electric window and another problem

[deanoed]

hello everyone ive just replaced my wiper motor and in the process was swapping wiper relays and checking wires ect thats now finished and working ok but today i thought i would take it for a spin and noticed the windows dont work,(never had a problem before) so before i get the wiring diagram out (again) is there a fuse? or a circuit breaker if not wheres the best place to start looking.i also broke down today it was running fine but then stalled when i stopped in traffic it restarted but i had to keep the revs going(fuel pump clicking normaly) then it died it was turning over but not firing i pulled the petrol pipe off and got covered in fuel and it was delivering fuel ok tried to restart but nothing i then checked everything else dizzy cap off all looked ok i then loosened the carb damper plungers and pushed them up and down left them loose and turned it over and it started first time??? ( have recently fitted new seals to stop plunger oil disapearing) so was able to get her home sitting at a set of lights i heard the fuel pump start clicking really fast and thought hear we go but nothing happened and it went back to clicking normal,ive recently fitted a new ld parts pump and sender unit i also removed the tank and made sure the pickup pipe was ok then put it back and theres no signs of any fuel coming out of the overflows and i just put fuel in ...any ideas.....dean

[martin]

Hi Dean, if it happens again, and won't start after churning, have a quick look in the air filter, that can flood out if she's over fuelling. There is a window lift circuit breaker but I can't remember where it is, sorry. Martin.

[milothedog]

Dean,

I think it probably flooded due to a needle valve probably, didn't one play up before. Leaving the dash pot plungers loose would let the pistons lift easier and the extra air it could get probably was enough to get it running again. did it chuck out a load of black smoke when it started.

The window thermal trip is on the Relay board. which what I meant when I put fuse board on this post and as corrected by Stag-phil

Ian.

[deanoed]

At work so can't look is it a button?

[milothedog]

No it's a small black thermal type, but you may have dislodged something when you did the wiper delay unit.

[stag-phil]

Hi Dean

The window circuit breaker is on the relay board which is located below the back of the fuse board (inside the car). You will need to remove the passenger parcel shelf to get a good look at it.

It is a small thin oblong device with a couple of spade connectors at the bottom.

There is no reset switch, if it has failed it will need to be replaced.

As a temporary measure and only as a means of testing, connect the two cables together ideally through a fuse.

With the cables connected together, if the windows start to work again then you will know that the circuit breaker is at fault.

Don’t leave the cables connected together, if there is any stain on the window motor without the circuit breaker breaking the circuit it is likely the cable will overheat and melt.

Phil

[deanoed]

Thanks everyone.. Phil that's exactly what I needed I'll give it a go.thanks....dean

[stag-phil]

Hi Dean

Here is a link to Rimmers website showing the circuit breaker: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005358

I have made up a simple by-pass by. Two short lengths of cable, each with a small male spade connector on one end and on the other end a female connector. To the female connectors I fitted a modern type spade fuse. It means if the circuit breaker fails I can substitute the fuse to keep the windows working and without fear that the circuit will be overloaded.

Hopefully you will find a lose connection but let us know how you get on.

Phil

[deanoed]

Thanks Phil I'll check later and let you know...dean

[deanoed]

found out what was wrong windows now work it turned out to be the relay as luck has it the heated rear screen uses the same type so i just swapped the wires over so the heated rear screen now has the dud relay for now...

[stag-phil]

found out what was wrong windows now work it turned out to be the relay as luck has it the heated rear screen uses the same type so i just swapped the wires over so the heated rear screen now has the dud relay for now...

That was a good result, useful to know that the two relays are the same.

As a matter of interest, is your heater still working as I think the heated window relay is shared with the heater?

Even so it is worth knowing there is a simple work around to get the windows operating, especially when trying to exit a ticket operated car park.

Phil

[john 4d]

I've just found this thread searching for probable causes why my windows have stopped working, please have a look at the attached photo and tell me where I can find the window lift circuit breaker. My relay board seems to be different to the Rimmers diagram referred to earlier in the thread, the Rimmers indicate the window relay to be top left mine according to the wiring colours is centre bottom. It's hard to see from the photo and I can't confirm at the moment, but I think I can make out a couple of plastic female spade connector insulators just to the left of the afore mentioned centre relay, then again there are a couple of grey wires heading off in the one o'clock direction which might be connected to the grey rectangular block laying beneath the top right relay, is this where the breaker should be? I've never seen it and wonder how my windows have worked in the past! Its no good I'm going to have to once again strip out the parcel shelf and have a proper look around. I think I'll try the swapping rear heater relay option as its surplus to requirements (the heater blower may be affected I know).
John.relay board.jpg

[nib]

I've just found this thread searching for probable causes why my windows have stopped working, please have a look at the attached photo and tell me where I can find the window lift circuit breaker. My relay board seems to be different to the Rimmers diagram referred to earlier in the thread, the Rimmers indicate the window relay to be top left mine according to the wiring colours is centre bottom. It's hard to see from the photo and I can't confirm at the moment, but I think I can make out a couple of plastic female spade connector insulators just to the left of the afore mentioned centre relay, then again there are a couple of grey wires heading off in the one o'clock direction which might be connected to the grey rectangular block laying beneath the top right relay, is this where the breaker should be? I've never seen it and wonder how my windows have worked in the past! Its no good I'm going to have to once again strip out the parcel shelf and have a proper look around. I think I'll try the swapping rear heater relay option as its surplus to requirements (the heater blower may be affected I know).
John.[ATTACH=CONFIG]14148[/ATTACH]

John part number 151244 http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005358 which I think is the same as used on the pop-up headlights on a TR7,its only like an inline fuse so worth using an i/f at least untill you sort the problem otherwise it will cost a few bob in circuit breakers.Try changing over the up/down switch to see if thats the problem,was on a previous stag of mine and kept causing the circuit breaker to blow.
Mark

[Duncan Skye]

Hi dean,

Here's the layout on my car, with the relays and window lift motor breaker identified. The breaker is the dinky little white thing, partly covered in black tape and shaped like a small ''Victory V' lozenge. Remember those?

ds_Relay Board 1.jpg


With best wishes,
Duncan, Skye

[deanoed]

That was a good result, useful to know that the two relays are the same.

As a matter of interest, is your heater still working as I think the heated window relay is shared with the heater?

Even so it is worth knowing there is a simple work around to get the windows operating, especially when trying to exit a ticket operated car park.

Phil

hello phil just noticed your post as it came back to the top your right the other relay does the horn and heater only noticed it when i was taking it to have a rear crankseal done (thanks again ian) it still leaks but think it must be the sump