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Start to loosen them with a hex socket, not a 16 point or an open ender, you can go back to that when they're loose. I've fitted stainless back and front. Can't recall the size but by now that's probably irrelevant, search you kit for the closest fit you can find, I think 7 mm is an equivalent. Slave cylinders are cheap enough if they break. Good luck, Martin.
Cheers Martin. I know they are awkward to get to with a tube on for bleeding. Not sure why they cant be the same size as the front calipers as it would life easier.
Cheers Richard. Thanks Richard. My cylinders are only about 4 years old so should undo easily. I am using an Eezibleed so want to have full control when opening and closing the nipple.
A trick I was shown years ago was to give the caliper a good heavy tap or two with a hammer close to the nipple prior to slacking and after soaking with release oil, it works most of the time for me.
Danny
Danny 1972 STAG Mk1 TV8 Auto, 1967 SPITFIRE http://www.grampianstags.net
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Thanks Danny, will remember that. I shouldn't have a problem getting all the nipples undone, it's just awkward doing the back ones.
I am also going to take the pads out of the calipers, slide two thinner pieces of wood in place of the pads and then press the pedal so the pistons come out more and at that stag, being that I run on silicone, I am going to slightly lubricate the pistons and then push them back in and replace the pads. I am going to do this so that I know the pistons are lubricated and moving with ease.
Update.Spent all weekend going over the brakes and looking forward to road testing it. I replaced the hand brake lever arms so that I could set up the handbrake a bit better. Upon removing the rear wheels and with handbrake disconnected, I noticed that both drums dragged when turning by hand. To the point that the offside one needed a rubber hammer to remove. I removed all brake shoes and springs etc and cleaned everything up and gave it all a light oiling. Teeth on the adjusters look good. Fitted everything back together, and as DJT suggested a while back, make sure the handbrake lever arm is as close as it can be to the drum back plate, then press the pedal. I did this and both sides clicked a number of times. Now the brake drums turn really easily and handbrake locks on OK. The reason why I am telling you all this is that I have always used, but can’t find an image of it, a special tool that you insert through one of the large holes in the drum and it hooks behind the adjuster and when pulled you get more clicks. In others words, takes up a little more clearance. I am now wondering if the drum was 'over adjusted' and would appreciate any feedback as to whether this is possible on our set up? If so, it could explain a slight vibration under acceleration at low speeds. CheersAndrew
Hi MikeI used a 1/4 ring / open ended spanner and with the handbrake cable off, there was just enough access and fortunately it undid easily. Thanks for the offer anyway.
Well done - glad all acomplished as it is a bugger to get anything in there and turn - I make a point of wipping the nipple out quickly & putting some grease on it (so to speak.....) to make for ease of loosening next time.
Martin.
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