as it will be cheaper.

      Steve

      Comment


        #4
        You obviously need to get the diff oilseal replaced and the bearing in the extension housing replaced with a decent British made bearing (LD Parts). This will not be a waste of time as it needs doing. Then with little more effort while it is dismantled re-enforce the housing if not already done and get the prop checked for balance.

        Comment


          #5
          I was hoping that would not be said!

          I checked the nosecone and it is still a stock unmodified item (I do however have access to a welder...) and so far it is crack free. Can the nosecone be changed in situ (along with the seal or am I better off dropping the entire subframe (something I would be tempted to avoid). I gather I will need a press to put in the new bearing? (I have access to a pulley puller and a gear puller).

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by ChasR View Post
            I was hoping that would not be said!

            I checked the nosecone and it is still a stock unmodified item (I do however have access to a welder...) and so far it is crack free. Can the nosecone be changed in situ (along with the seal or am I better off dropping the entire subframe (something I would be tempted to avoid). I gather I will need a press to put in the new bearing? (I have access to a pulley puller and a gear puller).
            you can take the front diff extension out without dropping the rear suspension, the bearing is held in place by two circlips one each side

            dave

            Comment


              #7
              No press needed for the quill shaft bearing. It should just tap out - once the circlips holbing it in are removed!

              Rgds

              Dave
              http://www.stagwiki.com | http://parts.stagwiki.com (Under Development)

              Comment


                #8
                ChasR - from my recent experience (slight vibration to serious vibration and complete collapse of rear suspension in a period of 5 minutes) due to diff extension failure - I would replace with a reinforced diff extension / bearing and front seal at the earliest opportunity

                Regards
                Ian

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by StagnJag View Post
                  No press needed for the quill shaft bearing. It should just tap out - once the circlips holbing it in are removed!

                  Rgds

                  Dave




                  Martin.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    holbing - how on earth did I manage that!!! lol.
                    http://www.stagwiki.com | http://parts.stagwiki.com (Under Development)

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by StagnJag View Post
                      holbing - how on earth did I manage that!!! lol.



                      I'm really sorry Dave, I just couldn't resist. M.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Have you thought about wheel balancing.I have re counted this story a couple of times but for your benefit to help if I can..abridged version...

                        I knew a guy once who kept on experiencing vibration and an unusual noise coming from the rear of a car.He eventually tracked it down to a flat spot on one of the rear tyres ( He'd bought part used ones as he didn't do too much mileage on the Isle of Wight,no motorways).I also believe you can develop flat spots if parked in one place for too long..


                        Just a thought

                        Comment


                          #13
                          oChas,

                          I had a similar problem with my TR7, which was caused by an out of ballance prop shaft. I fixed it by fitting two jubliee clips on the shaft next to each other but with the screw 180 degrees apart, then went for a test drives moving one of the clips round a few degrees at a time until the vibration stopped or nearly stopped. It worked for me anyway.

                          Cheers
                          Danny
                          Danny 1972 STAG Mk1 TV8 Auto, 1967 SPITFIRE http://www.grampianstags.net
                          sigpic

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I have been investigating the problem a little more.

                            The tyres I tried to 'cheat' by putting in 40PSI into them (Maximum pressure for 185/70R14s is generally around 45PSI). Bar making the car handle strangely it made no difference to the vibrating. However, the car seems to vibrate less when cold.

                            One thing I have noticed is that the propshaft flange centreline angles are not parralel. But considering the Stag engine is on a 7 degree tilt surely this is an issue with the Clive Tate converted cars and stock Stags too (That I guess I shall not know until I look at such a car).

                            What is more disturbing is the play. With the car cold I have zero driveline shunt when going from drive to reverse. When warm, it appears this 'play' and shunting is present in the diff. Ho hum.

                            Fear not, the quill bearing and seal shall be something I attack next year. *Hopefully* it will cure the vibration...
                            Last edited by ChasR; 8 December 2011, 00:35.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I think I am right in saying that you don't have the Clive Tate conversion, what might help you is that the CT conversion uses a standard BW65 prop.

                              Comment

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