Hi can anyone tell what i should do before i try to start my stag up its been sitting in a corn barn for 20 years. thanks sorry correcting my spelling mistakes
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I'd say no real difference to any other engine. Change the oil and filter- bad idea to try and start it with old oil, flush the coolant (maybe optional for initial start-up), remove the plugs, get some lubricant into the bores, you'll need to get fresh fuel into the car, and drain the carbs to make sure you've got good fuel and check the pump works, i'd change the fuel filter too, make sure it turns over manually a few rotations, if so turn it over on the starter, check you've got spark, do a compression test - if you don't have any there's not much point in trying to start it. If you've got good fuel and spark there's a fighting chance it will run.
You often hear stories of people just throwing in a battery and the engine firing up but the potential to do more damage by doing this is not worth the risk.
Hopefully others may pick up anything I've missed.
NickNick
72 Federal Stag. TV8, RHD & MOD Conversions. -
After doing all the regular stuff that Nick's mentioned, I'd recommend operating the oil pump externally before trying to start the car.
Remove the distributor and you expose the end of the hexagonal oil pump drive shaft. With a socket (can't remember the size I'm afraid) on the end of an extension shaft in a battery drill, you turn this shaft and prime the pump and get oil everywhere that it should go when the engine's running, and up to pressure, but with none of the important bits actually moving.
Cheers
JulianComment
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Probably similar to starting the engine after 28 years !!
The answer isn't 42, it's 1/137Comment
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Good advice here.
One other thing... after oil pressure has been built up as J.Leyton suggests, turn the engine on the key without fuel (pull up the inertia switch button) and without spark plugs but with coolant topped right up.
Any coolant leaks at this stage will need attending to before going further.
Please let us know how you get on.Comment
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Don't forget if you do use a drill on the oil pump which is a good idea it rotates anti clock
Cheers steveComment
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I would also be inclined to run a borescope down each plug hole to check for the remains of an inlet manifold coolant leak..... Arbman Al will tell you all about that one IIRC......Comment
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After 16 years in a dry garage my engine had crusty remnants of cooling liquid/alloy head in the top of the bores,it's well worth looking beyond the plugs with the aformensioned borescope.
Andrew.Comment
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This is what mine looked like after 20 years storage:Originally posted by kryten View Post
2008_0531_inlet_manifold_0005.JPG
2008_0810_heads1.JPG
2008_0810_piston.bore1.JPG
No borsecope though, must have been someone else....
Al.Comment
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Is that the engine in you car now Al? you did well to get it back up to scratch if it is.
Cheers SteveComment
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Al.
If no boroscope you could try a sigmoidoscope.
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The heads are, but the block had already been bored to the max, so got another from Favershams.Originally posted by Stagdad View Post
Al.Comment
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Originally posted by KOY 23 View PostAl.
If no boroscope you could try a sigmoidoscope.
Had to google that one...
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Sigmoidoscope is an evil device.....
I have a borescope with a 9mm head diameter and built in leds bought primarily to inspect combustion chambers and timing chains and gears......
It has other uses though John.... finding lost gerbils...
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Funny place to lose your pets.Originally posted by kryten View PostSigmoidoscope is an evil device.....
I have a borescope with a 9mm head diameter and built in leds bought primarily to inspect combustion chambers and timing chains and gears......
It has other uses though John.... finding lost gerbils...
Advantage of the boroscope is you don't need to wash your hands afterwards.Comment
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