Greetings from a slightly overwhelmed new Stag owner

[stephan]

Hello all. I just took possession of a 1971 Stag, and I'd like to make it roadworthy enough to drive to work every day. Here's what I've learned about it so far:

It was originally a saffron car with manual transmission, that currently has a V6 and automatic of unknown origin (probably Buick) and seems to have been painted a lighter shade of butter yellow. I was drawn to the car due to the lack of rust, good body and interior condition, and low price. It has the wire wheels with octagonal centers, and a damaged hard top.

The worst issue is that at about 25 miles per hour, there's a very violent side-to-side shake in the steering accompanied by an awful noise. The person following behind me said they could actually see the left front wheel begin to shake.

Has anyone here experienced something similar?

[StagnJag]

Hi Stephan, Welcome to the Forum. A font of Stag related knowledge on here.

I am, but a (very) amateur mechanic, but I'll give your problem a go!


There are lots of things that can cause this.

Buckled wheel
Really old, out of shape tyres,
Wheel Bearings,
failing stub axle.
Brake problems - Sticking brake pads, buckled disk
Worn lower ball joint.

Out of that list I would check the lower ball joint and the wheel bearings first.

All easily fixed though, but I would suggest you avoid driving it until it is fixed if it is, as you say 'Violent'.

There are people on here who use their Stags as a daily driver so it is entirely possible.

Rgds

Dave

[StagnJag]

Just re-read your question. I would also check for any play in the splines of the wire wheels and the attachment of the splined bit of the hub to the car.

[brian0443]

Welcome to the Forum Stephan.
First check whether the problem is with the wheel, tire, etc. Fit the spare wheel or move your wheel to another position and see if the problem moves with it.
Brian

[stagmuffin]

welcome stephan, is dave said try and refrain from driving hard thing to do with a stag!
whatever is causing this and it could be a multitude of things im sure when you jack it up and check see spin the wheel and rock it about side to side the fault will become clearly evident ,get a few pics up and ask when you get down to it .
steve

[stephan]

Thanks for the thoughtful replies! I wouldn't dare drive it in the current state; it's safely stored in a friend's garage where I'll be able to work on it.

I'll also need new vinyl for the top (all I got was a frame) and the hardtop is bent out of shape (apparently someone forgot to latch it and it fell off), so it will have to stay there anyway just to keep dry until I get one of those fixed.

The shake is on and off like a switch--meaning it starts very abruptly if I let the car gather too much speed, then goes away completely when I slow it down. "Wheel bearing" was my first thought, but I'll admit that it's pretty early to start guessing.

Also, it didn't come with a spanner for the wheel spinners, so I'll need to find something in the local shops just to get started.

[jleyton]

Hi Stephan,

First of all, welcome to the forum.

I had a similar thing and it turned out to be lower ball joint. However it didn't show up when the ball joint was off the car of even by just shaking the wheel. However the MOT test centre have a device that shakes the wheel under load and the wear showed up then. A new ball joint totally transformed it.

Having said that, wire wheels always ring alarm bells to me.

Good luck with your search.

Cheers

Julian

[Stevekid1]

Whilst it could be one or a combination of the items StagnJag suggests, I'll lay odds that the splines in the wire wheels have worn. I had exactly the same thing when I got my car and it was particularly bad when going round roundabouts. I replaced the entire front suspension, ball joints and brakes and it actually made things worse. I then got hold off a set of alloys and the car was transformed. I would not trust the wires unless you know they are new.

Steve

[StagnJag]

I could be wrong, but I think wire wheels were pretty much standard fitment to US Spec Stags so finding Stag Alloys to replace them with might not be so easy.

[404ROD]

Wire wheels look very nice but they do need attention every so often. The tension of the spokes alters with time and use which puts the wheel out of true. They need to be re-tensioned periodically. Its not an exercise to do yourself as you need the proper equipment to check the alignment. I have memories of doing this with my bicycle wheels years ago using a special key for altering the tension of the spokes. Not quite in the same league as car wire wheels but the same principal.

Rod

[elvimto]

Hi Stephan,
If the wire wheels are bad and need replaced then its Daytons for $ 350 a wheel or if you want to go to alloy its about $150 ish per wheel. Money any way you go. You can buy a wheel spanner from Triumph Roadster factory look them up in the book as they used to say.

cheers Stuart

[stephan]

Thanks again for the ideas and words of encouragement.

I still haven't had time to work on it, but the last time I "visited" the car I noticed that the front wheels don't line up at all. With the left front wheel perfectly straight the right side is turned several degrees to the right.

[martin]

Thanks again for the ideas and words of encouragement.

I still haven't had time to work on it, but the last time I "visited" the car I noticed that the front wheels don't line up at all. With the left front wheel perfectly straight the right side is turned several degrees to the right.

Hi Stephan, that's just the tracking, it's adjustable by someone with a tracking gauge, most tyre shops and garages in UK do it, I imagine it's the same in the US. Martin.

[V Mad]

Stephan, front wheel alignment sounds way out. You can reset them approximately yourself. Just undo the lock nut on the track rod end, remove the outer gaiter clip, then you can turn the track rod to adjust the alignment. Use a piece of string along the wheel centres from back to front to check that they are parallel. The front ones should 'toe in' slightly.

[stephan]

There's some play in the passenger side wheel bearing, but the main culprit was an improperly installed driver side ball joint:



The nut was tightened down to the stripped area of the stud, leaving it free to wobble around (and rub against the brake rotor every time I turned right).