Where do I start? :(

[RayR]

Hi all

Had a full professional engine rebuild back in 2006 but unfortunately not had much time on the road since then...only 500 miles or so added. Heads have been retorqued by the specialist per post run-in

Last started a year or so back then the battery failed. New batttery arrived yesterday, now engine fires but will not continue to run unless I keep the starter motor turning which I realise will only cause damage..... After a burst of life, which fills u with hope the engine just dies, and will do so continually each time cranked. Not convinced all cylinders are firing.

Carbs were also rebuilt and are getting fuel.... spark is good.

Engine ran fine last time used .... ideas re what may be the cause after a long period of inactivity.... or best order for process of elimination would be gratefully received...thanks in advance

RayR

[milothedog]

Hi all

Had a full professional engine rebuild back in 2006 but unfortunately not had much time on the road since then...only 500 miles or so added. Heads have been retorqued by the specialist per post run-in

Last started a year or so back then the battery failed. New batttery arrived yesterday, now engine fires but will not continue to run unless I keep the starter motor turning which I realise will only cause damage..... After a burst of life, which fills u with hope the engine just dies, and will do so continually each time cranked. Not convinced all cylinders are firing.

Carbs were also rebuilt and are getting fuel.... spark is good.

Engine ran fine last time used .... ideas re what may be the cause after a long period of inactivity.... or best order for process of elimination would be gratefully received...thanks in advance

RayR

Hi Ray, the first thing to do is ensure you have fresh Petrol, old fuel can cause a lot of problems in your situation.

Ian

[Bob Heritage]

I had that on a Transit once, it was a faulty ballast resistor.

[martin]

Hiya Ray, welcome aboard, it could well be nothing more complex than your old petrol, a year's quite a long time. Make sure the pump is ticking, and try fresh, you may be surprised. Martin.

[RayR]

Thanks gents. Had an empty tank so topped up with fresh gallon so think it was fresh but will make sure by flushing through. Will also check ballast resistor, is there an easy way to test it?

[milothedog]

if you think that may be the problem you could put 12 volts to the coil and bypass it.

Ian.

[nib]

Wire come off the ballast resistor perhaps?

[RayR]

Cheers, will certainly check this out first thing and try the suggested bypass

[richardthestag]

Shows all symptoms of a disconnect / failed 6v ballasted supply to the coil

The coil takes 12v from starter solenoid when the ignition is switched to the start position. As soon as you let go of the key and it springs back to normal position the feed will stop from the starter solenoid and then take its power from in line ballast wire (white / pink) / or the seperate ballast resistor resistor.

Don't run your 6v coil for long on 12v supply from battery, it will get very hot and you will trash the rotor and dizzy cap (I have the t-shirt) but it will prove that you have an ballast resistor supply issue

[RayR]

Cheers guys and thanks for the detail Richard. I never paid any attention to what the ballast resistor does but now understand how it functions...all makes sense and I am feeling pretty hopeful. Will post outcome tommow.

[Bob Heritage]

I see in the articles for sale that your starter motor 'clicks' or sticks, this could be a result of only having 6volts to the starter.

[RayR]

Thanks Bob. Do u mean just 6v to the solenoid which then connects 12v direct to the motor?

[Pete]

Shows all symptoms of a disconnect / failed 6v ballasted supply to the coil

The coil takes 12v from starter solenoid when the ignition is switched to the start position. As soon as you let go of the key and it springs back to normal position the feed will stop from the starter solenoid and then take its power from in line ballast wire (white / pink) / or the seperate ballast resistor resistor.

Don't run your 6v coil for long on 12v supply from battery, it will get very hot and you will trash the rotor and dizzy cap (I have the t-shirt) but it will prove that you have an ballast resistor supply issue

Could it be some dirt or tarnished connections with respect to the ballast and or its feed. If the car has been idle, especially in damp conditions, connections can tarnish quite easily. Use switch cleaner, not WD40.

[Westfaling]

Ray
Just check what voltage you get at the coil with the ignition on. As mentioned when cranking the starter the ignition switch supplies 12V direct to the coil. Extra umph to help starting. . When you let go of the key a second power feed to the coil (through a ballast resistor) provides only 6V to the coil. It sounds like this feed may not be working.
Nick

[V Mad]

As Nick says, check the voltage to the coil POS (+). This is the quickest check. This should be at least 6 volts (12 volts if the points are open, and 6 volts if the points are closed). If you have electronic ignition the voltage will probably measure 12 volts.


To eliminate the uncertainty, short the coil NEG (-) to chassis then measure coil POS voltage: it should be about 6 volts.